FITECH EFI TUNING tips, info sharing, ideas, settings, etc...

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Rd2Scamp said:
The cost of a distributor doesn't bother me. What does is spending money on something that I dont need. Do you think that I need one ??
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I 98.99% KNOW you need one. The below thread is 2 years, and 58 pages worth of what I'm preachin :) we've all been round this block many times. Not picking on you, just pointing you in the correct direction!
FiTech EFI system

Ken a few posts back can attest to this. he was one of the few that got it to work AT ALL...and then still had enough issues to call me up. It's just worth doing right from the beginning.

now back to your fitech tuning tips! I'd like to see more power adder numbers from subcom and the others with forced induction!
 
I just found thread and only get car running a few months ago. Not many miles on it so far and just trying to learn more about the Fitech system.
 
does anyone know if there is a regular low dollar cap that will replace the MSD cap on the Pro Billet distributor. I need to phase the rotor more accurately and dont want to drill a hole in a $50 MSD cap.
 
Guys, hoping you can help out this B body. You guys seem to be better versed in the Fitech issues. I'm getting a bit desperate.

Engine: 440
Fitech: EFI 4 600hp
Vacuum: 7.5hg
Cam: Comp cam 21-225. Intake 240 duration at .050, total lift .507. Exhaust 246 duration, total lift .51. Lobe separation 110.
IAC at idle: 3-10. +11 to 21 when fan is on.
Timing control: No (Started with timing control but could not make it work. Fire but would not run)
Idle RPM: 900
Cam is set to #3.

Ignition is a MSD pro billet, MSD 6A ignition.

I've fought this thing for 3+ weeks now. Car is not yet driveable so everything is parked.
Initially I tried to run timing control but the car would not run. Fire but would not run. Tried all the tips I could find. Finally switched back to distributor with TACH setting.

Fitech sent me a new IAC since I did post periodic P0505 IAC faults as well. Replaced IAC with new one sent from Fitech.

The engine fired right away after the change, ran good, warmed up and settled into its learning routine.
It has a tendency to quit without warning. Posted some 53 faults, not sure what these are or the causes. Not all the time and not consistent.
I've done numerous steps to try and shield wires and even moved the coil away from the Fitech unit.

Car ran for 6 minutes this morning then quit on its own again. No faults posted. Once it quits on its own it will not start again unless I do a hard reset.
Ran it again for about 3 minutes, at temperature, with no problems but it did post some code 53 errors early but apparently worked through them.

I have been logging data for about 11 runs now and can't seem to find the issue in the data. I did notice that the Spark Advance readings seem very
"noisy". See the chart.

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Any suggestions out there? Not sure where else to look. I have emails into Fitech and will be calling again in the morning.

Thanks
 
Are you getting a "RPM noise" fault? I am running a 600 Power Adder on my new normally aspirated 418 stroker. When I was running the supercharged engine I had all my Ignition components still in the engine compartment. I had to shield all of the wires for the Fitech or I would get the RPM Noise fault. These fuel injection units are very sensitive to EMI radiation particularly the wire coming from the distributor to the throttle body. I am running timing control on my car right now. I will try to help as much as possible just ask if you have any questions.
 
superchargeddrt said:
Are you getting a "RPM noise" fault? I am running a 600 Power Adder on my new normally aspirated 418 stroker. When I was running the supercharged engine I had all my Ignition components still in the engine compartment. I had to shield all of the wires for the Fitech or I would get the RPM Noise fault. These fuel injection units are very sensitive to EMI radiation particularly the wire coming from the distributor to the throttle body. I am running timing control on my car right now. I will try to help as much as possible just ask if you have any questions.[/QUOT
superchargeddrt said:
Are you getting a "RPM noise" fault? I am running a 600 Power Adder on my new normally aspirated 418 stroker. When I was running the supercharged engine I had all my Ignition components still in the engine compartment. I had to shield all of the wires for the Fitech or I would get the RPM Noise fault. These fuel injection units are very sensitive to EMI radiation particularly the wire coming from the distributor to the throttle body. I am running timing control on my car right now. I will try to help as much as possible just ask if you have any questions.
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I have only seen fault code 53 so far. OBD code says it is overvoltage to TPS but data from logger show 0 volts or .5 most of the time.

I’ve slowly been working to shield all wires. Also will be replacing the coil as it is one of the few “old items” reused.
MSD unit is on the dash side of the firewall.

Next is shielded wires from coil to MSD. I’ll let you know.

Thanks for the reply.
 
David Sweet said:
I have only seen fault code 53 so far. OBD code says it is overvoltage to TPS but data from logger show 0 volts or .5 most of the time.

I’ve slowly been working to shield all wires. Also will be replacing the coil as it is one of the few “old items” reused.
MSD unit is on the dash side of the firewall.

Next is shielded wires from coil to MSD. I’ll let you know.

Thanks for the reply.
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Happy to help, let me know how it goes.
 
I have seen guys have so much noise interference with the Fitech I'm running 1200PA been on the car for two years, First off my 7531 MSD box is under the dash I'm running MSD pro distributor my coil is mounted on fender well. The Fitech does not control my timing just fuel I have tach input wired to gray wire on the box, 12v switched wire and the main battery wire and O2 sensor. I do have the battery cable hooked to engine block. The MSD box being inside car might be the biggest help.
 
My Mallory 6AL is under the dash now along with my regulator, starter relay, wiper motor resistor and 2 10 circuit fuse blocks one switched and the other constant battery. No noise issue st all now.
 
rdakota340 said:
This might just be the ticket separating everything.
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I can tell you that I don't get any issues with error codes at all now BUT since changing my exhaust from 2 1/4" to 3" it has wacked out my IAC counts and now no matter HOW I try I can't get them below 70 at hot idle. The car still runs fine but it bothers me that I am not within the 4-10 spec that Fitech recommends. I guess a call to tech support is in order, I will let everyone know how it pans out.
 
I think I would add a few Large Capacitors across the power and ground on that board. Not sure this is your problem, but it cant hurt.
 
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