Fan Shroud Restoration

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DartDave73

DartDave73

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Here's a question that I hope someone might have a solution to.

I have an old fan shroud that is faded and oxidized. I've cleaned it with 30% vinegar to get some of the oxidation off, but it's still that chalky grey color. Not as bad as when I started, but still looks bad. I've tried using Mothers Back to Black Trim & Plastic Restorer, but as soon as that stuff dissipates, it's back to where it was. Even tried scuffing that stuff in with some 2000 grit sandpaper and it does nothing.

I've read on the internet all sorts of fixes from peanut butter to petroleum jelly. There's also a thing going around on the intertoobs about using a heat gun to pull the oils out to restore it. But I feel that'll only weaken the plastic and make things worse.

Has anyone found something that works to restore it back to how it looked when it was newer? I don't want to paint it. There has to be a method to this madness. I appreciate any advice anyone can give me. I'll give anything a try if it'll work.

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The SEM vinyl paint works great on similar interior plastic parts. Not sure about under hood temps.
 
Mike69cuda said:
The SEM vinyl paint works great on similar interior plastic parts. Not sure about under hood temps.
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I'll keep SEM in mind when I get to the interior plastic. It needs all the help it can get.

On the shroud, I'm not sure about painting it. If it chips, it'll start looking all speckled. There has to be a method to cleaning it to where it looks more presentable. I'm not expecting perfection on it, just looking better than it is. It's a shroud after all.
 
I know you said, no paint. But proper prep, and adhesion promoter, followed by dye us not paint. And will hold up. I did so in the body shop with great results on tops, vinyl and plastic parts.
 
Have you tried mineral spirits? That's the main ingredient in the tire restoring sprays.
 
I wonder how the wipe on headlight restoration products would work. I have never used them but I hear that they work good on the plastic headlights.
 
70dart340 said:
Have you tried mineral spirits? That's the main ingredient in the tire restoring sprays.
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I have not. But I'll research this and see what I come up with.

340six said:
I know you said, no paint. But proper prep, and adhesion promoter, followed by dye us not paint. And will hold up. I did so in the body shop with great results on tops, vinyl and plastic parts.
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I have not thought about dyes. Question is will it hold up to heat?

I'm going to look more into the SEM products too. There has to be a happy medium here to reach. Never figured a simple shroud would be such an issue. Maybe I'm making too much of it. I'm just trying to make it as nice as I can and as durable of a finish. It's the picky me coming out. *sigh*
 
As mentioned above, I’ve used SEM paint and plastic restorer with great success. I would use their whole product line if you want your shroud perfect. From their soap to wash the shroud, to the adhesion promoter and then trim paint. I did mine and various interior pieces. Came out excellent.

It sprays and lays down nicely.
 
Bodyperson said:
I wonder how the wipe on headlight restoration products would work. I have never used them but I hear that they work good on the plastic headlights.
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I'd be careful if you use this, and it doesn't work. It may have silicone and could create problems if you do decide to dye or paint. Maybe test on back side that you won't see.
 
DartDave73 said:
I have not. But I'll research this and see what I come up with.



I have not thought about dyes. Question is will it hold up to heat?

I'm going to look more into the SEM products too. There has to be a happy medium here to reach. Never figured a simple shroud would be such an issue. Maybe I'm making too much of it. I'm just trying to make it as nice as I can and as durable of a finish. It's the picky me coming out. *sigh*
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Save yourself a lot of grief. (ask me how I know !! )

SEM products flat out work!
 
Maybe try very low pressure glass beading.

Try it on a the inside section that you can't see once installed.
 
Let me first say I really appreciate all the help and advice on what to do with this. I gave things a lot of thought, did some more research and I came up with this.

Since plastic is made with oil, I did some research on oils that help plastics. Came across a lot of them with using boiled Linseed oil mixed 50/50 with paint thinner. Pictures of results looked pretty good. It's not a permanent fix.. have to do it again in 6-12 months, but to me that's not anything worse than preventative maintenance.

Basically after mixing it 50/50 and testing it on a small area first, I apply it with a microfiber cloth. I didn't have to use much of it. It spreads out easily. I waited a few minutes, then buffed it off with another clean cloth. It looks great! Doesn't feel oily or have any streaks or weirdness. Whole thing took me about 10 minutes to do. This is a good fix for this and any plastic (test first) to give it a nice shine. This is a shroud out of a 73 Roadrunner, so keeping it in good shape seems to be a good thing to me.

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DartDave73 said:
I have not. But I'll research this and see what I come up with.



I have not thought about dyes. Question is will it hold up to heat?

I'm going to look more into the SEM products too. There has to be a happy medium here to reach. Never figured a simple shroud would be such an issue. Maybe I'm making too much of it. I'm just trying to make it as nice as I can and as durable of a finish. It's the picky me coming out. *sigh*
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I have used that SEM on old upholstry for deacdes with great results. One a hot Texas day with the windows rolled up, those seat will get HOT!!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
I have used that SEM on old upholstry for deacdes with great results. One a hot Texas day with the windows rolled up, those seat will get HOT!!!!
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I'm in touch with that emotion. Lived near Ft. Worthless for 23 years. I still remember that bacon sizzling sound sitting in a vehicle with shorts on.
 
Boiled linseed oil is made from flax seeds. Its a drying oil. Over time the polymers cross link. Hence its use as the binder for paints and varnishes. Not a mineral oil.
 
Mattax said:
Boiled linseed oil is made from flax seeds. Its a drying oil. Over time the polymers cross link. Hence its use as the binder for paints and varnishes. Not a mineral oil.
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Yeah, I was reading instructions before doing this that the paint thinner was needed not only to thin out the linseed, but to keep it from dissipating too quickly. Don't know much about polymer cross linking or anything like that. But I do know that it worked whatever it did. I'm going to keep an eye on it to see how it lasts. Most curious when I get it running and it's exposes to heat and other environmental things.
 
DartDave73 said:
Ahh very cool. Probably a lot safer than what I'm doing. I have to let the rags dissipate or they'll self combust. Heh.
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Simple to use. Apply with rag, let setup for a couple of minutes, then wipe off. Did find it important to not let it dry to long before wiping as it becomes tacky. Also best to really rub it in/off well.
 
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