Are you 100% sure of the master cylinder bore size? That's ONE HUNDRED PERCENT.
First time having manual brakes, are mine bad?
- Thread starter standup303
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No beatin up. These are hard to keep up with. I'm sure any help is appreciated.
mcodecuda
Senior Member
In the last 50 years I’ve had many Mopars. Some were drum/drum and some were disc/drum brake cars. Some with manual brakes and some with power brakes. They all used factory parts/combination and they all stopped without issues. The last one that I did was a disc/drum conversion on my ‘69 ‘cuda and it used everything from a ‘75 A-body and stopped perfectly. My next conversion will be on my ‘64 Belvedere which will use ‘75 B-Body parts.
What specifically are the brakes doing?
-Are you able to lock up any/all of the wheels during braking?
-You say the pedal is hard, what is the travel like? Can you depress the pedal at least a few inches with effort? Or is it rock hard and not moving?
-have you followed the bedding procedure for the new brake pads/shoes?
Do you have any pictures of how everything is hooked up?
I’m not trying to beat you up, but it seems like you’re making very general recommendations with a lot of speculation on master cylinder bore etc. There’s a lot of advice being given for the OP right now -which is great, but if we overwhelm the OP with completely unrelated information or speculation it stops being helpful.
A quick search here on FABO will show you that the factory master cylinders ranged from 15/16 to 1-1/32”, and that a lot of the members running manual disks prefer the 15/16” master cylinder bore diameter. But any master cylinder in that range should stop the car just fine, like you said, it’s just fluid dynamics and the components the OP is running have been shown to work great on other cars.
And it’s entirely too soon to say it’s the back brakes, because we simply don’t have enough evidence to say that. The OP has a bunch of new parts, a bunch of old parts that sat for awhile, and there are lots of different issues that could be causing the issue. 70-80% of the braking is done by the front, so if the braking is scary it’s much more likely a problem with the front, or a systemic issue affecting everything
Sounds like it’s a new one from DoctorDiff, which would mean it’s either 15/16” or 1-1/32”, as those are his options. Either should work fine as long as everything is hooked up correctly.
Is it? I missed where it was from Cass.
The statement that the front brakes assume 70-80% of the braking isn't entirely accurate if the car has stiffer suspension. The weight transfer in a stiffly sprung car is less due to reduced front end dive. Weight reduction through battery relocation, aluminum engine parts and headers also reduces weight and transfer.
Members that ask for help are often doing so when they are frustrated. I know that when I am pissed or frustrated, I have a hard time coming up with a solution. This may explain why some people don't explain their problems very well when asking for help.
Members that ask for help are often doing so when they are frustrated. I know that when I am pissed or frustrated, I have a hard time coming up with a solution. This may explain why some people don't explain their problems very well when asking for help.
Be sure to check the "proportional" valve(Piece of crap). They get clogged. They either work correctly or they don't.
And, of course they are difficult to get to.
And, of course they are difficult to get to.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
And explains why they sometimes will totally tune out good advice and spend $$$$ and time (theirs and many members time) dinking around the hard way.
Yes, I did that.
Whatever it is, good luck.
Whatever it is, good luck.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
If you replace the flex lines make sure you do both the front and rear and buy the steel braided ones the OEM rubber type tend to ballon under high pressure.
Good luck
Jim K
Good luck
Jim K
i just replaced the brakes on my 67 dart gt vert 340 kh 4 piston calipers
the 2225541 master only had front brakes only could find it on ebag for silly money
I read all the post here went with the 15/16 bore from auto zone 57 bucks lifetime warranty
new copper lines all around the pedal feel is great very pleased the bore size is not the issue
the 2225541 master only had front brakes only could find it on ebag for silly money
I read all the post here went with the 15/16 bore from auto zone 57 bucks lifetime warranty
new copper lines all around the pedal feel is great very pleased the bore size is not the issue
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