doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I've been searching high and low for a fan shroud that will fit this radiator and I have come up empty handed. I believe it is a 22" radiator. Does anyone have some advice?
That looks a lot wider than 22" to me. What is the radiator out of? Any part numbers on it?
its a 26 inch rad and good luck I have the same rad in mine and cant find a shroud to fit.Nothing?
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
Doogie, I'd send you mine cuz I cured my heating issues over a decade ago, but then I'd just have to come over and steal it back, cuz, well, I just like it there to keep my fingers out of the 7-blade fan.lol
again, no disrespect meant.
Not to thread jack here, but I noticed you mentioned the "extra coolant cross over"Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
What are your engine timings? Retarded timing makes heat.
Carb sucking hot underhood air makes heat.
Pumping hot exhaust thru skinny pipes and restrictive 3-pass mufflers makes heat.
Overheating automatic tranny makes heat.As does a cheap loose TC.
The point is this; the fan shroud is not the first, in the line of defense, to cure an overheat. Eliminating factors that contribute to it in the first place is. Doogie, I read your posts all the time, and I know you are a smart fella, so I imagine you know most, maybe even all of these things, and maybe some even that I have not thought of. And maybe you don't have an overheat issue at all, but just want a shroud because you well, just want a shroud. Fair enough, I get that, but man; you just gotta do something about that fuel line! No disrespect meant.
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
What are your engine timings? Retarded timing makes heat.
Carb sucking hot underhood air makes heat.
Pumping hot exhaust thru skinny pipes and restrictive 3-pass mufflers makes heat.
Overheating automatic tranny makes heat.As does a cheap loose TC.
The point is this; the fan shroud is not the first, in the line of defense, to cure an overheat. Eliminating factors that contribute to it in the first place is. Doogie, I read your posts all the time, and I know you are a smart fella, so I imagine you know most, maybe even all of these things, and maybe some even that I have not thought of. And maybe you don't have an overheat issue at all, but just want a shroud because you well, just want a shroud. Fair enough, I get that, but man; you just gotta do something about that fuel line! No disrespect meant.
Well, if I had that intake, I would plumb that hose over to the other side of the intake, close to where it has traditionally always been; and cap the inlet on the pump. This will equalize the water pressure across the stat house.I’m curious if there is a better way to route it other than capping it.
View attachment 1716136645
In the above pic, the one from your first post;
with the stat closed, all the water flowing thru the block deadheads at the stat, but the suction side of the pump being at a lower pressure than the intake, picks up the water at the bypass, and sends it back thru the engine for another trip. thus the water heats up fast.
With the heater core properly plumbed, this provides hot water into the cab with which to clear the windshield on defrost.
But in the system you have, that second hose is just a second redundant bypass.
Eventually, the water gets hot enough and the stat opens. And so, the hot water now splits, with most of it going to the rad, but the pump is still sucking hot water for a second go-round. and now your redundant bypass may also be bypassing. However, due to the pressure differential across the engine AND the sizing difference, most of the hot water should still be going to the rad.
IMO I don't think there is anything wrong with how you have that set up in the pic. However, the quick-test is to just clamp it off, while the engine is idling and up to temp, and then seeing what happens.
When I first built my engine, I restricted that bigger, standard bypass on mine, and left the heater-core functional to be the emergency back-up cooler. This forced most of the bypass water to go to the heater core, which made my feet really hot in July, so I clamped it off.
The real secret to cooling system efficiency, is getting the temperature difference, from the top of the rad to the bottom, as close to 30 degrees as is possible.
BTW
If the engine overheats in your driveway while idling with the hood up; the quickest way to cool it off is to spray a fine mist on the fins of the rad. The process of evaporation will suck the heat out way faster than pouring liquid water on it.
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.