fender headers

-
homeboysduster

homeboysduster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
163
Reaction score
10
Location
unionville VA
forgive me guys i'm new here and i have a question. i have a 1973 duster and a 400 bb headers are up on the list. i like the look of the fender well headers. and i understand the tire issue. my concern is cuting the holes in to the unibody, will it weaken the strucker to much. this motor is to be about 500hp. so let me know the wisdom!!!!!:dontknow:
 
I would say a little. But I would add frame connectors. My last Dart I race never had any problems with a 340 and Hooker hustler race headers. That was only a small block running 12.15s.
 
i think that the cut outs take out about a sq ft out of the inner fender. i belive the sub frame connectors and shock tower bracing will help. yet i'd like to know if any one has run the big block headers and survived??? :read2:
 
homeboysduster said:
i think that the cut outs take out about a sq ft out of the inner fender. i belive the sub frame connectors and shock tower bracing will help. yet i'd like to know if any one has run the big block headers and survived??? :read2:
Click to expand...

I ran the CPPA headers (semi fenderwell) with frame connectors on a 440, with 4 speed and the way my brother use to race the car it held together. He would hit the rev limiter and basically side step the clutch, input shaft broke the odd time so we went to an auto trans.
 
Try to leave as much of the inner fender shelf as possible.

Shock tower bracing isn't a big deal if you leave the rest of the inner in place. If you totally remove the inner, then a snout bar from the front of the frame rails to either firewall or rollcage is a smart move.
 
AdamR said:
Depends on who you ask, LOL

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=41917

I would add frame connectors at least.
Click to expand...

Thats a good one!

Its very true. The only coment I have is I don't understand why people think they can put a powerfull engine in a car, and cut big holes out of a unibody!

I would sub frame it at least. I have subframes in my car, and it has underchassi with good inner fenders. These cars weren't that strong to begin with.

I know for a fact there is one person on here that Has absolutly NO inner fenders, or shock tower braces. but does have sub frame conectors. Just cause it works for him, doesn't mean its OK. I think he has just been really lucky

Should be fine with frame conectors

Phil
 
this is i believe my plan. sub frame connectors,4 point rool bar,and the cppa headers. i went to there site and liked what they had to say. so what do you fellows think?
 
homeboysduster said:
this is i believe my plan. sub frame connectors,4 point rool bar,and the cppa headers. i went to there site and liked what they had to say. so what do you fellows think?
Click to expand...

Are you going to run your car on the strret?
Two problems I found with them, is they leak at all the joins (and there is lots of them) and dam do they hang loooooow! I had them all orange siliconed up, and most of the leaks stopped.
I ran my car on the street and when I purchased my third set I thought there must be something better for street use, I now am closing up the holes in my inner fenders and using TTI's. I sold the 3rd set of CPPA's to a guy that is not on the street.
If your car sits low these baby's will drag, if you don't mind the front sitting a little higher than stock you won't have a problem.
 
it seems to me that there are a lot of pros and cons to all of this. so i guess i'm still in the dark as to what to do. the fender well haeders seem to be the most "work on" friendly header out there. couple that with sub frame connectors and a little bracing and hopfully i'll be fine
 
I have the herb Mclandles semi fenderwell headers on my 71 duster they dont leak its easy to remove the starter and with the sub frame concentors I havent had any problems the car is drag raced using 200hp of nos regularly and driven hard
 
I use the hooker super comp 2" headers. My front tires clear lock to lock steering even under full body. My front tire size is 22.5" x 4.5" x 15


88ba6c01.jpg


4fadfd06.jpg
 
i'm wondering what kind of et's are you turning with your dart? and do you have sub frame connectors? and lastly what ind of mods to the motor and tranz? thanks:hello2:
 
11.83 @ 118.42 MPH with a 1.64 60 foot so far. we had the aircleaner on & im looking into getting a hood with a scoop so i can run it open carb.

its got frame connectors that are fully welded to the floor

mild 440 with a crazy trans & 3.91 gear
 
tony i like your car!! my dusters 400 is nice most of the parts are here but i wont put it together till the body is ready. kb240 pistons at 0 deck edelbrock rpm heads cut to a 74 cc chamber. voodoo cam,offy intake,thrmoquad 850 carb,and soon a set of hooker super comp headers!!!! when complet i'll post pics!! thanks!!!!:cheers:
 
cool!! do you have any pics of your car ? i wont be runing nos but the car will be very strong so i want to make no mistakes on the whole project!!!!
 
100_2035.jpg
Here's a pic of mine. I found center of where the tubes would pass through the fenderwell and kept opening the holes untill the headers would pass through. Keeping the holes small as possible.

100_2035.jpg
 
killer pic!!!! love the way you did that. insted of the big gapping hole a nice clean trimed out install !!! thanks!!
 
Homeboy,

I have had a number big block A bodies, all 440s and have never had any problems with structure issues.

That being said....

You will tweak the frame even if you dont use fenderwell and don't reinforce the unibody. Common sense says that if you pick the front wheels up off the ground and with the body naturally twisting something will give. Nothing else but a tweaked frame will occur without stiffening up the frame.

Headers on a B motor, as opposed to RB, will hang lower due to the fact that the heads sit lower on the b block.
 
Im running the hooker fenderwell headers.The few issues they raise are...
tire clearence...master cylinder for me at least.... and front end flex.

Sub frame connectors are a good idea reguardless.
When you cut out the hole you need to reinforce it somewere else.
The fenders are held together were you cut it out and also in front it attaches with a very small bar.
What i did was made two bars going from the firewall to the middle of the fenders. the diagonal "lip" that runs down both sides from the center of the firewall is double sheeted and strong. I attached a bar from each side to each side of the fenders.Sort of like a mini roll cage like you see on some cars but without the crossbar and stuff. I am cheap and i used some electrical conduate and pressed the ends and guessed the angles from the firewall to the fender.
Hope this helps and you kinda get what in saying...i can post pics if you would like

With the tire clearence i ran small tires on my 15" centerlines and raised my torsion bars up just enough not too rub.Some people cant handle the steering and ride but i do fine everyday with it.
 
the sub frame connectors are a manatory factor!!! i've seen some dart sports with support bars running from the fire wall to the fender tops for support. so i agree that resupporting the hole is a great ideal! thanks!!!
 
well ya besides reinforcement your front end will start to become "unallined" and body will start to shift.
My cars are all low buck so i got some electrical conduate and pressed the ends flat and cut em at angles and painted them,'
They dont look horrific and they dont weigh anything.
It dosnt have to pertect your motor in a crash,
just keep the fenders from shifting around over time from body twist..launches....motor rocking and all the little things.
 
i think that some type of cross bar will be needed. i think it will look similer to others i've seen on other cars. this will keep it in check!!!!
 
How do you guys bring your exhaust back under the car with the subframe connectors in the way? This question is for those with fenderwell headers obviously.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top