First time going to the track. Any advice?

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Bobzilla said:
Nothing wrong with that all for a first passes down the track.
What rear end ratio? What launch rpm and technique? Kind of sounds like a small highway gear and did not see much wheel spin, although it’s hard to tell. Nothing wrong with highway gears, just wondering.
In the video driving to work, it kind of looks like the steering wheel is almost 90 degrees turned to the right while you were driving straight. If so, get the front suspension and steering linkage looked at really well and get a front end alignment. Get a print out with readings before and after. May be possible everything is fine and something was installed crooked.
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It’s got 3.73 gears but I have a pretty tall tire on it. I was leaving at 1900 rpm because that’s where the converter was stalling. My suspension is actually pretty good as I’ve redone most of it. The steering wheel needs to be clocked in believe. I’ve just grown use to driving it that way at this point lol
 
one think at a time and verify.
for example my first test is shift rpm. I know my car, and i know that the first run down the track, get the ET slip throw in the garbage because it will be the slowest ET of the day. Then two runs at set rpm, to more at raised rpm, and on and on until it slows.
I would then compare the 60' time with it stalled a 1900 rpm compared to just off idle.......it just might supersize you.

What is "a" petty tall tire 25".....29"???
 
So I went back to the track. Put a 750 Holley on the car and a 2800 stall converter. Got the car to the mid 13’s. Ran a 13.39 @103 on street tires. I’m super happy with the car and going to try to get into the 12’s next! Here’s a video of you wanna see it.
 
doopdoop67 said:
So I went back to the track. Put a 750 Holley on the car and a 2800 stall converter. Got the car to the mid 13’s. Ran a 13.39 @103 on street tires. I’m super happy with the car and going to try to get into the 12’s next! Here’s a video of you wanna see it.
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The cars pretty slow out of the hole because I couldn’t leave with any rpm or else I’d spin
 
Throw a 100 pounds in the trunk.
Yes 100 pound will slow you .10 on your et..........But if it nets your self .10 quicker out of the hole or off the line. that a win.........

Loosening up the front end will help plant them rear tires as well.
Looks and sound good:thumbsup:
 
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What shock do you have on the front end and are you running a front sway bar?
 
Cudafever said:
Throw a 100 pounds in the trunk.
Yes 100 pound will slow you .10 on your et..........But if it nets your self .10 quicker out of the hole or off the line. that a win.........

Loosening up the front end will help plant them rear tires as well.
Looks and sound good:thumbsup:
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I have 1 1/8” torrision bars in it. I have a set of 6 cylinder bars laying around I’m going to install. That’ll help a lot.
 
103 mph is enough to get into 12's, just get it to leave the line a little stronger and yippeee!! :)
 
70aarcuda said:
that is true...but you wont get there with a 2800 stall converter....
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well, I know i have a unique situation, but i ran 13.13 with a factory stock converter and 2.94's. I would think a 2800 stall and 3.23's would punch me in the 12's slicker than Mrs Butterworth's syrup. I think he'll get there....
 
he may get into the 12...but not with 103 mph and 2800 stall converter....if he up his trap speed to make up the lack of 60 ft times...ok....but not at 103....
 
70aarcuda said:
he may get into the 12...but not with 103 mph and 2800 stall converter....if he up his trap speed to make up the lack of 60 ft times...ok....but not at 103....
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my trap speed is 101.x mph consistently. But I'm cutting much better 60 ft than he is, even though he has a much better converter and gears. I'm not comparing my car to his, I'm just using it for an example of why I think he'll get there. I'm just saying he has 12 second potential if he keeps working with it.
 
70aarcuda said:
he may get into the 12...but not with 103 mph and 2800 stall converter....if he up his trap speed to make up the lack of 60 ft times...ok....but not at 103....
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If I get the car to leave won’t I have more time to get more mph? I don’t really understand all this stuff yet lol. Just know that 13.39 feels so fast to me
 
If you decrease your 60's by leaving better your covering the distance quicker (faster ET) therefore you have less time to build mph and effectively reducing the distance.....103mph is barely enough to run a 12.9 but you'd have to run 1.79 60's or better.
 
doopdoop67 said:
I have a gas adjust shock no front sway bar. 1 1/8” torrision bar. Going to install some 6 cylinder ones I have laying around I think it’ll help
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That front end didn't have that much lift.......now i know why! The stiffer the spring the slower the lift(aka weight transfer to the rear tires.
The /6 t-bars will get the weight to lift and plant the back tire.:thumbsup:
these should help a lot and help on the gear ration(better 60' times)
Mickey Thompson 3019: ET Drag Slick 22.0 x 8.0-15 | JEGS
At 22" tall they my look out of place, unless you install some shorter tire up front.....BUT THEY WILL HOOK!

When i first started out i had a set of 22/?/15 Pirelli tires on the back, because i had 2.76 gears in the back.
Take my standard 26 inch tires off the back,put the Pirellis on to go race and then put the tall one back on to go home.
This worked well until i got my 3.91s and then, them little Pirellies just wouldn't bit any more.
It looked dorky as my font tires were 25" tall and my back was 22"........ A revers Stink Bug Look.:wtf::DBut it worked.

If you have the /6 bars already. That would be my first move. "0 dollar investment" and easy to change in a week end.........a couple hours if you have done one before.

Set the front adj shock as loose of a setting as you can get.(will extend with the least amount of effort).
 
Hot Metal said:
If you decrease your 60's by leaving better your covering the distance quicker (faster ET) therefore you have less time to build mph and effectively reducing the distance.....103mph is barely enough to run a 12.9 but you'd have to run 1.79 60's or better.
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So I need to figure out how to get more mph and make it leave harder.
 
doopdoop67 said:
So I need to figure out how to get more mph and make it leave harder.
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I’d hold off on torsion bars, shocks, and any other peripherals etc, and focus swinging for a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S’s. Or similar. Blowing money on all the suspension parts before having tires that can dead hook is putting the cart before the horse. Get it to hook, have someone slo-mo video using their phone, then you (and if you post the video here, others) can decipher what the car is doing and you can start systematically, methodically start working on all the chassis stuff.
 
doopdoop67 said:
Yes sir sears point has a mega shut down lol! I use to work there washing trucks at nascar nhra and Indy. Are you local?
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No in Vegas....Went to the nhra national events there for many years as I got free tickets...had a free room in Sacto....born and raised there..
 
A "slo mo" video would be way helpful, and one next to the car not across the way.
 
12many said:
I’d hold off on torsion bars, shocks, and any other peripherals etc, and focus swinging for a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S’s. Or similar. Blowing money on all the suspension parts before having tires that can dead hook is putting the cart before the horse. Get it to hook, have someone slo-mo video using their phone, then you (and if you post the video here, others) can decipher what the car is doing and you can start systematically, methodically start working on all the chassis stuff.
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I agree. I’m going to get tires and if it still doesn’t hook then I’ll start worrying about suspension. I’ve seen it in slomo and the car doesn’t transfer at all. The front suspension is very stiff but going to do tires first
 
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