Fitech Wiring Issues

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I hear you brother, been there before with my Fitech system. Also make sure you have your timing set correctly. I started by making sure I was at TDC on number 1 (verify your rotor is pointing to number 1 post) firing stroke and advancing the engine about 15 degrees on the balancer. You then have to set your initial timing on the controller to match. Make sure you turn off the key and wait until the display goes black to save your changes. You can always remove your coil wire from the distributor cap and verify that you're getting spark.
 
She lives!!!!!!


Thanks to everyone for your input and help!!!!


So I went over all the wiring again after hooking up the brown and blue wire to the white Fitech wire.

Everything was hooked up correctly.

What was not hooked up was a ground on the throttle body. I made a quick ground. Jumped in the car. Checked the ignition setting and it was not set on VRCOIL. So I correct that and set it to VRCOIL.

Car cranked and fire off!

Now I just need to clean up all the wiring and crimp and heat shrink and should be good to go.
 
Very good.

Be wary of EFI wiring. Keep wiring dressed near ground, engine block or firewall to provide a shielding effect. Dress breakerless pickup and other sensitive wires especially, and keep them away from ignition wires. If you must go near HV ignition, try to pass them near 90 degrees, rather than somewhat parallel.
 
Nice job! Did you get an adjustable rotor for the distributor? If Fitech is controlling the timing, you'll want to follow the steps to check the rotor phasing. Their instructions are kind of confusing, but if you search here or ask, you'll get lots of help.
 
There you go, I knew that I should mention that and I'm glad I did. Now you just have to verify your timing and make sure your your display matches. Also set your IAC counts. I find that even though Fitech says 4 to 10 my car actually runs best at 50. If you need any more help just give me a PM. Now go drive your car!
 
Very good.

Be wary of EFI wiring. Keep wiring dressed near ground, engine block or firewall to provide a shielding effect. Dress breakerless pickup and other sensitive wires especially, and keep them away from ignition wires. If you must go near HV ignition, try to pass them near 90 degrees, rather than somewhat parallel.

That's absolutely correct. I went through many hours of moving and shielding wires because I kept getting RPM Noise error codes and the engine would just shut off like you turned off the key. Most of this was caused by the fact that all of the wiring was crammed behind the supercharger and there was very little room. After I built the 418 stroker I got rid of pretty much all of my engine compartment wiring and moved all of my electronics ( CDI box, voltage regulator, starter relay) to a panel under my dash. I also added 2 fuse blocks one switched and the other constant power. Ever since I haven't had any RPM Noise codes and my cars been running awesome. So 67Dart273 is right, you need to keep the Fitech wiring away from the ignition wires and where you can't shield them with something, preferably steel braiding or tin foil (you can wrap electrical tape around it to help the looks) make sure you ground the foil to the engine or body.
 
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