ariffle
Fish Shouldn't Rust
Looks good!
Here is how I did mine
Here is how I did mine
Father-Son 1974 Duster Project
- Thread starter DusterDaddy
- Start date
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Dartn440
Well-Known Member
You are still making me a nervous wreck with those farm tools. Maybe you can put some mittens on them or something!
Car is looking good!
LOL. I have been waiting for you to say something about my yard tools again. There is no other place for them. If I put the on the other side of the garage, my kids would be knocking them off and bashing themselves in their heads, and they still may hit the car. They need to stay there. They're not in danger of being knocked off being where they are. The kids know that side of the garage is off limits......
The kids will be washin the road dust off pretty soon!
Well today was a good day to get some stuff back on the firewall.
I've had my gasket kit for some time, but I was debating on how to replace the insulation that was glued to the back of the fan housing/duct/heat box. We decided to use foam sill sealer and 3M Spray90 adhesive. It came out nice and went back into the car and everything fit real well. I just applied the adhesive, set the foam when tacky, and trimmed the excess with a single edge razor. Then my son and I installed it back into the car.:cheers:
I've had my gasket kit for some time, but I was debating on how to replace the insulation that was glued to the back of the fan housing/duct/heat box. We decided to use foam sill sealer and 3M Spray90 adhesive. It came out nice and went back into the car and everything fit real well. I just applied the adhesive, set the foam when tacky, and trimmed the excess with a single edge razor. Then my son and I installed it back into the car.:cheers:
While Aaron was in the engine compartment we got the fan and wiper motor back in.:toothy1:
While we had the material out, we got the foam glued to the fuel tank. I think it will do the job of the original rubber strips and keep the tank from vibrating against the trunk well and floor. We scuffed up the chassis saver and gave the tank a coat of gloss black. Hope to get it back in the car tomorrow.:glasses7:
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Making great progress!
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
X2,,,great project and memory making experience :glasses7:
Keith, nailed it. Enjoy the family connection, cherish it forever.
I would love to hear a few opinions on what fuel line to run, if I should run a return, and what mechanical pump and filters to use. I will be running a mild build 318 with a .480 cam and a 600 cfm Holley on performer intake.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Depending on the sending unit size I would just buy a new pre-bent stainless steel lines from a vendor, Classic, Mancini etc. Stock size is 5/16.
If you are replacing the sending unit upgrade to 3/8 and put a bigger line in, the cost is the about the same.
No return is needed, but you will have to vent the tank on the other smaller line.
Factory ran small line up to a charcoal canister in the engine compartment.
Carter makes a muscle car series mechanical pump that is really reasonable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m6866/overview/make/dodge
If you are replacing the sending unit upgrade to 3/8 and put a bigger line in, the cost is the about the same.
No return is needed, but you will have to vent the tank on the other smaller line.
Factory ran small line up to a charcoal canister in the engine compartment.
Carter makes a muscle car series mechanical pump that is really reasonable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m6866/overview/make/dodge
View attachment 1714811991Got our cleaned up tank back in the car. Thanks for the input on the gas line. How would you vent the tank?
View attachment 1714811991
View attachment 1714811991
Looks great. I was thinking that you might want the factory insulation on the fuel tank. Rubber is a better material to prevent any vibration and prevent anything static near fuel. Don't know if I'm right though?
X2 the foam will not last there very long, use roof felt, the same stuff that is under the shingles of your house, or buy the repo stuff.
As for the vent, I am not 100% what I would do in your situation, I just left the original line hooked up to the front of the car, but it is not connected to anything.
I totaly disagree. That foam insulation is polyethylene. Its celular composite make up make it a very durable contemporary replacement for the original rubber product. A lot of todays automotive seals are made of polyethylene :toothy1:
The problem with cellular composite material is it needs a protective encapsulated barrier around it or it will disintegrate.
It will outlast us all, even the cockroaches that will survive nuclear winter....
Lol, probably true.
Keep on working forward, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I am going to try to drop the 340 in my Duster this weekend if the weather holds out.
Actually I am glad you did not buy the manifolds, I decided to use them.
Keep on working forward, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I am going to try to drop the 340 in my Duster this weekend if the weather holds out.
Actually I am glad you did not buy the manifolds, I decided to use them.
Good luck with getting it in the car! Earlier tonight I took the blankets off our motor and slipped the driver side on the studs just for grins
I still can't believe the generosity...
It's just great that the weather is nicer now and this guy and me can hang in the garage and get a few things done and shoot the breeze. It's just great!
Good luck with getting it in the car! Earlier tonight I took the blankets off our motor and slipped the driver side on the studs just for grins
I still can't believe the generosity...
Looks like that you need to stuff it in soon.
X2 on the manifolds.
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
In response to this and your PM:
Regarding fuel lines: I used the stock type steel 5/16 with 1/4 return. Got them from Fine Lines at Carlisle a couple years ago for $60 each. Vent line is 2 pieces joined by a rubber hose and clamps near where it comes from under the car into the engine bay.. The lines were far more accurate than I think I would have been able to bend and saved a lot of time. I posted pics of line routing here: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280112&highlight=tank. Not sure what they are plated with, but seems good. No doubt stainless is better if you want to spend a few bucks more. The small lines from pump to filter to carb - I have an original pieces there, but you can buy those prevent also if stock configuration, or you may want to custom bend if yours varies much from original.
Is your sender 5/16 or 3/8? I'd match whatever you have for line size. I doubt you would ever need more juice than the 5/16 would provide, but if any chance of that, now would be the time...
Here's a good write-up by Dan Stern(slantsixdan) that shows the charcoal canister and describes how vent factory systems functioned.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html
The first canister pic in the article shows a port plugged. Mine in pic here uses that plug to vent the carb bowl. (Holley1945 on slant) I don't know enough about other non-stock venting options to offer any advice.
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