Finally get to pretend I am one of the cool kids - Holley kit swap

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RustyRatRod said:
That looks like a good fit! I assume this is mockup. You could easily set up a port a power with the engine out of the way and gently push that inner fender out a tad away from that header, I bet. It wouldn't take much at all.
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Yes, just a mock up with a core motor. Good idea on the port-a-power.
 
racerjoe said:
I'm not sure how much wiggle room the K actually has since the bolts have shoulders on them. Are the Holley engine mount bolt holes slotted? I wonder if the engine could be rotated a few degrees without the trans on it making this header really close.
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Seems like there is some slop. I can look at the /6 k-frame when I get home.

Motor mounts are not slotted.

Worst case I will probably just push the inner fender in a little.
 
DionR said:
Seems like there is some slop. I can look at the /6 k-frame when I get home.

Motor mounts are not slotted.

Worst case I will probably just push the inner fender in a little.
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Remember, the shock tower is behind it, so don't get "real" carried away. You don't need much at all for a good gap.
 
DionR said:
Seems like there is some slop. I can look at the /6 k-frame when I get home.

Motor mounts are not slotted.

Worst case I will probably just push the inner fender in a little.
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You could shim the motor up just a tad... put a spacer between the block and the mount. You don't need much. Try experimenting with washers. Hopefully it doesn't throw the holes too far apart

I've got all kinds of shims, trying to clear this and that.. Mostly PS.. But I'm on biscuits
 
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TT5.9mag said:
Nice work @DionR didn’t Holley give up on a lot of that swap stuff?
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I guess some of the confusing parts on the Holley website is because of a different methodology than I would employ. Stuff that is generic and fits multiple years and models doesn’t show up using the filters. Other parts, like motor mounts are part of a kit in the filtering, but the motor mounts themselves aren’t listed unless you open the kit page and then they are shown (e.g. kit contains…with links).

So it seems they haven’t dropped anything, they just have to be searched out if you need them.

And the issues with headers is completely the EPA.
 
do you have part numbers to the elusive Holley parts that are hard to find on there website?

please and thank you
 
racerjoe said:
I'm not sure how much wiggle room the K actually has since the bolts have shoulders on them.
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Looks like there is a fair amount of slop in the bolt holes. The shoulder on the bolt measured 0.746" and the hole in the k-frame measured 0.893". That's more than an 1/8" slop. The silver area in the below picture is the washer showing through the hole in the k-frame.

20241111_092605.jpg


My plan is to use the TTI crank CL measurements and see where I am at and then put the car on a set of jack stands and see if I can loosen the bolts and shift it around depending on the measurements I get.
 
DionR said:
Looks like there is a fair amount of slop in the bolt holes. The shoulder on the bolt measured 0.746" and the hole in the k-frame measured 0.893". That's more than an 1/8" slop. The silver area in the below picture is the washer showing through the hole in the k-frame.

View attachment 1716326196

My plan is to use the TTI crank CL measurements and see where I am at and then put the car on a set of jack stands and see if I can loosen the bolts and shift it around depending on the measurements I get.
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But I bet the mis-alignment in the holes take up a bunch of that slop.
 
Kiddart1 said:
do you have part numbers to the elusive Holley parts that are hard to find on there website?

please and thank you
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I went to Holley's website and searched based on the model rather than "Engine swap parts". Seemed to work better. But here parts that the engine swap category doesn't show.

Oil pans:

302-60/302-60BK - non-VVT
302-61/302-61BK - VVT non-HC
302-64/303-64BK - Hellcat

Motor mounts only - BHS571

Crossmember only - BHS572

Headers - BH23104

Note that I had to search on the part number for the headers, they wouldn't show up in the model specific search. And they only work on '73 and '74 <<wink>>.

Cast manifolds - BHS582/BHS584

Fuel tank - 19-135

Fuel tank module - 12-319

PS hard line kit (Borgeson) - 198-231

Dipstick - 302-74

The dipstick had to be search by part number like the headers, but it does show it is in stock. Note that I haven't tried it yet and I have heard of reports that it is too tall and doesn't bolt to the valve cover like it should.

There are other parts they offer like a hoop for a NAG1, the adapters for the transmission crossmember based on which transmission you are running and transmission mounts. But they seem to be easy to find for now so I didn't list them.

Note that some stuff does seem to have been discontinued. And the NAG1 hoop is only available as a white box (unpainted) item so I wouldn't be surprised if that didn't go away. It seems like they offered everything both coated and uncoated but a lot of the uncoated stuff is now disco'ed, so I am guessing that anything they offer uncoated only is there only until that stock sells out.
 
racerjoe said:
But I bet the mis-alignment in the holes take up a bunch of that slop.
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Good point, very possible. Really makes me wish I paid better attention when I bolted the V8 one in.

I went and looked that old k-frame and it kind of looks like it could be shifted based on the witness marks the washers left. Time will tell.

I also grabbed a quick measurement of the crank CL and I am right at 1.125" offset from the DS, it is supposed to be 1.25". So I am 1/8" too close to the DS which (I think) matches the way it seemed the k-frame needed to go just based on alignment of the ends of the k-frame legs and the outside of the frame.

Guess we will see soon, it will be the next thing I mess with when I get back into the shop this week.
 
DionR said:
I went to Holley's website and searched based on the model rather than "Engine swap parts". Seemed to work better. But here parts that the engine swap category doesn't show.

Oil pans:

302-60/302-60BK - non-VVT
302-61/302-61BK - VVT non-HC
302-64/303-64BK - Hellcat

Motor mounts only - BHS571

Crossmember only - BHS572

Headers - BH23104

Note that I had to search on the part number for the headers, they wouldn't show up in the model specific search. And they only work on '73 and '74 <<wink>>.

Cast manifolds - BHS582/BHS584

Fuel tank - 19-135

Fuel tank module - 12-319

PS hard line kit (Borgeson) - 198-231

Dipstick - 302-74

The dipstick had to be search by part number like the headers, but it does show it is in stock. Note that I haven't tried it yet and I have heard of reports that it is too tall and doesn't bolt to the valve cover like it should.

There are other parts they offer like a hoop for a NAG1, the adapters for the transmission crossmember based on which transmission you are running and transmission mounts. But they seem to be easy to find for now so I didn't list them.

Note that some stuff does seem to have been discontinued. And the NAG1 hoop is only available as a white box (unpainted) item so I wouldn't be surprised if that didn't go away. It seems like they offered everything both coated and uncoated but a lot of the uncoated stuff is now disco'ed, so I am guessing that anything they offer uncoated only is there only until that stock sells out.
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wow thank you for the list. I am torn on exhaust I have already purchased the cast 6.4 Cherokee manifolds that i have heard work on ABody swaps. (Golling Mopars in Roseville) part number 77072462AB. I am into these for $600. i do like the shorty headers they have.
 
Nice!!! I am using the same kit have everything other than the sump, i am going to use a oil filter relocater kit so the filter is in an easy spot to swap over etc. What the current location like for getting to?
 
TT5.9mag said:
Nice work @DionR didn’t Holley give up on a lot of that swap stuff? Have you just been hoarding it till now?
I’ll be watching your T56 install closely as I’m right there also. Are you using a prefab crossmember like a TodRon for the trans or building your own?
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They stopped selling the headers he has something to do with epa. I got my set of ebay. I got engine mounts and gear box mounts all un powder coated and crazy cheap off their site didnt seam reel. Think i paid less than 300 for everything needed to mount the motor
 
DionR said:
I went to Holley's website and searched based on the model rather than "Engine swap parts". Seemed to work better. But here parts that the engine swap category doesn't show.

Oil pans:

302-60/302-60BK - non-VVT
302-61/302-61BK - VVT non-HC
302-64/303-64BK - Hellcat

Motor mounts only - BHS571

Crossmember only - BHS572

Headers - BH23104

Note that I had to search on the part number for the headers, they wouldn't show up in the model specific search. And they only work on '73 and '74 <<wink>>.

Cast manifolds - BHS582/BHS584

Fuel tank - 19-135

Fuel tank module - 12-319

PS hard line kit (Borgeson) - 198-231

Dipstick - 302-74

The dipstick had to be search by part number like the headers, but it does show it is in stock. Note that I haven't tried it yet and I have heard of reports that it is too tall and doesn't bolt to the valve cover like it should.

There are other parts they offer like a hoop for a NAG1, the adapters for the transmission crossmember based on which transmission you are running and transmission mounts. But they seem to be easy to find for now so I didn't list them.

Note that some stuff does seem to have been discontinued. And the NAG1 hoop is only available as a white box (unpainted) item so I wouldn't be surprised if that didn't go away. It seems like they offered everything both coated and uncoated but a lot of the uncoated stuff is now disco'ed, so I am guessing that anything they offer uncoated only is there only until that stock sells out.
Click to expand...
Punch the part numbers into ebay thats how i got some bits with better shipping as i am in Australia
 
racerjoe said:
But I bet the mis-alignment in the holes take up a bunch of that slop.
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Joe, you were right. Absolutely no movement in the k-frame.

So, I have 3 options to move forward.

A. Live with it.

2. Drop the k-frame and slot the holes.

D. Buy an HDK kit.

An 1/8" isn't the end of the world and is probably within the factory tolerance. I would want to add some clearance between the inner fender and DS header, but I don't think that would be a big deal to do when the motor comes out to put a good one in.

I could do a hybrid of the first two by building it at 1 1/8" offset so the drivetrain is square in the chassis but with an eye to being able to slide it over 1/8" if/when I can. I did drop most of the k-frame bolts and it appears that the DS holes are the only ones that would need to be slotted. This option or just ignoring it allows me to move forward.

The HDK kit option was a joke. It took me 4 or 5 years to get to this point and the idea of 4 or 5 more years while I save up to buy a $5K kit makes me nauseous.
 
DionR said:
Joe, you were right. Absolutely no movement in the k-frame.

So, I have 3 options to move forward.

A. Live with it.

2. Drop the k-frame and slot the holes.

D. Buy an HDK kit.

An 1/8" isn't the end of the world and is probably within the factory tolerance. I would want to add some clearance between the inner fender and DS header, but I don't think that would be a big deal to do when the motor comes out to put a good one in.

I could do a hybrid of the first two by building it at 1 1/8" offset so the drivetrain is square in the chassis but with an eye to being able to slide it over 1/8" if/when I can. I did drop most of the k-frame bolts and it appears that the DS holes are the only ones that would need to be slotted. This option or just ignoring it allows me to move forward.

The HDK kit option was a joke. It took me 4 or 5 years to get to this point and the idea of 4 or 5 more years while I save up to buy a $5K kit makes me nauseous.
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Option Q: Big Hammer
 
I guess maybe it was like this from the factory, but I'd do a couple more measurements before slotting and moving the K frame over as that is going to alter your suspension geometry as well. 1/8" probably isn't a big deal and you could likely adjust most of the domino effects out, but shifting the bottom side of the suspension over while the top stays in the same place would affect your camber side to side. Steering should theoretically stay centered I believe because the whole system moves together, though your column would have a very slight offset now that should be taken up by the couplers, so probably no issue there. I doubt 1/8" either direction would affect torsion bars either, but depending on your headers that could just move interference to a new location. I know the TTIs have a spot in them specifically for torsion bar clearance that is pretty tight on my car.
 
Map63Vette said:
I guess maybe it was like this from the factory, but I'd do a couple more measurements before slotting and moving the K frame over as that is going to alter your suspension geometry as well. 1/8" probably isn't a big deal and you could likely adjust most of the domino effects out, but shifting the bottom side of the suspension over while the top stays in the same place would affect your camber side to side. Steering should theoretically stay centered I believe because the whole system moves together, though your column would have a very slight offset now that should be taken up by the couplers, so probably no issue there. I doubt 1/8" either direction would affect torsion bars either, but depending on your headers that could just move interference to a new location. I know the TTIs have a spot in them specifically for torsion bar clearance that is pretty tight on my car.
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Based on the end of the ears on the k-frame, seems like it is offset to the DS a little. The ears are flush with the outside of the DS frame but inset some distance on the PS. So moving it over to locate the drivetrain correctly would probably make things better for the alignment. But just a guess.

Headers shouldn't be an issue since they are shorties and the only place they are close to anything is the DS header at the inner fender and moving the motor over will make this better. They don't get anywhere near the TB's so shouldn't be an issue there. I should probably look at the PS flange and frame to make sure that isn't an issue but I think it is ok.
 
DARTGAME said:
Have you tried slotting the spool area on the Kmember yet?
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Can't imagine what that would even look like and nothing I want to try. I could see cutting the mounts off and shifting them sideways similar to the BB k-frame mod, but I can't see slotting the mount itself. And cutting the mounts and welding them back on 1/8" to the PS is more work than slotting the k-frame mounting bolts.

I also noodled shimming the mounts some and I can't see how that could be done smoothly unless maybe a washer under the bottom bolts on the DS side and under the top bolts on the PS side? Not sure if that would work or even be worth trying.
 
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