TAK65
Well-Known Member
No, I just thought that they probably will not notice the upgrade.
Finned vs smooth brake drum
- Thread starter TAK65
- Start date
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No, I just thought that they probably will not notice the upgrade.
Yup.
bcschief
Well-Known Member
Did they ever make finned 9-inch drums?
bcschief
Well-Known Member
And if they did where would you get them today?
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Maybe Finland?
TAK65
Well-Known Member
Two ebay vendors seem to have them.
That was really bad. I mean seriously. lol
Let me pose this question. Let's just say for a minute you get industrious. You swap over some early A body disc brakes, master cylinder and proportioning valve. IF an inspection discovers it, what's the worst they'll do? Fine you? One time? If not much, it might be worth it.
I would however, see if anybody else has done a 10 inch conversion in a 13 inch wheel before I ordered parts and paid shipping to only find that I couldn’t use some thing, and then be stuck with it someplace where nobody else could use it either.
Though someone with 14 or 15 inch wheels would be a potential sale.
If nothing else, I do like the air ducting option.
Though someone with 14 or 15 inch wheels would be a potential sale.
If nothing else, I do like the air ducting option.
TAK65
Well-Known Member
A fine would be just fine
..no, it will fail the inspection and the only way to pass is to convert back to drums. A guy I know just did that a few years back, had a nice VW van with historic plates, converted to front discs and then converted back to drums. So no way I'll risk that.
That makes zero sense since you're making the car safer for the road. Oh well.A fine would be just fine
..no, it will fail the inspection and the only way to pass is to convert back to drums. A guy I know just did that a few years back, had a nice VW van with historic plates, converted to front discs and then converted back to drums. So no way I'll risk that.
TAK65
Well-Known Member
Well I am originally from Finland so I better look for them when I go back in the summer
Yes, you might find finned things in Finland. lolWell I am originally from Finland so I better look for them when I go back in the summer
TAK65
Well-Known Member
Sense? C'mon, this is Spain.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
9 inch
finned drums 5 on 4 inch PCD
Repro Finned Rear Brake Drum, Spring, & Clip Set : SV1-VG FITS Chrysler Valiant | eBay
finned drums 5 on 4.5 inch PCD
Repro Finned Rear Brake Drum & Spring Set VH-CM FITS Chrysler Valiant | eBay
provided drum depth is ok these will fit. Mopar in stud spaceing and centre bore
9 incn US and canadian drums fit my aussie car so aussie drums should fit a US Canadian mexican derived car
i.e the stuff that ended up in spain as local production or CKD Kits via chrysler Europe in Belgium ie spanish dodge desoto fargo.
designed for Track Pack Pacer and Charger RT in Oz
part of the gear homologated for raceing in 1970-72
the best improvment to mopar brakeing in my view is disks on the front and work on bias, either narrower rear cylinders or an upgrade to later rear brakes to get rid of the 60s duo servo design.
taller tyres bigger rolling radius at the back also helps.
let the front disks do the job properly without having to back off becasue the rears locked up in an alarming way.
your experince may differ Bitumen/TarMac highway or Concrete highway tyres water and temperature play a part
Dave
finned drums 5 on 4 inch PCD
Repro Finned Rear Brake Drum, Spring, & Clip Set : SV1-VG FITS Chrysler Valiant | eBay
finned drums 5 on 4.5 inch PCD
Repro Finned Rear Brake Drum & Spring Set VH-CM FITS Chrysler Valiant | eBay
provided drum depth is ok these will fit. Mopar in stud spaceing and centre bore
9 incn US and canadian drums fit my aussie car so aussie drums should fit a US Canadian mexican derived car
i.e the stuff that ended up in spain as local production or CKD Kits via chrysler Europe in Belgium ie spanish dodge desoto fargo.
designed for Track Pack Pacer and Charger RT in Oz
part of the gear homologated for raceing in 1970-72
the best improvment to mopar brakeing in my view is disks on the front and work on bias, either narrower rear cylinders or an upgrade to later rear brakes to get rid of the 60s duo servo design.
taller tyres bigger rolling radius at the back also helps.
let the front disks do the job properly without having to back off becasue the rears locked up in an alarming way.
your experince may differ Bitumen/TarMac highway or Concrete highway tyres water and temperature play a part
Dave
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bcschief
Well-Known Member
TAK65
Well-Known Member
One more concern; does anyone KNOW for sure if the finned 9" front drum will fit in an early 13" rim? Not really into ordering another thing that does not fit.
Be very certain that the image you see is that of the actual drum, not merely a stock photo. You won't want to purchase a drum based on a photo with fins, and discover upon receipt the photo doesn't represent the actual drum. There are some Centric drums out there for sale that use the same photo for several applications.
As long as you have 3/4" or so between your current drum and wheel, you should have enough clearance.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
So, you can convert to a dual master cylinder, but, you can't use a later better factory braking system? Yeah, that makes sense.....
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I found that the original 1963 13" wheels don't work with the '65 and newer 10" drums. The '65 and newer 13" wheels will work with the 10" drums though. The difference in the wheels is the stamping of the center hub part of the wheel. You can tell the difference easily by the slots in the wheel. Wide slots are the early version that don't work, the narrow slots are the later ones that do work. You might be able to grind on the wheels to get clearance, but, I never tried to do that and don't know if you can gain enough to make it work or not without compromising the integrity of the wheel.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
You might run into the same clearance problem that I mentioned when using early 13" wheels with the later 10" brakes. You would need to get outside measurements of both to compare and to see if you even have a chance at them working.
TAK65
Well-Known Member
You're not allowed to do that either, I just took a risk assuming they'd be stupid enough not to notice.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
here we go 9 inch for the front in 4 inch pcd
Front Brake Drum, 9" : suit AP5 AP6 VC VE VF VG FITS Chrysler Valiant | eBay
R and s Series austrlian valiant (61/62 plymouth valiants imported in kit form all US parts )
Aussie production Ap5 up to VF series used 9 inch drums with 4 inch PCD
VG was the cross over year
VH- CL used 9 inch with 4.5 inch PCD but most had disc brakes...
so if you want 9 inch drums front or rear with 4 inch PCD serach VE Valiant on australian sites
if you want 9 inch drums front or rear with 4.5 inch PCD search VH valiant on australian sites
if you want finned 9 inch drums for the rear in 4 inch PCD look up VF VG valiant Pacer
if you want finned 9 inch rear drums with 4.5 inch PCD search VH valiant charger RT R/T
if you want disk brakes for the front on a small balljoint car the easiest to fit on a small ball joint car would be aussie disk stub axles and VJ valiant rotor hub caliper and bracket the stubs hubs and rotors are mopar specific but the calipers were used on mopars and GM holden and hence are still widely available and as usual 30% cheaper from the GM shop.
an aussie disk brake stub takes small balljoint and small bearing hub.
US brackets for slider calipers bolt on, its a 3.5 inch centres mount on the stub exactly like a US stub.
most aussie stuff is mid 60s A body all they did 1970/71 was move to the bigger PCD
numerous different calipers were used
VE solid rotors unique caliper
VFVG/VH solid then vented rotors Kelsey hayse pin slider on a bracket
VJ onwards Girlock slider bracket like a claw with plates to hold on floating claiper much Like USA A M body but just different enough to ngate mix and match
later used a PBR caliper
all cars had 13 or 14 inch wheels
Valiants in Oz
loosly grouped around US content and start off close to US models
R/S 61 62 (plymouth Exner design)
Ap5 Ap6 looks like an early baracuda (A P stands for australian production versions 1-5 were fins n chrome 50s cars based on dodges.. too early to worry about)
VC 67
VD obvioulsy not used nobody wants a car with VD
the dart like bodies
VE 68
VF 69
VG 70
Unique aussie designed A body front with mid 60s B body width rear end cars
VH/CH 71
VJ Cj 74
VK 76
CL CM to the end of production in 81/82 used bigger brakes and PBR calipers
for people in countries where you need to import parts anyway..if you go hunting in Australia you will find early A body compatible parts
keep in mind total production of aussie mopar cars 61-82 amounted to about the same as 1 model year in US. small retail market = higher prices
this may have errors i live in the uK and was last in Australia 20 + years ago.... use a mid point model VE 4 inch pcd and VH 4.5 inch pcd to search.
keep in mind this is Chrylser/Mopar nobody redesigned anything unless they had to..... satellite companies in far flung places just used last years US technology unless local content rules dicated say...a local axle or a transmission....like in OZ
australian drums never had the big flared cooling skirt that some early a body US ones did
Dave
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bcschief
Well-Known Member
But those are not finned which was the point of the original post.
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