Firm Feel Road Race Leaf Springs

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Rice Nuker

Rice Nuker

Let the Coal Roll!
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Well, son of a birch.. I got a set of A body Firm Feel "road race" springs about 6 months ago. Supposed to be 1" or 0 arch, cant remember now..
Seems like the part number (s) are "circle track" springs on other websites.

Reason I bought them springs is primarily because I like burning lots of gas out of going around hard curves in the woods in Yosemite or elsewhere, friggin fast, so as to perturb the hippie environmentalistic tourists from Europe and simultaneously thoroughly enjoy my glorious afternoon in America the United States. Currently I have to do this in a mint Jensen Interceptor cause my A body isn't on the road..

The thing is, the springs are slightly long in the front half, putting my rear tire a little further rearward (1/2")than stock.
Anybody try the Firm Feel A body road race leafs?
Anybody try the Firm Feel A body front spring hanger?
Firm Feel claim the new front hangers they carry for A body will cure my 1/2 inch rearward issue as the hole(s) in the spring hanger is a little shorter / further forward..

Anybody hear of this situation (springs being 1/2 inch longer than stock A bodies)?

Freaking kind of pisses me off currently.
The springs were more expensive on Firm Feels site than other sites but I wanted to support their business. I fairly certain this is the unit part number P4529414..

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I have used the circle track springs from Mopar performance and they are as you described. Not sure why they added the 1/2", but on my circle track car it did not matter as the fenders were opened up anyway. The spring rates were quite soft and I thing they were for dirt track racing and not pavenment which would require a stiffer spring. Its hard to compare rates, but I am quite sure they were softer than the 340 spring I was using before. This was on a 74 duster.
 
Yes the springs have a little longer front section so you need the shorter hangers. I'm surprised that you got the springs and not the matching hangers as you really need the complete set in order to do the job correctly.

The front hangers are part number AR118. I sell a lot of those hangers to A body guys who are running the circle track springs. Never heard an issue with them so they must be working for people. The circle track springs are a little stiffer than the stock springs so you'll notice the difference in ride. My AR118 hangers have two eye bolt holes so you can adjust the ride height. Be sure to verify the pinion angle as it might need to be adjusted after to change springs and hangers.
 
AndyF said:
Yes the springs have a little longer front section so you need the shorter hangers. I'm surprised that you got the springs and not the matching hangers as you really need the complete set in order to do the job correctly.

The front hangers are part number AR118. I sell a lot of those hangers to A body guys who are running the circle track springs. Never heard an issue with them so they must be working for people. The circle track springs are a little stiffer than the stock springs so you'll notice the difference in ride. My AR118 hangers have two eye bolt holes so you can adjust the ride height. Be sure to verify the pinion angle as it might need to be adjusted after to change springs and hangers.
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Thanks for the feed back fellows. I appreciated it!

I was planning on drilling my factory hangers when I got closer to the road but now have figured that getting it precise would take more than simply my makita drill and a ruler.

Hey Andy, do you have a website or a business? Do you sell springs and such or..? I was kind of thinking that if my springs turned out to be too soft could I add a particular leaf to change the characteristics. Would you think this could be achieved? I have not researched this as I have not been on the road to see where my baseline is.
 
i have bought a bunch of parts from Firm Feel,sway bars,box. dick is great to deal with if you talk to him,he really knows his stuff.
 
wracks71 said:
i have bought a bunch of parts from Firm Feel,sway bars,box. dick is great to deal with if you talk to him,he really knows his stuff.
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Yes, I have talked to Dick several times. He is super friendly. Purchased a hand full of gear from him already. I think their pricing is pretty much on the high side but specialty items arent cheap i reckon.

I just got a little sketched out when I received the leafs and they ended up 1/2 inch longer, made in mexico, part number on them crossed over to dirt track / oval track type springs, and on most other websites the same part number was easily 20 percent cheaper..

I guess if worst comes to worst and they are too soft, I will consort with a professional to modify the leafs to tune them more to my needs. Maybe put in a couple leafs out of a 4wd ford ranger or dakota. Maybe not..

I have heard really good things about their steering boxes.. I plan to buy their T bars for both my dusters, and ucas with the poly bushings for my other duster..
 
Have you tried the road race springs yet? How do they affect ride height / handling? I'm planning a suspension rebuild on my dart and am looking for something that takes the curves well.
 
I year ya. Cornering is fun and important in life. Unfortunately I have not installed my suspension components. I have been building a shop. I bet I will have some info in 2 or 3 months, as I have to entirely strip / disassemble my car and go thru it. Generally I am sitting around doubting that the springs will be firm enough. I will probably mod the springs with extra leafs from some SS springs or search for some stiff but low arch leafs to add. If I had it to do over I would prob buy ss springs and have them de-arched. That fellow autoxcuda may have some good advise on springs. I plan to ask his advise on several topics.
Thanks for asking..
:)
 
Good deal It'll be another 6 months till i can drive my car anyway (I live in MN). Make sure you post on here when you get going, good luck!!!
 
dart0571 said:
Good deal It'll be another 6 months till i can drive my car anyway (I live in MN). Make sure you post on here when you get going, good luck!!!
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Hay, thanks. I take it you are doing a pro touring type road car?? I am building a road touring machine as well, that leaves a cloud of dust and oil as a signature.
 
Rice Nuker said:
I year ya. Cornering is fun and important in life. Unfortunately I have not installed my suspension components. I have been building a shop. I bet I will have some info in 2 or 3 months, as I have to entirely strip / disassemble my car and go thru it. Generally I am sitting around doubting that the springs will be firm enough. I will probably mod the springs with extra leafs from some SS springs or search for some stiff but low arch leafs to add. If I had it to do over I would prob buy ss springs and have them de-arched. That fellow autoxcuda may have some good advise on springs. I plan to ask his advise on several topics.
Thanks for asking..
:)
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I'd run those Circle track spring first before modifying them. Adding leaf will change the arch. The little more rate than stock circle track spring allow the car to plant and transfer weight out of the corner. BUT they have a stronger front segment to keep the springs from wrapping up. Save the effort modding the rear springs and get good shocks. The low arch in the springs keeps from rear steer you get from spring arch.

I have Hotchkis rear leafs and they "look" like less spring than stock. And are a smaller spring stack. BUT the front segment has two huge second leaf to keep the spring from wrapping up. Also has one leaf on top of the main spring to keep from. hopping under braking.
 

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Hotchkis huh.. Thanks for the information! autox.. I like that anti-wrap (anti-unwrap) on deceleration feature. makes me think some consideration went into making the springs. May be an option if I am unhappy with my springs. I will definetly be running some fairly good (single dial qa1s) in the back. Fronts start with hd kybs and graduate to qa1s unless I find something else in the price range. Do you have any specific model shock to recommend?
Pro-touring / Long road racing is my orientation. Thanks again for giving us some insite.
 
Rice Nuker said:
Hotchkis huh.. Thanks for the information! autox.. I like that anti-wrap (anti-unwrap) on deceleration feature. makes me think some consideration went into making the springs. May be an option if I am unhappy with my springs. I will definetly be running some fairly good (single dial qa1s) in the back. Fronts start with hd kybs and graduate to qa1s unless I find something else in the price range. Do you have any specific model shock to recommend?
Pro-touring / Long road racing is my orientation. Thanks again for giving us some insite.
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Those Firm Feel circle track springs are proven pieces too. Don't bum out about them. Run them like they are. You have good shocks to go with them if you allready have QA1's.

I'd go with all four hotchkis bilstein shock for $400/4. Excellent and less $$ than the QA1's.
 

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Rice Nuker said:
Hay, thanks. I take it you are doing a pro touring type road car?? I am building a road touring machine as well, that leaves a cloud of dust and oil as a signature.
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I like a car that handles well, this is my first try at anything modified on the suspension and I want to get it right on a budget. I've been looking at the circle track springs as an option. I'm mostly focused on the front end right now. My main goal is to do a few passes at the autocross they run during the Car craft summer nationals in St Paul. It would have been fun to do a before and after run but my car isn't safe to be driven right now. (currently 9" drums all around and 40 year old suspension)
 
Yeap dart0571, that jensen interceptor (factory 440 / 727 w 308 posi) we have up at top of the thread, when it showed up, had 21k on the clock, and had been sitting in a garage for 30 years. It handled, ran and rode like total hell. It was completely scary above 80 mph. It weighs around 4200 lbs and was all original with 2 inch dual exhaust, narrow tires, and huge clogged up rusted out mufflers. All the rubber suspension bushings were falling apart.

I had coils and leafs custom made to essentially f250 specifications and put single dial qa1s on the corners with poly-eurothane everywhere and an 1-1/4 sway bar up front, it had about a 3/4 or 7/8 front bar originally. It is totally pro touring now. Carves the corners tight and true and is predictable and fun to drive. Fortunately it has what appears to be forged or cast solid double a-arms up front and 4 wheel dual piston discs so those have limited amounts of flex and reliable stopping power. There is nothing like a massive re-work using stiffer balanced parts and preferably larger rims with lower profile wider tires. My flippin /6 duster I bought in good running condition, handled and rode like it was on jelly doughnuts connected to rubber bands, my 360 duster aint much better. I hope to get my 360 duster tight and firm..

In my opinion, firm springs, applicable sway bars, firm bushings, subframe connectors, and good shocks will get you miles ahead. 15x8s with low profile tires are cheap and are just tonnes better than a 14 x 6 rim with 215 70 14s. Advanced parts like tubular a-arms , strut rods, 18" wheels n tires, lightweight components, roll cage and exotic fancy stuff would be more icing on the cake. I think a person can, by carefully selecting components, build a great cornering basic suspension platform for fairly cheap.

One thing I have noticed is that after market autozone or similar - passenger car shocks are just crap for anyone expecting performance from their suspension. Of course I have never officially road raced or autocrossed so my experience is simplistic and oriented towards the late night middle of nowhere highway road racing events.

I feel like a bitchen shock for pro - touring or even more aggressive track type driving just will not be found for cheap.

Autoxcuda mentioned the hotchkis shocks for a hundred a corner which is extraordinarily interesting. I am going to be looking into them, as I have not bought shocks yet. I have a pair of 3 month old stupid kybs for the front of my duster, but will probably not keep them. I ran the kybs on the jensen for 3 months (500 mile road trip) and they were weak on dampening, but that car is heavy with very stiff spring rates, so they may be less depressing on an a-body.

I am interested to hear how you progress with your suspension and parts selection process. If you want, drop some details into this here thread :)
 
Hey Autoxcuda, I would like to ask your opinion.. What do you think about the stock location of the upper rear abody shocks?

Seems that having the shock operate in a 45 degree angle to the rear end reduces the efficiency of the shock by a considerable amount. I noticed on newer ford f150 trucks they have the rear shock essentially vertical and near to the wheel as possible (outside the frame rail). Seems that would be a good mod to try to mimic on the a-bodies...
 
Rice Nuker said:
Hey Autoxcuda, I would like to ask your opinion.. What do you think about the stock location of the upper rear abody shocks?

Seems that having the shock operate in a 45 degree angle to the rear end reduces the efficiency of the shock by a considerable amount. I noticed on newer ford f150 trucks they have the rear shock essentially vertical and near to the wheel as possible (outside the frame rail). Seems that would be a good mod to try to mimic on the a-bodies...
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There's a reason they are at a 45 degreee angle... The exhaust system and the frame rails take the space above the shock. Also some side forces.

No worries, they just design the shock to take into a account for the loss of effective rate.
 
I looked at the hotchkis bilstein shocks on their website they sell a stock height and a lowered shock. Do those oval track springs make the car considered lowered?
 
dart0571 said:
I looked at the hotchkis bilstein shocks on their website they sell a stock height and a lowered shock. Do those oval track springs make the car considered lowered?
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I believe so. I have not run the oval track spings personally though. But I would take a good guess they are going to be pretty low as they are listed as zero arch or something. The Hotchkis springs are low and the shocks that go with them are the lowered ones.

Call Hotchkis M-F and ask them. Ask for Drew and tell them Steve Wall with the 68 Barracuda sent you. If they need measurements I can get them for them.
 
The top leaf spring is the Hotchkis springs. The bottom is my 40+ year old 340 Formula S spirings with probably around 200K hard miles on them. I've overloaded them many times in the 80K miles I've put on them.
 

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I have my firm feel "road race" springs on my 73 duster. The are very definetly lowered. Mine were one inch arch or zero arch, I cannot remember. Dick at firm feel said they have been running these for years and had very good results.. Unfortunately the car is mostly stripped/ gutted now, so no accurate judgement on lowered height, nor any point in taking a picture as it wouldn't be a good representation. We were jouncing up and down on the car couple weeks ago and I felt like the springs were fairly soft (no shocks on it).. Based on autox's advise I am going to run them babies with good shocks and see how it acts. Thats good advise, test first, modify if necessary.
 
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