I kind of wonder if the new repops aren't quite the correct size.
Factory style hose clamps
- Thread starter MoparMike1974
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I’ve saved a bunch of them from years ago so hoping they’ll work just fine on my 65 (and 47!).
Just for clairity the corbin clamp is the flat spring clamp or the wire clamp?
Wire clamp used by Chrysler for years!
Imho if you bought a kit 1/2 of the clamps are too big. See my post above and link in same post.
coffeedart67
Well-Known Member
I tried the wire clamps on my 67 273, the bypass hose wouldn't seal. I found some hoses are thinner wall than some. So I switched to screw clamps.
Yea, the kits need to be remade to reflect the hoses availabld today. I have clamps the right size for the by-pass pm me if you want two
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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This is just one more reason I run 7 psi in my system.
If your mechanical-fan cooling system works the way it was engineered to, 7 is all you need.
If you engineered your cooling system to run electrics; well, you're on your own.
>Screw-clamps loosen as the hose ages so you have to keep after them. And in high-pressure systems, eventually the edges will dig into and cut the hose under them. Band-clamps have softer edges, and the wire-clamps are even more gentle on the hoses.
>Personally, I like the flat-band clamps. I have had the least amount of troubles with them.
If your mechanical-fan cooling system works the way it was engineered to, 7 is all you need.
If you engineered your cooling system to run electrics; well, you're on your own.
>Screw-clamps loosen as the hose ages so you have to keep after them. And in high-pressure systems, eventually the edges will dig into and cut the hose under them. Band-clamps have softer edges, and the wire-clamps are even more gentle on the hoses.
>Personally, I like the flat-band clamps. I have had the least amount of troubles with them.
The ones that Chrysler used for years are the Mubea hose clamps... I haven't seen them in aftermarket parts stores, they were bought directly from Mubea by Chrysler.... You have to get the proper size for the hose that you are using...
Mubea - Products & Technologies - Industry - Products - Spring Band Clamps
Mubea - Products & Technologies - Aftermarket - Products - Spring Band Clamps
This gives the specifications for open and closed diameter...
Mubea - Products & Technologies - Automotive - Engine - Spring Band Clamps - Characteristics and Construction - Significant Parameters - Hose Clamp
Should add the link to your wrtite up.
I solved that problem, changed all the clamps. No more leaks.
Dodge73Dart
1973 Dodge Dart Sport restoration
Okay here is my 2 cents worth.
Unless you are attempt to keep with a totally original look go with the airplane style hose clamps with the screw tightening. Buy good stainless ones.
If your looking for a oem clamp use some good permayex sealer on the part them slide the hose on and move the clamp onto position. I let it set overnight dry them add coolant. Have never had a leak.
So to review: use the screw type which are easier to tighten and loosen unless going totally oem show car. Form a Gaskets also has a brown color gasket sealer that works good too but you will have to split the hose to remove it in the future.
Hope this all helps.
When I restored my 69 'cuda 440 back to original condition I wanted it just as it rolled off of the assembly line. I put black silicone RTV on the inside tip of each hose (about one inch) before putting them on the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, etc. then installed the clamps. Give it time for the silicone to dry before starting the engine. I never had a leak in 20 years now.
I've read quite a few posts where people say that new hoses are slightly thinner then the originals. This would make the factory style clamps a little big for the application. It was recommended to me, by someone who restores lots of cars, to apply some weather strip adhesive to the hoses before installing the clamps.
I really like that idea of installing heat shrink tubing over the gear type clamps. That really looks good!
I really like that idea of installing heat shrink tubing over the gear type clamps. That really looks good!
It's an expensive route to take but whenever I have been having trouble with hoses sealing I have been going industrial and using stainless T-bolt clamps with the nylock nut after using the aforementioned silicone, no failures as of yet...
fintastic57
Member
fintastic57
Member
Most modern hose has a slightly smaller O.D and corbin clamps will not hold, especially on bypass hose. ask me how I know.
PistolGrip
Well-Known Member
I agree 100% with your opinion on worm clamps. I've spent 1/2 of my life trying to sneak by with cheaper stuff - and still do on some things (I'm hard-headed), but I quit buying cheap Chinese worm clamps YEARS ago. When tightened, the threads strip & coolant leaks out on the top of your engine - then you've got slippery a mess on the garage floor......or worse, you're pulled over on the berm of I-75 90 miles from home with a steam cloud that smells like trouble coming from under your hood. We all know that smell.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Its the smell of defeat. Duct tape UP!
Col_Steve
Well-Known Member
I still use the corbin's when I have the right size on hand. Clean and dry inside of hose, apply a thin layer of Permatex # 2A to interior of hose, lubricate the outside of hose where the clamp will be with Sil-Glyde grease so the clamp can relax into the rubber without friction. Install hose and slide clamp in place. Never had one leak on new or old hoses. The hoses CAN be removed later because #2A doesn't harden, it just gets thick like chewing gum, easier yet if the hose is still warm. This process was taught at Chrysler Tech back in the 70's, perhaps earlier before I started wrenching at the dealerships.
Bwahahaha! Been there myself more than once during the learning curve of my mid seventies Dodge truck habit, lolol!
Larry Monk
New Member
I had many leaks on my 273 using corbin clamps, then was told to try Black RTV on the inside of hose ,not to thick, and let it sit for a while to firm up then install the clamp, it works.
I haven’t tried it myself, but years back copper head gasketed aluminum engines could only be reliably sealed using a thin layer of hylomar blue, it may also be a good option for hoses because it doesn’t completely harden. Developed by Rolls Royce for aircraft engines, it is almost “otherworldly” in its physical properties.
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