Father-Son 1974 Duster Project

[DusterDaddy]

I was reading and asking questions in the bodywork threads about eliminating the rubber filler between the rear bumper and the body. A few guys said they drilled through the impact absorbers and pushed them in an inch to eliminate the need for the rubber filler.
I drilled them through with a 5/16ths bit. I couldn't push them in by hand but I could rotate them, which I couldn't do before drilling them. I was surprised that no oil came out of either one, but there was trace amounts on the drill bit once I pierced the inner part of the absorber devices.

 

[DusterDaddy]

One more thing from this weekend. This is a picture of our dash structure. The PO cut 2-2" holes I assume for additional gauges in the dash:banghead:. I'm going to weld patches back in those holes. Can anyone tell me if the hole to the left of the radio volume shaft hole is needed on a 74 and will the bezel cover it if not?
I may have a radio bezel in the box of wonder that was in the trunk of the car when I got her but I'm not sure.
I bought an instrument cluster from a member who said he is pretty positive it worked. But I would prefer aftermarket gauges for the car.

 

[DusterDaddy]

What a bummer, I was moving stuff around in the garage to find a spot for the new trans and when I mover the rear seat back out of the way to get at a furniture dolly, I saw the edge of this. This is all of it. it was tucked into the bottom corner. Somewhere along the way it was carelessly ripped off the seat back..I sure wish I had the whole thing....

 

[moparlover]

here's a 73 dart sport dash, should be similar

View attachment 8163194-IMG_1070.jpg

the one pictured has been disassembled, hole cut in the plastic, then in the metal using the plastic for a template, to fit my standard 1 DIN size radio

it came out well. i had it all apart this weekend the dash is now off to the shop for paint.

so those 3 round holes are not needed at all i can tell you from personal experience. however, it's also not needed to weld them shut because the center plastic covers everything

 

[DusterDaddy]

here's a 73 dart sport dash, should be similar

View attachment 1714733317

the one pictured has been disassembled, hole cut in the plastic, then in the metal using the plastic for a template, to fit my standard 1 DIN size radio

it came out well. i had it all apart this weekend the dash is now off to the shop for paint.

so those 3 round holes are not needed at all i can tell you from personal experience. however, it's also not needed to weld them shut because the center plastic covers everything

Ah Cool... I didn't realize that the center bezel also covered the bottom. So I guess the radio bezel that was in the box of wonder in the the trunk when I got the car was " Customized"

 

[moparlover]

yep.

i bought a radio at best buy for it, has xm, bluetooth, ipod usb jack, etc. i put the bezel up to the plastic, marked it cut with my dremel. then attached the plastic back to the dash frame marked it. cut two long horizontal slots only, then just 4 little cuts so i could bend the sides (where the old knobs came through) back as two flaps for attaching.

i'll post pics in a few months when i get the dash back (so i can assemble everything into the dash at my house) basically it will be ready to bolt in for the body shop guys with my new gauges, radio etc wired up ready to go

 

[DusterDaddy]

NICE! I'm looking around for an in dash Craig powerplay, Alpine or Kenwood with cassette so it likes like it did when I was in High School!
I can use the line in input for iPod lol

 

[DusterDaddy]

Here is the driver side repair to the inner rocker. The back end of it and a small section on the outside had rusted out. It was the same on the passenger side.

My welding skills are not terrible considering I have a used less than $100 Harbor Freight flux core welder. But I still like smearing the urethane seam sealant to deal with potential pinholes and to hide my ugly welds!

 

[4mulaSvaliant]

Great build man! Glad to see you have the chance to build something that will be cherished by all of them for the hard work they put in. I hope I as fortunate in the coming year or two with my son.

By the way if you are still looking for a body shop/ restoration shop... I just had my paint and body completed by David Rosengart at Psychobilly Customs, in Hagerstown Md. He is a new friend, and does excellent work! I couldn't be happier with the work he has done for me. Ill be picking up my little Valiant next Saturday. If you want to see his work, feel free to click on my build link below. (go to the last page)

 

[DusterDaddy]

Tomorrow sweetie, at the beach today.....

 

[zkx14]

Inside the passenger fender is that antenna base reinforcement. I was was practicallt ruster away, so I cut it out and quickly fab-ed up a new one. I'm just wondering if I should run a thick bead of urethane adhesive in the space between the new reinforcement and the top edge of the fender???

Great Thread!

I know this was a little while ago, but I would not put anything there. It would probably just trap more moisture. Something you may want to add - the front of that bracket should have had a tab on it for the top mount of the splash shield.

 

[DusterDaddy]

Thanks, can I get a couple dimensions?
Also, is that the driver side fender or is the image reversed?

 

[DusterDaddy]

Neither of my fenders has that tab for the splash sheilds....
And I don't remember if the ones on the car when I got it had them either.

 

[zkx14]

That was driver, but here is the passenger. From the center of the stud mount hole I get 11 5/8 to the tab. From side flange to center of tab hole 1 1/8" and from center of hole to top of fender above it is about 7/8.

I guess the splash shield can't go far even with this missing if the other mounts are secure. I believe 73-76 should have this mount for the plastic splash. I know one of mine was rusted away and I got a pair of shields out of a yard and these were nearly gone (making removal of parts easier)

 

[DusterDaddy]

I got a nice Hardware kit for my fenders from www.rtspecialties.net
New studs, nuts, hood bumpers, and U-nuts. Arrived in 2 days!

Going to work on the getting the bolt on panels back on the car, and removing the rear bumper shocks to be able to eliminate the rubber filler strip between the bumper and the tail panel.

It's embarrassing to say so but I don't own and sockets over 7/8 so I need to head over to Sears and see if they have a hot steaming deal on a 1/2 drive set or expand my 3/8 drive 7/8 through 1-1/4...lol

 

[DusterDaddy]

Today was a good day! We were able to actually adjust the doors to something that is close to decent, bolt on the fenders and adjust the hood.

We pulled out the valance and I forgot how mangled it is, so I'll be looking for a replacement.

We also got the rear bumper shocks off the car. Best of all was the right side quarter and it's new skin are sized up and looking good for final fitment and welding hopefully next week end.

 

[Dartn440]

Moving along and looking great!

 

[bluepressman]

I see you like the micro adjusting tool also. Mr. hammer will fix anything.

 

[DusterDaddy]

This weekend was another good one. The passenger side really looks like a car again!:cheers:
The quarter skin on this this side is fitted and tack welded in place.
The new front valance we bought arrived and is even better than the seller described it, thanks Warren. Things are moving along.:wack:ccasion:
Thanks to Danny for your expertise!

 

[DusterDaddy]

Misty got her driver side quarter skin fitted and tacked on this weekend! These Goodmark skins fit nice!
Now for some weldin' and grindin' on both sides. It's nice to go out into the garage and not be able to see through the trunk from side to side anymore....:toothy1:

 

[sireland67]

Skins look great you mentioned goodmark, not amd any price difference?

 

[DusterDaddy]

Skins look great you mentioned goodmark, not amd any price difference?

Yes a huge price difference. Keep in mind this car cost me $200. The main reason I bought it was I figured I could work on it a long time without investing too much cash at one time since it needed everything. Besides, it had a valid New Jersey title and many cars we looked at didn't have titles at all. I can usually only work on her one day per week plus a few hours here and there. What I'm saying is I really don't have much money to spend on the car, but I love the hobby so much, I do what I can afford.

I was able to get passenger and driver side skins for about $280 delivered to my door!
I wasn't able to to find AMD skins anywhere for significantly less than $200 each plus $120 truck freight.

So I figure no matter how you slice it I saved at least $220 by going with the Goodmarks from www.getallparts.com

They had them for $130 each then gave me 10% off and shipped them for $28 ( the $28 shipping still has me scratching my head since they came Roadway Freight or whatever they call that company now) The freight thing had to be ****-up in the order processing but hey I paid $28 for shipping and they are tack welded on my car now! lol. I think they are a new parts website, because I never heard of them before. But for me to be able to get both skins for that price delivered, I figured I would deal with any fitment problems, but there were none.

 

[moparmat2000]

I just wanted to say that I was able to buy a left and a right Goodmark quarter panel skin for $288 bucks including tax and delivery to my home.
I was amazed at the price. I got them from www.getallparts.com
If you place an order from them this summer use the promo code "Summer10" to get an additional 10% off.

thanks for the information on this one. promo code is expired otherwise i would have gotten my 67 cuda rear quarters for $288 for the pair as well. mine will be $340 shipped with tax. goodmark is a great brand. i cant wait till i get mine. before you found this place the cheapest i found these was $517 shipped on Evilbay. $177 savings will buy me other parts i need.

i bookmarked getallparts.com in the favorites on my computer, as i will need a set of these for the 69 model cuda future project for my wife too. how well were these boxed up as mine are coming UPS ground, requiring a signature so i can inspect them for damage.

thanks
matt

 

[moparmat2000]

while I'm thinking about the doors, I'm wondering what to use and how to go about cleaning up the chrome finish on the handles? Any secret cleaning and polishing rituals anyone wants to share?

if the chrome is pitted and faded out you cant fix it short of rechroming, but there is an easy answer.

go to your dodge dealer and buy a pair of new exterior door handles for a dodge pickup from 1973 up to 1993 (before the new ram bodystyle) . use your buttons and linkages from the old duster handles, same door handle as your duster. this casting goes back to 1966 on B bodies and C bodies, and 1967 on A bodies.

BTW the front fender marker lamps are the same as a dodge pickup from 1981 to 1993, and plymouth horizon/dodge omni from 1978 to 1987

hope this helps
Matt

 

[DusterDaddy]

thanks for the information on this one. promo code is expired otherwise i would have gotten my 67 cuda rear quarters for $288 for the pair as well. mine will be $340 shipped with tax. goodmark is a great brand. i cant wait till i get mine. before you found this place the cheapest i found these was $517 shipped on Evilbay. $177 savings will buy me other parts i need.

i bookmarked getallparts.com in the favorites on my computer, as i will need a set of these for the 69 model cuda future project for my wife too. how well were these boxed up as mine are coming UPS ground, requiring a signature so i can inspect them for damage.

thanks
matt

Here is the only pic I have of the boxes They are heavy duty cardboard with lots of corrugated paper and bubble pack inside. Nice packaging job...