hey everyone, i just installed a fitech fuel injection on my 70 dart...i'm new to all this so bare with me...i need to connect the fitech white wire to a wire in the dart that has constant power when the key is on and during crank...what wire would i tap into? would connecting it to the positive terminal on my ignition coil do the job? any help would greatly appreciate it!
Fitech white wire into key power during key on/crank
- Thread starter tx70dart
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
We just had another thread on this, LOL
IT DEPENDS on whether you are using an ignition system that still uses ballast resistor. IF NOT you tie the two wires on the ballast together and run them to the FI white.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
HERE IS WHY There are two ignition feeds out into the engine bay IGN1 "run" is ONLY HOT during "run." It goes dead during "start." To supply ignition power during "start" the (usually) brown bypass circuit, IGN2 comes from the key, out into the engine bay, and ties to the coil+ side of the ballast. This feeds "hot" battery voltage to the coil for a hot spark during starting.
All this essentially originates at the ignition switch. It only has so many outputs. They are:
1..."igntion run" usually dark blue, IGN1. Hot ONLY in "run."
2...."bypass" normally brown. IGN2, Hot only in "start"
3...."Start" normally yellow. Goes to the starter relay. Hot only in "start"
4...."accessory." Hot in either run or accessory. Feeds switched accessories through the fuse panel
All this essentially originates at the ignition switch. It only has so many outputs. They are:
1..."igntion run" usually dark blue, IGN1. Hot ONLY in "run."
2...."bypass" normally brown. IGN2, Hot only in "start"
3...."Start" normally yellow. Goes to the starter relay. Hot only in "start"
4...."accessory." Hot in either run or accessory. Feeds switched accessories through the fuse panel
famous bob
mopar misfit
I rewired my car a long time ago, the radio feed wire only gets hot in the run position, I tied my hot FAST 2.0 wire into it since they were both close together under the dash. Has been working fine for about 7ish yrs .
The fuel inj. was an afterthought add on after the rewire----
My ignition doesn't require the ballest resistor but I still wanted to retain the factory look. The ballast was disassembled and a 14 gauge wire replaced the "resistor" part in the back of it. Then simply piggybacked the white wire to either side of the modified ballast.
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