67 Barracuda uk
Member
I’ve got milling machines - so we will be able to mill them flat if necessary.
Good idea about the support from middle to end. Removing it will help pull the header down.
Fitting TTi headers on a 273
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Good idea about the support from middle to end. Removing it will help pull the header down.
67 Barracuda uk
Member
pishta
I know I'm right....
Mattax, tolerances stack up, could just be a slight shift on the mounts to give the required clearance. Also doesnt even need to be 1/8, I bet 16g would work too, just enough to give it a backing. 16g over a 2-3mm gap will provide plenty of support for a flange. UK's headers collectors are way up there, I think he has much more clearance/leaway than we usually see with full or 3/4 length headers. maybe just a kiss on the outside of the flange with a grinder. plenty of meat there.
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That sounds good. The trick will be fixturing it. Others do it. They may use a jig on a belt sander. Headers by Ed used to do it. Calvin Elston and all of the custom builders do too. This evening I can search on Speedtalk forum - I know it came up in discussions.
I kindof hesitated to post these here, but this what I found.
I did the best I could using a glass plate and sand cloth, but the overall arch was more than I could address. I wasn't terribly concerned using the fat gaskets and such a thick flange.
Your left side head pipe (US driver side) is definately different than the early production version (shown below).
Right side had a fair amount room.
What about slotting the bolt holes to the low side and pulling the header UP slightly when installing. That distance to cover for a decent sealing edge may be a reach on this one. Is that a possibility instead of welding on them or making a plate.
Jig that in a mill and be done in quick fashion. Or hillbilly it with a dremel or drill...
There have been issues before with tti and ported heads as well where the sealing surfaces are not close to each other. Only option was to tig them up and mill the surface.
Jig that in a mill and be done in quick fashion. Or hillbilly it with a dremel or drill...
There have been issues before with tti and ported heads as well where the sealing surfaces are not close to each other. Only option was to tig them up and mill the surface.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I've been using a big flat file, since the 60's. (and sometimes a welder and/or grinder/belt sander)) to true and change the angle the headers leave the engine, by filing the flanges.
It.s no big deal, it's a last resort for gaining clearances, but used to be absolutely nec. to get the old headers to seal.
It takes very little material off a flange to get 3/16 on a lower tube, or the collector.
It.s no big deal, it's a last resort for gaining clearances, but used to be absolutely nec. to get the old headers to seal.
It takes very little material off a flange to get 3/16 on a lower tube, or the collector.
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It’s amazing what you can do with a good 2 foot X 1-1/2 inch flat file and a good rythym. I’ve been told several times I looked like I was working on weapons in the Shaolin Temple...
67 Barracuda uk
Member
Thanks for putting the pictures on.
I’ve got the idea now.
They need to be perfectly flat to seal.
I’ll have a go at them tomorrow.
Thanks for your help
67 Barracuda uk
Member
67 Barracuda uk
Member
Hi there.
Good idea - I will have a look tomorrow- maybe possible.
I have a milling machine that I could slot the holes longer.
Thanks for your message.
67 Barracuda uk
Member
Thanks for your message.
This is my first Mopar so I’m learning all the time.
It looks like people have had this problem before.
It’s a good job I can come on here and ask questions.
I’ll have a go tomorrow- welding filing -milling etc.
Cheers
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I edited post #32 .
67 Barracuda uk
Member
Just a quick update.
I’ve welded my ports up on my new headers.
They are now machined on the face - so they are flat.
I’ve bolted each header to a piece of steel flat and tried a 0.002” feeler gauge under.
I couldn’t get the gauge under so they should all be good now.
Thank you all for your help
Mark
Excellent job, I would be proud to show that!
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Great job.
Nope, your car is fine Mat. Those shorty headers have never fit. Especially early A's. They were originally designed for trucks weren't they?
It's been a while but I think TTI always intended these for cars. They do not fit '66 and earlier. TTI had made them to fit them in a late 60s or early 70s A-body so I wasn't expecting complications. After tying Rob's lift for 3 days I made the decision to cut both our losses. There were at least 3 more modifications it looked to be needed to make them work. My car may just be on the tight side of certain production tolerances. The 340 headpipes made by Accurate hung low, and the distance from distributor cap to wiper motor is pretty tight. Not complaining - its good to have the engine as far back and low as possible.
I had them up for sale a couple of times and should follow up with the guy who bought them as far as fit and performance since they were going into an A-body. I had them coated with zirconium dioxide so curious about that as well. People have been able to fit the TTI shorties into A-bodies, I just couldn't do it on my car without a bunch of mods. Maybe certain combinations don't work out as well. Maybe changes have been made since then - the headpipes certainly have been.
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Just a few photos. TTI shorty's on a 68 Valiant 273. Driver side a bit tight but clears everything.Column shift requires their kit(photo)but the stock stuff can be reworked if you good at that stuff.
67 Barracuda uk
Member
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