Fan too close to radiator?

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SeattleQQ1Fish

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67 Barracuda, 273, non A/C stock radiator. It's way hot here, and I'd like to move more air, so I want to move to a 340 7 blade fan. I mounted it up and it's .6 inches from the radiator. Is it too close? Not sure how much the engine mounts flex. I can always get a shorter spacer, but I'm not sure it's necessary..
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Make sure you've got 1/2" clearance ALL THE WAY AROUND the fan- The engine doesn't really sit square to the radiator, so take nothing for granted. Last thing you want is what appears to be 1/2" at the top, and 1/8" at the bottom... and since the diameter is probably larger also, check VERY closely at the top and bottom tanks (and trans cooler lines). If it's close near the tanks, remember that the engine moves...
If you've got 1/2" minimum everywhere, you can probably go with it. I usually like to see 3/4-1" minimum (or whatever it takes to put the fan half in, half out of the shroud), but sometimes you've gotta just call it good.
 
I believe that 340 fan always had a viscous fan clutch on it. A direct drive 7 blade might be noisy.

And it always had a fan shroud.
 
Make sure you've got 1/2" clearance ALL THE WAY AROUND the fan- The engine doesn't really sit square to the radiator, so take nothing for granted. Last thing you want is what appears to be 1/2" at the top, and 1/8" at the bottom... and since the diameter is probably larger also, check VERY closely at the top and bottom tanks (and trans cooler lines). If it's close near the tanks, remember that the engine moves...
If you've got 1/2" minimum everywhere, you can probably go with it. I usually like to see 3/4-1" minimum (or whatever it takes to put the fan half in, half out of the shroud), but sometimes you've gotta just call it good.
It's an inch everywhere else, but it's near that top tank where it's closer.
 
I believe that 340 fan always had a viscous fan clutch on it. A direct drive 7 blade might be noisy.

And it always had a fan shroud.
That's a good point, I didn't consider the noise factor.
 
That's a good point, I didn't consider the noise factor.
My '68 340 has the solid fan (factory), and the noise isn't all that noticeable. I also run one on my '66 wagon, same results. Depending what you're running for exhaust, you may not even hear it unless the hood is open.
 
340, solid lifters, 7 blade fixed fan and if you can hear it making noise over the lifters and TTI headers you have better ears than me....
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The trans mount is captured, so forward engine motion is very limited.
What you wanna be concerned with is how far the fan blades flex (pull) forward at higher rpms.
Then think about a missed shift, - I lost a bottom tank that way.
Clutch fans wont rev over ~4k, (and are "set back" for more clearance) maybe a thought if a manual trans and a spirited driver.
That fan should be okay. jmo
Good luck .
 
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On my 66’ 273 with factory radiator and water pump, I’m running an early 2000 style Dakota fan and clutch. Fits diameter wise for the factory radiator and the factory metal shroud. You need a shroud. 22” radiator needs all it can get to pull air thru that small opening. The clutch fan is quiet and works well.
Syleng1
 
Get a fan shroud and adjust the spacer to put the fan blades about half in/half out of the lip of the fan shroud. They make spacers in plenty of different sizes.

A fan clutch will help get you some power back by not spinning the fan at full speed all the time. But since they can only decrease the fan speed compared to the water pump RPM they don't improve cooling.
 
Send it. If I get one that close I never use a shroud unless it’s on there for safety.

I tested that stuff in high school and we spent 3 shop class days testing with a shroud and without a shroud and as long as the fan was within an inch and a quarter it made zero difference.

At stop lights, cruising down the road or at full speed.
 
Send it. If I get one that close I never use a shroud unless it’s on there for safety.

I tested that stuff in high school and we spent 3 shop class days testing with a shroud and without a shroud and as long as the fan was within an inch and a quarter it made zero difference.

At stop lights, cruising down the road or at full speed.

Nope, that definitely doesn't apply to all applications. What did you do to "test" that? Check the air CFM or velocity actually moving through the radiator?

Having the fan the close enough to the radiator will certainly reduce the need for the shroud depending on the diameter of the fan compared to the surface area of the radiator, but, when the car isn't moving a fan that doesn't cover 100% of the radiator will not pull air across the entire surface area.

Given a specific application I can see how the cooling system wouldn't necessarily need that additional air flow to effectively cool the car, but that doesn't mean you aren't losing cooling capability.
 
It's a 273.......... without A/C, but appears to have auto cooling lines. .
I'm almost surprised it needs a fan at all.
But, as others have said, with your minimum .6" clearance, just drive it!
 
Nope, that definitely doesn't apply to all applications. What did you do to "test" that? Check the air CFM or velocity actually moving through the radiator?

Having the fan the close enough to the radiator will certainly reduce the need for the shroud depending on the diameter of the fan compared to the surface area of the radiator, but, when the car isn't moving a fan that doesn't cover 100% of the radiator will not pull air across the entire surface area.

Given a specific application I can see how the cooling system wouldn't necessarily need that additional air flow to effectively cool the car, but that doesn't mean you aren't losing cooling capability.

Maybe not in your world but every time I do it it works.

So do exactly what you want but don’t say it doesn’t work.

Go read a better book. Or better yet, go build a cooling system that will keep your engine at 160 in all weather and let me know.
 
Mine stays at 207 at the stat house, no matter what, including idling around on the hottest days of summer at 550rpm/3.5 mph@5* timing.
To be fair, my car does have a shroud; I mean I had it so I installed it.

My 80 Volare had no shroud, had a 4-blade fan, and a 9.5Scr slanty, that ran rock steady as well....... as long as the rad had water in it, lol. I've had many 318 cars/no A-C that ran just fine with 4-blades and broken or no shrouds.
But I admit all my 318/auto A/C-equipped vehicles had shrouds and NOT 4-blade fans.. I've been driving since 1969, so I've had a lot of cars, mostly Mopes.

I just can't see a 273/no A-C needing a 7-blade..... but if you got it, it can't hurt, can it? lol.
 
On my 66’ 273 with factory radiator and water pump, I’m running an early 2000 style Dakota fan and clutch. Fits diameter wise for the factory radiator and the factory metal shroud. You need a shroud. 22” radiator needs all it can get to pull air thru that small opening. The clutch fan is quiet and works well.
Syleng1
?? A 2000ish Dakota has a Magnum engine= reverse rotation fan and shaft mount clutch ... How did you accomplish this? Not being nit-picky, just curious.
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Maybe not in your world but every time I do it it works.

So do exactly what you want but don’t say it doesn’t work.

Go read a better book. Or better yet, go build a cooling system that will keep your engine at 160 in all weather and let me know.

Not gonna answer the question then huh? What exactly did you measure in your high school auto class? Because I can pretty much guarantee that what you "tested" doesn't prove what you said.

I am willing to bet that I have read better books, and I have done far more than just cherry picking things from books I don't have a background in- I have formally studied both thermodynamics and fluid dynamics at a level far beyond a basic radiator.

It's true, not every automotive cooling system uses a fan shroud and not every one needs one. If spaced properly the fan can work adequately assuming the whole system has been well designed.

But that's not the same as saying it doesn't make a difference. Without a shroud, the fan will not pull air consistently across the entire radiator core in most systems because the fan is smaller in diameter than the surface area of the radiator. And either way, you're still losing efficiency because you're not directing the air coming off the ends of the fan blades. If the system is good enough the lost efficiency may not mean the car overheats, but again, that's not at all the same as saying it doesn't make a difference.

A fan that is properly spaced in a fan shroud will be more efficient than one that is not and certainly one that doesn't use a shroud at all. Given a particular system an incorrectly spaced fan in a shroud may not work better than not having one, but that depends on the particular case. I don't want to assume too much, but given you're referencing a basic high school auto class I'm guessing you just looked at coolant temperatures, not actual air flow and certainly not the thermodynamic efficiency of the system. So sure, maybe the particular car you tested maintained its temperature either way. But that doesn't prove the shroud doesn't make a difference, it just proves that the cooling system for that particular car was robust enough under the very basic conditions you tested not to have a noticeable difference with the basic equipment you used.
 
Not gonna answer the question then huh? What exactly did you measure in your high school auto class? Because I can pretty much guarantee that what you "tested" doesn't prove what you said.

I am willing to bet that I have read better books, and I have done far more than just cherry picking things from books I don't have a background in- I have formally studied both thermodynamics and fluid dynamics at a level far beyond a basic radiator.

It's true, not every automotive cooling system uses a fan shroud and not every one needs one. If spaced properly the fan can work adequately assuming the whole system has been well designed.

But that's not the same as saying it doesn't make a difference. Without a shroud, the fan will not pull air consistently across the entire radiator core in most systems because the fan is smaller in diameter than the surface area of the radiator. And either way, you're still losing efficiency because you're not directing the air coming off the ends of the fan blades. If the system is good enough the lost efficiency may not mean the car overheats, but again, that's not at all the same as saying it doesn't make a difference.

A fan that is properly spaced in a fan shroud will be more efficient than one that is not and certainly one that doesn't use a shroud at all. Given a particular system an incorrectly spaced fan in a shroud may not work better than not having one, but that depends on the particular case. I don't want to assume too much, but given you're referencing a basic high school auto class I'm guessing you just looked at coolant temperatures, not actual air flow and certainly not the thermodynamic efficiency of the system. So sure, maybe the particular car you tested maintained its temperature either way. But that doesn't prove the shroud doesn't make a difference, it just proves that the cooling system for that particular car was robust enough under the very basic conditions you tested not to have a noticeable difference with the basic equipment you used.


I’ll answer this bullshit post and then I’m out. I’m tired of arguing with arrogant idiots. Yes, you are one of them.

I can tell you how I KNOW you don’t need a shroud.

I was just working on a car yesterday. Didn’t have a shroud. Why not? Because I put it together and the fan is close enough it does MATTER.

How do I know it? Because it never over heats. Ever. It was 90 plus yesterday and sitting in traffic and running down the freeway the temp gauge didn’t even wiggle.

I could pull all the spacers off, fit a shroud and all that and it wouldn’t make a pinch of **** of difference. Nada. Zilch. Zip.

I know that busts your balls because your books say it ain’t proper but I don’t care about your books or your schooling. All that did was make you scared to think for yourself.

In the automotive world you are so limited on space that you can’t, under normal conditions over speed the pump or get the radiator too big or any other nonsense.

There just isn’t room. So you can disabuse yourself that you could even do it. You can’t.

So when I say to:

Buy the BIGGEST radiator that will fit. with TWO CORES. More cores isn’t better. And get it in aluminum. It’s lighter and will cool as good or better as anything else. That’s 26 inches in a Chrysler. Can you hack the core support up and use a big cross flow radiator or some nonsense but I don’t cut up cars like. No benefit.

Get a HIGH FLOW water pump. Arguing this is absurd but I’m sure you’ll try. The pumps cost the same so why not?

Oh right, because you put the fear of God I to people with the threat of cavitation. I’ve never seen it at the pump speeds we can get.

A HIGH FLOW thermostat. The best are Stewart Components. Every one of those I’ve used will maintain their rated temperature. Some of the others don’t. If I have a 180 that’s where it should run. Unless of course you want to make the cooling system as borderline as you can. I won’t do it.

For most guys on here you can drive the pump as fast as you can get the pulleys to do it.

I forget how fast the pump is over driven on the car I fixed yesterday but it’s more than 6% but it’s 10 over or a skosh more.

Get a mechanic fan. Period. No clutch fans, no trick ****. The power you save with electric fans is ate up by the power you lose when you can’t keep the engine cool.

See how simple and cheap that is? You buy one radiator. One pump. One thermostat and one fan.

No guessing. And it will cool whatever you have.

Of course being the professional argue-er you are, you’ll cry and whine that I didn’t do any math and didn’t check with a qualified engineer and professional bullshitter like you.

Too bad. Doing it my way saves money and time.

Now go away. I don’t answer to you. I’ve wasted my last second trying to convince you you don’t have a ******* clue what about cooling an engine. An engine in a car, not a book I mean.
 
I’ll answer this bullshit post and then I’m out. I’m tired of arguing with arrogant idiots. Yes, you are one of them.

I can tell you how I KNOW you don’t need a shroud.

I was just working on a car yesterday. Didn’t have a shroud. Why not? Because I put it together and the fan is close enough it does MATTER.

How do I know it? Because it never over heats. Ever. It was 90 plus yesterday and sitting in traffic and running down the freeway the temp gauge didn’t even wiggle.

I could pull all the spacers off, fit a shroud and all that and it wouldn’t make a pinch of **** of difference. Nada. Zilch. Zip.

I know that busts your balls because your books say it ain’t proper but I don’t care about your books or your schooling. All that did was make you scared to think for yourself.

In the automotive world you are so limited on space that you can’t, under normal conditions over speed the pump or get the radiator too big or any other nonsense.

There just isn’t room. So you can disabuse yourself that you could even do it. You can’t.

So when I say to:

Buy the BIGGEST radiator that will fit. with TWO CORES. More cores isn’t better. And get it in aluminum. It’s lighter and will cool as good or better as anything else. That’s 26 inches in a Chrysler. Can you hack the core support up and use a big cross flow radiator or some nonsense but I don’t cut up cars like. No benefit.

Get a HIGH FLOW water pump. Arguing this is absurd but I’m sure you’ll try. The pumps cost the same so why not?

Oh right, because you put the fear of God I to people with the threat of cavitation. I’ve never seen it at the pump speeds we can get.

A HIGH FLOW thermostat. The best are Stewart Components. Every one of those I’ve used will maintain their rated temperature. Some of the others don’t. If I have a 180 that’s where it should run. Unless of course you want to make the cooling system as borderline as you can. I won’t do it.

For most guys on here you can drive the pump as fast as you can get the pulleys to do it.

I forget how fast the pump is over driven on the car I fixed yesterday but it’s more than 6% but it’s 10 over or a skosh more.

Get a mechanic fan. Period. No clutch fans, no trick ****. The power you save with electric fans is ate up by the power you lose when you can’t keep the engine cool.

See how simple and cheap that is? You buy one radiator. One pump. One thermostat and one fan.

No guessing. And it will cool whatever you have.

Of course being the professional argue-er you are, you’ll cry and whine that I didn’t do any math and didn’t check with a qualified engineer and professional bullshitter like you.

Too bad. Doing it my way saves money and time.

Now go away. I don’t answer to you. I’ve wasted my last second trying to convince you you don’t have a ******* clue what about cooling an engine. An engine in a car, not a book I mean.
I have a question about high flow water pumps, this doesn't evolve personal experience or anything else just a question, wouldn't a high flow water pump move the water to fast? Remember I'm only asking a question
 
I ended up installing an Edelbrock phenolic spacer and it really improved hot starts when it's super hot outside. The fan definitely would've fit with a 1 7/8" spacer, but the car runs fine and I decided not to mess with it now.
 
I have a question about high flow water pumps, this doesn't evolve personal experience or anything else just a question, wouldn't a high flow water pump move the water to fast? Remember I'm only asking a question

Now Dan, did you see the thread about cooling??

No, I put a FlowKooler pump on mine and it stays much cooler than with the A/C pump I was using.
 
Go to the internet and search Shop part Manual and confirm what the correct Fan, spacer, Shroud, Radiator and such should be for your car, Engine and Trans combo! Find and Use them!
Do not make guesses! Upgrade your Pump as 66fyssh suggests with the Flow Cooler and use a high flow t-stat! I suggest a 185 degree unit. Unless the Manual specifically calls for a lower # unit!
 
After reading this post I just do not understand how you cannot run a Shroud to help keep you engine cool. I once had a heating issue where my car would run around 200+ degrees with a Fan shroud, an OEM fan along with a 180 degree thermostat in my HP 340. I ended up replacing my fan with a 17" flex fan and shaved .500" off from my fan spacer which allowed my fan to be about 1.25" back from the radiator which allowed more air flow over more area of the radiator. This move helped to reduce my heating issues where now my car runs between 180-190 degrees even on a hot day in traffic.
 
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