First step to restoring my 1974 Duster; Front End rebuild (coilovers needed?)

-
O

okan74duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2023
Messages
97
Reaction score
17
Location
Germany
Hello everyone.

First project car here, got me a 1974 Plymouth Duster (318). I am currently stationed in Germany so before getting it shipped here I had the transmission rebuilt.

The transmission guy told me that when you give her gas at around 50 mph the front end starts to swerve.

That said, I found this article Fix Your Duster Suspension Now! Simple Pieces Make It Easy. and put all the stuff of the part list to my cart. I am posting this thread to get an insight between 1973 vs 1974 models. The one in the article is a 1973 and I am wondering if it will all fit.

Does anyone know of a rebuild kit? Not sure if I want to spend $4k for coilovers, unsure if coilovers is the move here. The disc brakes is a must, or so Im told.

Thank you all in advanced.
 
I'd rebuild with quality stock-type parts. Lots of aftermarket brackets for drum spindles are out there. If you decide to go coil-over....look at HDK.
 
MMissile said:
I'd rebuild with quality stock-type parts. Lots of aftermarket brackets for drum spindles are out there. If you decide to go coil-over....look at HDK.
Click to expand...
Any particular kit you have in mind? Also are coil-overs a must? I know the disc brakes are, not sure about coil-overs
 
Coilovers are nice but NOT necessary. The stock torsion bar suspension works very well once you learn how it all works. It's biggest drawback would be that the bars get in the way of many types of headers... but companies have been making headers that fit for many decades, there are still plenty of options.
My point is, if you really want to spend the $$ on the coilover conversion that's fine, but don't let anyone tell you that the stock stuff is trash.
As far as disk brakes go, I have stock style disk brakes on the front of my dart from a '73 duster and I feel like they work amazing for what I need them for. I do have the larger 11.75" rotors but even I will admit that they aren't necessary for my style of street driving.

That link that you posted would be basically the route I took and the only thing left for me to do is add the sway bar. I have been happy with my dart so far but the next big upgrade would be to swap out my steering box with a borgeson unit (I hear very good things about firm feel as well).
 
Take a look at PST and grab one of their front end rebuild kits. It'll be way less than $4k, and you'll be happy with it. They are a vendor on here as well and offer a nice discount.
 
FORGET THAT ARTICLE

FORGET coil overs

FORGET Tube upper arms

WHAT YOU NEED

REPLACE all bushings with brand name bushings, and all four ball joints. Inspect the steering linkage and replace the pitman arm if it's worn, the steering box and coupler if they are worn, and replace the tie rod ends

If you do NOT have an factory anit sway bar, get one or an aftermarket. If the car has V8 torsion bars, "try" them and you can replace them later.

Replace the shocks with your choice of a good heavy shock.

Get it aligned or learn to align it yourself, but DO NOT use the "book" figures if you are aligning it for radial tires

TIRES make a huge difference

REPLACE the bushings int he rear springs and make sure they are not too "saggy" and replace the REAR shocks. DO NOT jack the car up "rear high."

THEN GO FROM THERE. If it's still a bit "unhandly" for you try heavier T bars like from PST
 
^^^Later on^^^ If you decide you are an auto cross/ road race son-of-a-gun, THEN you can ditch the stock suspension and put something fancier in there BUT THE STOCK FRONT ENDS can be made to handle well
 
Also if you do NOT have a factory service manual, send me a PM / conversation. I have a copy of a digital 74 manual free for postage. Too large to email
 
BTW 73 should be the same as 74.

There may be a couple of things slightly different, but for the most part- same.

IIRC The biggest differences will be drum brake vs disk brake stuff.
 
YY1 said:
BTW 73 should be the same as 74.

There may be a couple of things slightly different, but for the most part- same.

IIRC The biggest differences will be drum brake vs disk brake stuff.
Click to expand...
If you are saying the service manual, the wiring is quite different each year in all years 72--76

Mechanics is likely pretty unchanged
 
67Dart273 said:
Also if you do NOT have a factory service manual, send me a PM / conversation. I have a copy of a digital 74 manual free for postage. Too large to email
Click to expand...
Hey, thank you! I do have the Haynes Manual, if that will suffice.

I am extremely new to this :D
 
67Dart273 said:
If you are saying the service manual, the wiring is quite different each year in all years 72--76

Mechanics is likely pretty unchanged
Click to expand...

OP is asking about front end parts.

I'm more versed in B body stuff, but sometime between 73 and 74, B body front ends changed from thread in ball joints to press in.
It's kinda hard to tell them apart sometimes, so be sure before you press one out, that's a fast way to ruin a control arm.
 
...and I agree coil-overs are absolutely NOT "needed" or even IMO desirable.

The torsion bar suspension was ahead of it's time and can even be adjusted and fine tuned.

Coil-overs IMO ruin the "Mopar" factory feel of a well designed system.
 
Last edited:
I assume since you're in Germany your standard of a "good-handling car" is higher than here in the States. Instead of wasting your money on a coilover conversion which is unnecessary on these cars except for better header clearance, try these:

-- 1.03" or 1.08" diameter torsion bars (or similar), I like Sway-A-Way myself but there are many vendors for those now
*-- Adjustable strut rods
*-- Delrin lower control arm bushings
-- Box the lower control arms (weld a plate with holes on the bottom to tie the two halves together for strength and rigidity)
-- Front and rear sway bars, Hellwig or Firm Feel are the only brands that fit well and the rear should be adjustable
-- Tubular upper control arms, mainly so you can align it with more caster for modern tires
-- Bilstein RCD shocks/dampers

(Items with the "*" mean they need to be installed together to get the full benefit)

All these parts you can get from @BergmanAutoCraft , hit up Peter he's a great guy to deal with and super knowledgeable.

For disc brakes look at DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components he has various levels of kits. The 11.75" Stage 2 kit is probably what I'd go for, I have the 10.95" ones on my '70 Duster I swapped from a later A-body and they're sufficient for hard braking up to about 80-90 MPH. Doctor Diff also sells a rear disc brake conversion kit.
 
MopaR&D said:
I assume since you're in Germany your standard of a "good-handling car" is higher than here in the States. Instead of wasting your money on a coilover conversion which is unnecessary on these cars except for better header clearance, try these:

-- 1.03" or 1.08" diameter torsion bars (or similar), I like Sway-A-Way myself but there are many vendors for those now
*-- Adjustable strut rods
*-- Delrin lower control arm bushings
-- Box the lower control arms (weld a plate with holes on the bottom to tie the two halves together for strength and rigidity)
-- Front and rear sway bars, Hellwig or Firm Feel are the only brands that fit well and the rear should be adjustable
-- Tubular upper control arms, mainly so you can align it with more caster for modern tires
-- Bilstein RCD shocks/dampers

(Items with the "*" mean they need to be installed together to get the full benefit)

All these parts you can get from @BergmanAutoCraft , hit up Peter he's a great guy to deal with and super knowledgeable.

For disc brakes look at DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components he has various levels of kits. The 11.75" Stage 2 kit is probably what I'd go for, I have the 10.95" ones on my '70 Duster I swapped from a later A-body and they're sufficient for hard braking up to about 80-90 MPH. Doctor Diff also sells a rear disc brake conversion kit.
Click to expand...
This is a great combination of parts right here. The only thing I'll add is a new set of leaf springs, although the factory ones may work for you until you want to tackle replacing them. Just avoid super stock springs.
 
okan74duster said:
Hey, thank you! I do have the Haynes Manual, if that will suffice.

I am extremely new to this :D
Click to expand...
No, not Haynes. You need the factory manual. The newest one you can download, free, from MyMopar is 73. THAT one will be essentially the same as what you need EXCEPT FOR the wiring.

Send me a PM / conversation. I will give you a copy of the 74 manual free. You will have to mail me a USB stick (the files are large) with a return mailer
 
Since you have a 74 as well. I may have digital copies of the TSM (technical service manual) for you.
 
As said earlier replace the upper control arms, but if you don't break the upper ball joint loose with everything still together as it will help hold it all for you. And the job is a bit of work.
 
we have many of the components that have them mentioned above available. We ship worldwide and as a member of the forum we offer a discount. I would suggest at least going with a 1 in torsion bar and a good quality set of shocks. If this is primarily a street car, I would rebuild the front end components with either rubber or poly bushings. Please PM with any of your questions.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top