For now I just drilled it and pressed aluminum rod in the hole. I will drill new pushrod holes when I decide how far I am going to push it over. I have it mounted on my flowbench right now and if I take it off tomorrow a will take a picture of it
Finally hit the track with my sons new engine
- Thread starter pittsburghracer
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For now I just drilled it and pressed aluminum rod in the hole. I will drill new pushrod holes when I decide how far I am going to push it over. I have it mounted on my flowbench right now and if I take it off tomorrow a will take a picture of it
EXcappa
Well-Known Member
Thanks I'll look forward to the pics.
What holds the aluminium rod in place when the hole is drilled in the relocated position?
stixx
Well-Known Member
As John (?) said, it's press fit.
EXcappa
Well-Known Member
Yeah that's true, but what happens to that pressed in rod when half of it is drilled away with the new pushrod hole.
Is the new pushrod hole sleeved?
stixx
Well-Known Member
Good question: when the relocated pushrod hole didn't hit water I guess no sleeve is needed.
@pittsburghracer?
@pittsburghracer?
Good question: when the relocated pushrod hole didn't hit water I guess no sleeve is needed.
@pittsburghracer?
I've gotten into the habit of sleeving EVERY small block Edelbrock head I port. I tube both the bolt holes and pushrod holes so I can kiss the tubing. The straight wall on these heads needs pushed over badly. I use JB Weld on the tubes when I install them and Splash-Zone epoxy inside the port after the job is done.
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Good question: when the relocated pushrod hole didn't hit water I guess no sleeve is needed.
@pittsburghracer?
I've gotten into the habit of sleeving EVERY small block Edelbrock head I port. I tube both the bolt holes and pushrod holes so I can kiss the tubing. The straight wall on these heads needs pushed over badly. I use JB Weld on the tubes when I install them and Splash-Zone epoxy inside the port after the job is done.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That's what it SHOULD look like when done correctly.
I've seen some hack jobs that worked but didn't look that nice.
I've been sleeving everything too. It's just easier.
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
Always good to see a non-checkbook racer do good...
If you look at the one picture you can see how much I have ground into the solid tube. When I’m satisfied I will then drill the pushrod hole where I want it
EXcappa
Well-Known Member
You Legend, thanks.
Keep us posted as you go
EXcappa
Well-Known Member
Any updates with the heads?
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https://flic.kr/p/DD9Ey7 Love my small block Mopar cars.
Sorry to say but no I haven't. Its a low priority job right now as I have to finish up the 572 for my small tire car and freshen up the Indy 360-1 headed 422 in my black Duster. Sorry but I probably won't jump on that again till early next year at the earliest.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Amateur question, but how do you make sure all the ports are equivalent when doing such extensive port work? Do you measure the volume, and just eyeball the shape?
Eyeball, shape, snap gauges, finger probing, and most of the time I check flow and airspeed on almost every port. Time consuming but well worth it
dadodgekid
When in doubt... floor it
John, was the video you posted of the duster doing wheelies with drag radials on it now?? That think works great!! Im getting ready to use those pistons I got from you
Yes that was his first weekend with the drag radial. Let us know how your build goes.
dadodgekid
When in doubt... floor it
Will do sir. How much compression does his engine have?
Good question and I'm sorry its one I can't answer. His old build was around 11.2-1 (flat-tops) but on this build he has my BEST set of Edelbrock heads and they are the piss-poor open chamber 340 style head. I know they would easily work with pump gas. I did this set for a Friend and when he decided to sell I bought them back because of the man hours I had in them. I can't wait to see how the closed chamber set work out but I probably won't get to try them for awhile so there's no rush to finish them.
fasttcars
Well-Known Member
Good day, what is the duration and LSA specs on that cam?
Boy I apologize but I finally found my cam card for the Reed cam in my Sons car. During a fast holiday clean-up I grabbed a few things at the last minute and put it in a laundry basket with my 2017 tax papers. Here you go.
Reed roller cam
Running duration: In 294----Ex: 300
Lobe lift: In .625 ------- Ex:.625 with 1.5 rocker
In .417 Ex: .417
Duration @ .050 In: 260 Ex: 265
Lobe centers 106 installed at 101
I usually advance all my cams 4 degrees for bottom end. If you can get it to 60 foot that's 3/4 of the battle.
fasttcars
Well-Known Member
No worries man. Those specs are very close to what I was thinking were being used. Standard port location small blocks tend to work well with the 4-5 degrees split 260-270 @0.050 range without needing to spin it past 7000 rpm. Considering the combination works very well it helps to justify the case along with all the other details of course. Out of curiosity what are the cam specs for the 422 in your car?
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