Father-Son 1974 Duster Project

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Dartn440 said:
Map light maybe, but my 74 has a switch there that went to a rear defrost unit mounted in trunk.
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I think you're the winner! Our car has the rear defroster and from the look of it there is no other place where a switch would be. Thanks for the tip.
 
Apparently I am good for something! I sold the whole thing on mine. My wiring had been hacked into so I use mine for the back up lights. Lol
 
I got a complete heat-AC box from another member. Here it's pictured with the side that bolts to the firewall. The opening where the fan and condensate drain were was cut away with a grinder for some reason. Above the complete box is an un damaged version of the same part that was original to our car.
I need to find a rebuild kit for this box and also need to pressure test the heater core and AC coil
Can anyone tell me where and how I can get fittings to test the AC coil or should I just cobble some rubber plumbing fittings to get some air pressure on these things?

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Parts score. I was a little overwhelmed after looking at all the little things left on the 72. Went from rolling to back on jack stands. Ordering some under hood harnesses tomorrow. Making the list longer....
 
What did the manifolds come off of, defiantly smog ones, with the holes below the ports.
They may need plugged on the back side, usually smog manifolds had a AIR set up on them.
 
sireland67 said:
What did the manifolds come off of, defiantly smog ones, with the holes below the ports.
They may need plugged on the back side, usually smog manifolds had a AIR set up on them.
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They came off a 75 360 Roadrunner. I was more concerned that they had larger ports, but I never considered or noticed the air ports on the manifolds.

What methods can be used to close them up?
 
I had a set of smog manifolds on a truck once. The block off plates were small tear drop shaped pieces of 1/4" plate with a bolt hole at the top.

Cley
 
DusterDaddy said:
Hey now! Scored these 360 manifolds and they are inbound. The hard core speed shop dudes and guys I respect from FABO say they will work with a little nip and tuck....

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I didn't catch that these manifolds had smog ports:eek:ops:...:violent1:The seller hasn't shipped them yet and graciously agreed to return my payment.:prayer:
Saving my pennies for a set of 340 A-Body manifolds..:burnout:
 
I may have a set of those manifolds up in the garage attic, though it may take me some time to get up there. (have to move a mountain of stuff to get to them) I will look next chance I get and let you know if I do.
 
I was wondering what is the right wiper motor for our Duster.
Did they use both 2 and 3 speed motors in Dusters for 74?
The switch has got to be different for 2 and 3 speed motors right?
 
Ok so I just went through this on my 72. The motor part number was a 3 speed....found that out on a site called Rick's Restorations. It matched the interior switch that was a three position knob. New ones on the 3 speed are all over on prices but I just. Got a bench tested one from FABO member Tony whitepunkonnitro. Wires are hard soldered to unit so you need the harness on it. Bulkhead to motor wiring if you don't have it is available at year one for under $40.
 
I have the motor that was in the car to get a part number off of. It was a few years back, but as I remember it had a few frayed wires on it. Who knows maybe it's still good. I'll post a few pics when I dig it out.
 
For some reason the switch on my Duster has three speeds, but the motor is a two speed.
The motor ran on both speeds with the switch.

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There is something about those orange Mopars..
It looks so great with anything black on it
 
I'm going to stick the wiper motor I have in there cause I'm pretty sure its parked and the linkage should all go back in...Then I'm sure one of you boys will tell me how to test it without the harness.
UPDATE: I found out that my motor is a 3 speed motor because the harness is soldered to it. If anyone can post a detailed picture of the soldered connection at the motor, we would greatly appreciate it.:)
 
On the connections soldered to the switch plate/gear housing cover. Two greens go together blue on the other connection. Doesn't matter which side you solder to, just matters that the two greens are soldered on the same side and blue by itself
 
Have a friend I grew up with that still has his 70 Duster and it has Craigers on it. I always thought the chrome really made the red pop!
Have you considered headers? When I put mine on with 3" Flowmasters it made a noticeable difference. Installed the multi layer metal gaskets and have not had a leak.
 
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