lol I deserved that Alex, more like Goobers fillin' station in Mayberry!
P.S. Misty is a tease....
Father-Son 1974 Duster Project
- Thread starter DusterDaddy
- Start date
-
lol I deserved that Alex, more like Goobers fillin' station in Mayberry!
P.S. Misty is a tease....
Alex5280
74' Duster
LOL!!! All Good, gots to have a sense of humor. Misty is looking good! Can't wait to paint my car.
That body is going to be perfect!
Replacement booster installed. Testing tomorrow
Show us your tips!
I finally cut the angle on mine...
I finally cut the angle on mine...
Last edited:
Booster and brakes working perfectly.
Now that the intake is not sucking air at the booster and I have 18-19 inches of vacuum, all of a sudden I have some oil leaks where the intake meets the heads. Checked the bolts quickly and discovered the bolts closest to the carburetor were pretty loose. Tightened those four with a box wrench and slowed the leaks down to almost nothing. I only did a quick check of the intake bolts before I painted the intake. Should have paid more attention to this as the seller took the intake off to take pics of the motor when he was selling it.
Oh well live and learn. I hope going thru and torqueing the manifold bolts solves the issue.
Then I'll take another run at setting up the timing. Since the big vacuum leak is gone the motor idles much slower and may stall out when moving it around. Still runs rough at higher rpm, but my guru AlV insists she needs more timing. I'm beginning to think he's right. There is no drop of fuel pressure when it starts to faulter. We shall see...
I adjusted the fender support brackets and trimmed the front lip of both fenders because there was so little clearance, I gained a 1/2".
Also finished running the rear wiring harness and installed the passenger side marker lights then Cleaned and prepped all bulb sockets with noalox antioxidant compound. Installed all bulbs and ground straps. Things are shining bright.
Installed a new brake light switch and the lights are working an shining bright.
Even though the oil leaks stressed me out a little, I had an enjoyable day working on my car.
Now that the intake is not sucking air at the booster and I have 18-19 inches of vacuum, all of a sudden I have some oil leaks where the intake meets the heads. Checked the bolts quickly and discovered the bolts closest to the carburetor were pretty loose. Tightened those four with a box wrench and slowed the leaks down to almost nothing. I only did a quick check of the intake bolts before I painted the intake. Should have paid more attention to this as the seller took the intake off to take pics of the motor when he was selling it.
Oh well live and learn. I hope going thru and torqueing the manifold bolts solves the issue.
Then I'll take another run at setting up the timing. Since the big vacuum leak is gone the motor idles much slower and may stall out when moving it around. Still runs rough at higher rpm, but my guru AlV insists she needs more timing. I'm beginning to think he's right. There is no drop of fuel pressure when it starts to faulter. We shall see...
I adjusted the fender support brackets and trimmed the front lip of both fenders because there was so little clearance, I gained a 1/2".
Also finished running the rear wiring harness and installed the passenger side marker lights then Cleaned and prepped all bulb sockets with noalox antioxidant compound. Installed all bulbs and ground straps. Things are shining bright.
Installed a new brake light switch and the lights are working an shining bright.
Even though the oil leaks stressed me out a little, I had an enjoyable day working on my car.
Last edited:
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Nice 'tips' ! LOL
Alex5280
74' Duster
Your car is looking good!
View attachment 1715092532 View attachment 1715092532
I still remember how bad it smelled...
I still can't believe it!
I still remember how bad it smelled...
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I had to Teflon tape the threads of my intake bolts on my 360 to get it to stop weeping oil up the threads and puddling up below the bolts. I just did the upper half of the threads, and that fixed it for me.
On the passenger side I think it's weeping up the bolt like that, but tightening stopped it as far as I can tell. On the driver side it looks like a slight leak between the head and intake. I'm confident some thread sealand and tlc will get me where I want to be. Thanks for the teflon tape tip JD
Last edited:
I use a Teflon paste on those bolts, common hardware store stuff.
I have had good luck using that.
I have found Teflon tape wants to come off in little pieces if you ever have to remove it.
I have had good luck using that.
I have found Teflon tape wants to come off in little pieces if you ever have to remove it.
I was thinking teflon pipe dope too...
Dartn440
Well-Known Member
Looking great. You gotta love that funk that pours out of one when you drag it home! You have done great with it for sure! I have a box full of those Support braces that I blasted and primed. Need to install them all as well.
Last edited:
I can smell it from here, old car smell.
I have the support braces. Just need to figure out what color they should be. This guy did his in black. I am modeling my bay after this one.
Last edited:
bkd
No more Scoops
They sure disappear painted black
Mine are body color, but I kinda like the black better cause it hides them. Not sure what they were originally.
Cley
Cley
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
I'd say just the opposite. Black will stand out against the red.
I did body color. Which I believe was original.
I figure I better take those bolts out one at a time and use a thread sealant then torque them down. I have Teflon Pipe Dope that's used for high pressure, high temperature work.
Not knowing if my intake is properly sealed is giving me high anxiety.
I torqued all the bolts, started her up. Advanced timing till it pinged. Rolled it back a few degrees. It still runs like **** over 2k and I still have a pretty serious oil leak from someplace inthe back of the manifold.
When I had the bad vacuum leak the oil didn't leak so fast. Now that the engine is running at normal vacuum the oil leaks made themselves known in a big way
When this motor was for sale, the guy took off the intake to take pictures. Obviously he didn't reinstall the intake with rtv, it's just bolted down with the old sealant.
Gunna take the intake off and redo gaskets and RTV.
Going Backward....
All I could manage through my disgust was to turn it around and pull it in to the garage. I'll jump back into it when I get a little less pissed off....
When I had the bad vacuum leak the oil didn't leak so fast. Now that the engine is running at normal vacuum the oil leaks made themselves known in a big way
When this motor was for sale, the guy took off the intake to take pictures. Obviously he didn't reinstall the intake with rtv, it's just bolted down with the old sealant.
Gunna take the intake off and redo gaskets and RTV.
Going Backward....
All I could manage through my disgust was to turn it around and pull it in to the garage. I'll jump back into it when I get a little less pissed off....
Last edited:
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I have to do the same sometimes. Just walk away, cut the lights off and come back after I have worked my way thru an attitude adjustment. It usually takes a few days! LOL. Hang in there, the punch list is sometimes the hardest part....but you'll get it done.
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Deep breaths and cold beers...
D/D the car looks great. The braces under the hood are originally black. One of the areas that leak most often on our small blocks are at the front and rear of the intake manifold. Get a good fel-pro intake gasket set. The front and rear rail gaskets are made of cork and will leak if not laid down just right. They are peel and stick on a good set which is important because they tend to shift around and the intake is heavy. You need RTV also and you have to know just where to run your beads (example) around the water ports and corners where the gasket set meets.
-
