Factory insulation vs. Dynamat, etc.

[dibbons]

These aftermarket insulation products with the aluminum facing seem to be only about 1/16 inch thick. My Mopar factory stuff must be at least 1/2 inch think, maybe more. My question is: which in the long run is superior? I am ready to reinstall a dash frame and have been debating whether to replace the 45 year old yellow factory insulation (what is that stuff anyway, fiberglass maybe?) with an after market product. I would think the thicker (factory) the better.

 

[67Dart273]

That dyno / look alike stuff is not actually very good insulation. More sound deadening. I took it you meant heat. I did buy a product called various names, "rattle trap."

 

[Martythetrimmer]

I've been a car upholsterer for 40 years...I've not seen anything better than Dynamat....factory sound deadening works by muffling the sound while Dynamat stops the panel from resinating and acting as an amplifier, then you need an absorbing layer like underlay over top of that...it takes several different layers to truly deaden the sound, it's a case of how far do you want to go....I sound proofed a 1938 Hudson, the trunk lid was like tapping an empty 44 gal drum, Dynamat over about 75% of the lid, it was then like tapping a solid timber table!! beware of some of the cheaper imitations of Dynamat, just finished a Fairlane where the guy used a cheapy in the trunk....it was already lifting off...some things are expensive for a reason!!

 

[halifaxhops]

I have been using this available at Home Depot in the roofing area. Sticky as hell, way lower price than dyna mat and it is in a roll for long strips. Works fantastic for sound deadening. I have it on the floor of my dart and all over a pickup cab, works great, no smell when it gets hot either. Around 25 for a roll. Not sure how many feet I think 25' x 6"

 

[rednesss]

I've been a car upholsterer for 40 years...I've not seen anything better than Dynamat....factory sound deadening works by muffling the sound while Dynamat stops the panel from resinating and acting as an amplifier, then you need an absorbing layer like underlay over top of that...it takes several different layers to truly deaden the sound, it's a case of how far do you want to go....I sound proofed a 1938 Hudson, the trunk lid was like tapping an empty 44 gal drum, Dynamat over about 75% of the lid, it was then like tapping a solid timber table!! beware of some of the cheaper imitations of Dynamat, just finished a Fairlane where the guy used a cheapy in the trunk....it was already lifting off...some things are expensive for a reason!!

I have heard tell, that what you want is "dynamat", then a layer of closed cell foam about 1/8" as a decoupler and then mass loaded vinyl (MLV) over that.

 

[MopaR&D]

I have been using this available at Home Depot in the roofing area. Sticky as hell, way lower price than dyna mat and it is in a roll for long strips. Works fantastic for sound deadening. I have it on the floor of my dart and all over a pickup cab, works great, no smell when it gets hot either. Around 25 for a roll. Not sure how many feet I think 25' x 6"

I put that exact same stuff over the inside of the roof of my Duster since it has no headliner. Just like Martythetrimmer described it used to make a loud hollow 'boom' sound when tapping on the roof now it's a much quieter 'thunk' sound. The craziest part is how well it insulates heat on hot sunny days, used to be a killer in the summertime now you can sit parked in 90* heat in direct sun and it stays nice and cool inside. No peeling either I made sure the bare surface was clean and applied the sheets with a small paint roller to press it on there tight and work out any air bubbles. Also goes on better the warmer it is outside so the asphalt backing is more pliable and sticky.

I would think a combination of the thin sticky aluminum stuff as the bottom layer then the thicker fiberglass-type insulation on top of that would work best on other parts of the car (floor etc.). I do intend to apply that roofing stuff to sections of the car at a time I think next will be the rear wheelhouses and the panel that goes between the back seat and trunk (mine is missing altogether), then probably the doors since those don't have panels either lol. Either way putting down some Dynamat or whatever kind of sticky aluminum foil stuff will make a big difference.

 

[MrJLR]

I've been a car upholsterer for 40 years...I've not seen anything better than Dynamat....factory sound deadening works by muffling the sound while Dynamat stops the panel from resinating and acting as an amplifier, then you need an absorbing layer like underlay over top of that...it takes several different layers to truly deaden the sound, it's a case of how far do you want to go....I sound proofed a 1938 Hudson, the trunk lid was like tapping an empty 44 gal drum, Dynamat over about 75% of the lid, it was then like tapping a solid timber table!! beware of some of the cheaper imitations of Dynamat, just finished a Fairlane where the guy used a cheapy in the trunk....it was already lifting off...some things are expensive for a reason!!

I agree completely. .....Dynomat all the way...and not the cheap imitation stuff.

it's a ton of labor to strip the interior, Dynomat and reinstall everything. Use the best materials the first time.

I put Dynomat all over in my Stingray - WOW what a difference.
I used 2 full boxes...lol !