I've finally got time to work on my 63 dart with a 170 slant 6. I took some time and pulled the manifolds off to replace the leaking gasket. It had 1 snapped manifold stud that was there before, but both of the bolts that hold the 2 manifolds together snapped when the manifolds came off the engine from sideways tension. I don't really like how the 2 of them bolt together and I would like to find a tubular header. I've read that the 225 tubular header will work with some modifications, but I don't have alot of money to go around. Any suggestions will help.
Finally back to working on my 63 dart
- Thread starter G. W
- Start date
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Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The only tubular header that works for a "street" driver 170 is the Clifford. You need to modify the front 3 tubes, so the collector sits higher above the steering box, if you have manual steering. With power steering I don't think you can get it to fit without major reworking.
Aussie speed has a nice header that fits the 170 engine, but the tubes hang very low, and will have issues with speed bumps, driveways, etc.
If you don't have much money to spend, and you're not racing, I recommend just getting a good stock exhaust manifold and using a low restriction 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 single exhaust to the back of the car.
Any type of new header with pipes will cost in the neighborhood of $1,000
Aussie speed has a nice header that fits the 170 engine, but the tubes hang very low, and will have issues with speed bumps, driveways, etc.
If you don't have much money to spend, and you're not racing, I recommend just getting a good stock exhaust manifold and using a low restriction 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 single exhaust to the back of the car.
Any type of new header with pipes will cost in the neighborhood of $1,000
Hey, love the Dart! There really isn't an economical tubular option, and if it gets chilly out there often enough when You operate it, probably best to stick with a good cast exhaust with no cracks or warpage & go. Opening the outlet and getting a larger diameter system would be best value for You, peace!!
Unless You're having fuel-vapor/boiling in the carb issues, just make sure the flap is working correctly. I believe some have made a "block-off" plate out of stainless sheet, but cold weather warm-up performance may suffer.
I'm likely gonna drill the busted bolts and put a blocking plate in there. The flap is frozen so if I can't get it to work I'm just gonna plate it off. The stock muffler is rotted so I'm probably going to run a glass pack or two.
And yes, I'm trying to keep this as budget as possible. This is my first car and I naturally don't have much money to play with
Hey G. W. Keep the faith. Just keep poking around eventuality what you want pops up and sometimes the best costing parts are from people you meet along the way. It is the journey not the destination with this hobby we call MoPar. Lol!
Good luck!
Syleng1
Good luck!
Syleng1
All my engine needs is the gasket on the manifolds and what not sorted out. I had it tuned good before I took it apart so it should be close when it's back together.
Now my real struggle is going to be brakes. They work, but all the fluid drains out somewhere. As long as the drums and shoes are good I'm only going to replace the flex lines, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. I think the leak is in the old flex lines(probably the rear to be exact).
Now my real struggle is going to be brakes. They work, but all the fluid drains out somewhere. As long as the drums and shoes are good I'm only going to replace the flex lines, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. I think the leak is in the old flex lines(probably the rear to be exact).
These look like something I could work with. Too bad I can't find them for a decent price. I'm just gonna do what I can with what I've got and upgrade it later
Dutra Dual Mopar Valiant Slant 6 Chrysler exhaust headers 225 six by Aussiespeed | eBay
Dutra Dual Mopar Valiant Slant 6 Chrysler exhaust headers 225 six by Aussiespeed | eBay
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