Factory undercoating removal

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niceolddart

niceolddart

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I need to remove the factory undercoating on my car (73 Duster) & was wondering what a good/better way to do it is? Heat gun & scraper? Chemical to soften it for scraping off? Wire wheel/brush? I did this years ago on a 63 330 wagon I had & was a very long & tedious job scraping it off. Now I must do it 30 years layer & on the ground. (No access to a lift) I know it's a long messy job, but time is not a concern, just wanted to see if anyone here found a more efficient way of doing it. Also, can someone recommend a GOOD undercoating to replace what I remove, that is as good as the factory stuff? Thanks all.
 
I couldn't get a heat gun to touch mine. I had to use a propane torch.
 
I used a torch and scraper, followed up with Goo Gone and steel wool, finally a pass with brake clean and many rags. It was a total pain in the ***. What helped me (mentally at least) was splitting the job into smaller sections.

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mopowers said:
I used a torch and scraper, followed up with Goo Gone and steel wool, finally a pass with brake clean and many rags. It was a total pain in the ***. What helped me (mentally at least) was splitting the job into smaller sections.

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"Mentally" ......HA! You got that right! A good stiff shot of Fireball when I got done helped me. lol
 
I did mine with a HF mini needle scaler. It also worked in the inside rear quarters/trunk without any damage to metal in my 66.

Started with a oscillating tool and scraper blades which worked very well too until I wore it out (it was a well used HF tool too).
 
Want to do the same to my car this winter, from what I read torch and scraper unfortunately.
 
I didn't wear one, but I've read that it's a good idea to use a respirator regardless of what method you use. Apparently, this stuff if pretty nasty (maybe asbestos)?? I read that after I did mine, Haha!
 
This is what I use. Blast it with heat then scrapes right off. Do small sections at a time, around 12 x 12". Do not heat areas that do not have undercoating or you will warp the metal. You dont want to melt the undercoating, just heat it enough that it scrapes off.....doesnt take much.
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I had my car on a rotiserie when I did it and it was outside. You will need some ventilation if working indoors.
 
Time consuming job however you get it off. I use a needle scaler for the bulk of it.
 
heat gun, stiff plastic scraper followed by wire wheel on a drill and angle grinder (get into different places).

Last one I did was this 70 Dart GT (modified to take an A500 overdrive 4 speed auto)

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A friend of mine said to leave the car outside when its -25C then hit the panel with a hammer :)
I'll probably go with the needle scaler (noisy sob) and wire wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder.
 
Needle scaler will take it off fast. Will leave tiny dimples in the metal so if doing a high end rare car likely not a good choice. For the rest of us nobody will notice.
 
I know you said you don't have access to a lift but when I did my 67 GT I put it on lift and used my steam cleaner to blast it off. Still was a nasty job but the factory Zinc coating wasn't damaged. I used bed liner to go back on, Joe
 
Frank Mopar said:
No reason to take it off.
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I need to remove the undercoating in some spots that I have to do
metal/rust repair, like lower 1/4s & outer fender wells etc. so I can get a good weld. I will look at needle scalers, I never thought about using one of those. I do have a heat gun that has 2 settings & gets pretty hot on setting 2. I'll give that a try. I was thinking bed liner spray to replace what I remove too. Thanks for all the good advice, I knew I would get it here.
 
I used a mini needle scaler. I heard somewhere that somebody used dry ice and then a needle scaler.
 
niceolddart said:
I need to remove the undercoating in some spots that I have to do
metal/rust repair, like lower 1/4s & outer fender wells etc. so I can get a good weld. I will look at needle scalers, I never thought about using one of those. I do have a heat gun that has 2 settings & gets pretty hot on setting 2. I'll give that a try. I was thinking bed liner spray to replace what I remove too. Thanks for all the good advice, I knew I would get it here.
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I did 3 cars with heat before the scaler. I’m not exaggerating I had the Valiant stripped of undercoating in less less time and with much less cleanup than heat. It was easily 10x faster.
 
Jim Kueneman said:
Needle scaler will take it off fast. Will leave tiny dimples in the metal so if doing a high end rare car likely not a good choice. For the rest of us nobody will notice.
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I vote needle scaler. I am old, and woreout.. and NOT going to be under a car again removing any undercoat again. I have 2, 1 brand new. I will make anyone a good deal on them!!!
 
Propane torch and a scraper all the way. Goo Gone citrus cleaner will help clean the adhesive residue afterwards.

If it was me, I wouldn't re-apply undercoating after going through the effort of removing it. I'd suggest a truck bedliner product like Raptor Liner or Lizzard Skin which you can thin out and/or tint with color if desired. I used thinned-out Raptor Liner on the wheel wells of my Duster. Go to post #304 in my build thread you can see how it all went. Great Pumpkin

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The guy said " I really hate it when lying under my old Mopar removing undercoat with the propane torch and putty knife, and some falls on my ole bald head!!!" :BangHead:
:poke:
 
has anyone tried a product called "Aircraft Paint stripper" It may help when you get down to the small remaining undercoat in the nooks and corner areas etc.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
has anyone tried a product called "Aircraft Paint stripper" It may help when you get down to the small remaining undercoat in the nooks and corner areas etc.
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The EPA clamped down on them 2-3 years ago because a couple of people died of the fumes because they could not follow warning labels. Their families went after them and got the govt to regulate the chemicals that made it work so well. The new formula is junk. Don’t waste your time with it. If all you have access to is the commercial stuff.
 
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