fender headers

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TONY GTS said:
heres an old under chassis pic i took, you can see how hard it will be to run an exhaust under the frame, my car has the springs moved in board & its got a fuel cell

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old pic before the window tinting

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TONY GTS said:
yea that pic was like a year ago when i was mini-tubbing it, putting a trans in, & do the wiring all at one time with other projects going on... those months sucked

with my ride height its impossible to put exhaust under the frame connectors (unless you use 1.5" pipe) there is enough room for an exhaust out the back just that you'll have to raise the suspension to clear the frame connectors(My exhaust is 1" from the ground & the frame connectors are like 2.5" or 3" from the ground)

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I thought your first pic was saying it hard to fit it under the frame/car. I didn't know you meant the actual frame. That would be quite silly to try and run a cars exhaust under the lowest part of the car. I agree, it would be too tight, if it could be done at all. With fenderwell headers, you have no choice. but you would have more room and clearance if it was under the car is what I meant.

WOW 1 inch clearance. Have you ever bottomed out on them? They would be a pancake here.
 
lol... it scrapes every now & then

i've also got slant 6 torsion bars
 
because the exhaust is so low i had to learn how to do a front wheel allignment myself.
 
Wow that's low! Tony, you must be lucky enough to have no speed bumps and cool cops where you live. Have you ever thought about using oval tubes for your exhaust and some "oval Sportsman street" spintech mufflers for some added ground clearance. I've been looking at this for my own big Block Duster that I'm building.
Nice looking Dart.

Look for Oval Sportsman street mufflers for there low profile sizes
http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/spintechindex.asp

check out the added clearance chart when using oval pipes
http://www.drgas.net/catalog.php?catid=3
 
all of the responces that have come from all of fellows is great!!!!! its making this project a lot easer for me to finish! i'm going to look at the oval pipes to see if its somthing i could use. more to come!:read2:
 
those oval tubes are cool the car would probably have a different sound with those oval pipes.
 
i was only thinking of using them from the header to the tailpipe then go back to the round pipes. i also though about the collector its self with me using a 400 b motor the header will be closer to the ground. so i'm thinking about cutting the bottem 3/4 of the header bend the collector up and fill the wedge in. this should help even more.
 
homeboysduster said:
i was only thinking of using them from the header to the tailpipe then go back to the round pipes. i also though about the collector its self with me using a 400 b motor the header will be closer to the ground. so i'm thinking about cutting the bottem 3/4 of the header bend the collector up and fill the wedge in. this should help even more.
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Your duster...Did it have a 400 in it allready? WHat headers are you using? the only headers that I have seen that are low are fenderwells, But I thought you didn't want to go that way. I have headers on my 440, and they are higher up that SB headers. What headers are you useing?
 
after this great thread i've changed my mind and decided to go with the hooker super comp headers. the under chassie stories i've heard about leaks,starters,and linkage problems i just desided to go with the hookers.
 
homeboysduster said:
after this great thread i've changed my mind and decided to go with the hooker super comp headers. the under chassie stories i've heard about leaks,starters,and linkage problems i just desided to go with the hookers.
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Mine don't leak. I have a 4 spd with mechanical linkage, and it works great. and a mini starter will fix any starter problems.

Make sure you are 100% sure you want to cut holes. It costs alot to patch them back up good down the rd. the extra suports needed can add up too. just my opinion

as far as leaks go, any headers will leak if you don;t have a think flange.

Phil
 
ok what header would you say would be the best for my duster? the computer tells me that my combo is worth about 525 to 550 hp. please and thank you for your concern!
 
homeboysduster said:
ok what header would you say would be the best for my duster? the computer tells me that my combo is worth about 525 to 550 hp. please and thank you for your concern!
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You need to ask yourself some questions, and make up a decition for yourself. I just thought your reasons where un valid befor. ask yourself these questions.

  1. What am I wanting this car for? street? street/strip? or Strip only
  2. are you going to compete competativly, or just for fun.
  3. How much money do you have for headers
  4. are you really willing to cut your inner fenders out, knowing that it will cost alot to Re-patch them if you wish to at a later date.
  5. Do you want a engine with ease to work on?
  6. Do you want Clearance issues when driving?
  7. do you want clearance issues with stearing?
  8. do you want heat issues?
  9. do you want to have full exhaust or not?
  10. do you want a stock look or a race look
  11. are you going to put in frame conectors?
  12. are you going to brace the shock towers?
People have heard me say this befor, and its a personal preference. I just don't like the look of fenderwells. If I was making an all out race car, then yes, I would use them, but otherwise I would use underchassi, or exhaust manifolds.

It's up to you.

Phil
 
this is a street /strip car, fun to drive, and as far as the cutting clearence and heat issues, i'm willing to do what ever it takes to put together a fun loving duster. money for the headers isn't so much of an issue. but please keep writing all of you are really helping a lot. thanks!!!!!
 
if you go fenderwell route you'll need low profile tires to clear them.
i use the M/T et front runners 22.5" tall 4.5" wide, mounted on a 15" x 3.5" rim they clear lock to lock steering with the engine in stock location (header tubes are closer to the tires when motor is in stock location)

You'll also need to make a heat shield for your brake master cylinder
 
my k member is all ready mod. mopar performance told me to move the motor back 1 in and lower it 3/4 in the motor fits really well! and the factory floor shifter is moved too! as far as the master clyinder i'm yet to put it together heat shield sounds about right!!! i found out that a 6 cyl engine wire harnes works great too!!!
 
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