Fine Tuning a 360 Magnum with a Brawler "Double Pumper"

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RustyRatRod said:
Usually, lower compression engines with lumpy cams react better using manifold vacuum.
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That's why I always tune my auto transmission cars in gear, the initial timing, idle speed and idle mixture is best set that way.
Don't need to use no stinking full vacuum. can you smell it. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm sure I won't convince you, but imagine this. It's the same effect when you come off the transfer slots and get into the power circuit. It pulls more fuel in quicker due to a stronger vacuum signal. All you have to do is look at a carburetor diagram and it jumps right out at you.
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What carb do you use ? I have a Brawler on my car and don't know why people keep talking main air bleed when there's a low speed air bleed
 
Damn fish said:
What carb do you use ? I have a Brawler on my car and don't know why people keep talking main air bleed when there's a low speed air bleed
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I've used both. Right now, I'm using a 450 VS Slayer on my slant 6 and it runs fantastic. I have a 650 Brawler DP I've used on both the slant 6 and the 400 Ford engine in my 75 F250. On both the Quick fuel carburetors, my experience has been that the bleeds on top of these carburetors are much more for fine tuning and the fuel restrictors in the metering blocks are more for making larger adjustments.I get the fuel restrictors close first and then fine tune with the air bleeds. I took the 650 off the slant 6, because, while it ran great and produced more power than the 450, it was difficult to get the low speed mixture correct. I knew the 450 was a dead match, so I put it back on. I took it off the Ford, because amazingly, it wasn't enough for it and I have a Street Demon 750 three barrel on it now and it runs great.
 
Damn fish said:
What carb do you use ? I have a Brawler on my car and don't know why people keep talking main air bleed when there's a low speed air bleed
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Because the main air bleed controls when the booster starts.

Get it too big and the booster starts too soon. So you are pulling fuel from the booster, and from the T slots and depending on emulsion and idle air bleed/idle feed restriction you still are pulling fuel from the idle circuit.

You can’t unfuck that with an idle air bleed change.

Thats why I keep saying all these carbs coming with an assload of emulsion (because somehow in the 1990’s when all this bullshit started it became “orthodoxy” that emulsion was to add air to the system and that’s not what it’s for) and big main air bleeds (I won’t even get into transfer slot length and width) are straight garbage and need to be fixed.

You ain’t fixing all that with an idle air bleed change.

That’s why it keeps getting brought up.
 
fishmens67 said:
That's why I always tune my auto transmission cars in gear, the initial timing, idle speed and idle mixture is best set that way.
Don't need to use no stinking full vacuum. can you smell it. lol
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
I've used both. Right now, I'm using a 450 VS Slayer on my slant 6 and it runs fantastic. I have a 650 Brawler DP I've used on both the slant 6 and the 400 Ford engine in my 75 F250. On both the Quick fuel carburetors, my experience has been that the bleeds on top of these carburetors are much more for fine tuning and the fuel restrictors in the metering blocks are more for making larger adjustments.I get the fuel restrictors close first and then fine tune with the air bleeds. I took the 650 off the slant 6, because, while it ran great and produced more power than the 450, it was difficult to get the low speed mixture correct. I knew the 450 was a dead match, so I put it back on. I took it off the Ford, because amazingly, it wasn't enough for it and I have a Street Demon 750 three barrel on it now and it runs great.
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Ok thank you. I didn't have a high vacuum situation but 11 inches at idle and when I tried to gently get moving it would lean misfire and die. I dropped two low speed bleed sizes and problem solved. 70 to 68
 
Damn fish said:
Ok thank you. I didn't have a high vacuum situation but 11 inches at idle and when I tried to gently get moving it would lean misfire and die. I dropped two low speed bleed sizes and problem solved. 70 to 68
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My slant 6 has 6 hg at idle.
 
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