First Time Out!!

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If you have a power valve in the front, I'd drop it to 71-75 and see what you get.

Don't get sucked into the total timing deal. Set the timing at idle until it kicks back against the starter when warm and back it off 2*. You'll have to reset the carb idle speed, it's likely going to pick up RPM. See what you get. It will be bunch crisper off idle. Then you'll have to alter the distributor, weld or jb weld advance plate, to get the total number you want. If it's OK now at 40*, then run it there for total. Check plugs for detonation specks. Some lighter springs to get advance in by 2500ish and you should be good.
 
Ok. So by welding the plate it's just to prevent farther movement of the plate past my desired total?? I've never messed with re curving. Last motor had crank trigger. Also, who makes springs for it? Just msd or whoever? Thanks.
 
You can get spring kits from Summit Racing or Jegs. You can also check your local parts store as some also carry the distributor spring kits. As far as capping the vacuum advance, when you are at WOT there should be no vacuum so the vacuum advance won't be doing anything. I would have it hooked up when you drive the car on the street.


Didn't mean to derail you thread earlier. Just thought you should be proud of your performance as you are matching my performance while being at a 42 cubic inch deficit. When you do purchase a converter, spend the extra money and get a good one. I wouldn't buy anything bigger then a 9.5" converter. The smaller converters gain efficiency and you can comfortably drive on the street with a much higher stall rating. If you mainly run the car at the strip, I would be looking for 3500-4000 stall as a minimum. Talk with the custom converter builders as they will be able to maximize the performance based on your engine specifications.

Have Fun!
 
Springs - Mr Gasket 925b

Use one of those and a light mopar spring.

The advance plate needs to be altered to limit mechanical advance. There are some threads and articles that show how to do this. Slot lengths, etc.
 
Right on. Thanks guys. I looked up some info about the distributor slots and it looks really simple. Might just take a few tries to figure out how much to limit movement. Everyone I talk to says go with a good convertor which makes sense. We have a local company that can build custom ones called TCS. Their reputation can be spotty but I think it depends on the info you give them also. We used one in the 9 second car and it always seemed to work with minimal slippage. I like that they are local so I have a person face to face to complain or chat with in case of issues.
 
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