Five year old crate engine

[Maxwel Nicoll]

So, I have a fairly nice 72 swinger special, 225 on a 3 speed auto. It is all stock and has the original engine. My dad and I took the engine out and bought a crate engine some 5 years ago. Now I'm putting it in and having a few problems.

First of all, do I need to take the oil pan off and clean or lubricate anything? I'm sure the valves need adjusted after they warm up but do they need anything before being run? I figured out how the flexplate bolts to the torque converter but one of the bolts is hitting something and the engine will not turn. Can if spin the engine and tranny backwards or will splitting the engine from the tranny help?

The other project on the engine now is what to do with the manifolds, should I just take them in or can I clean them myself?

 

[cudamark]

Heck, you're practically a neighbor! A lot will depend on how the engine was put together. If they used assembly lube everywhere, no other prelube would be needed. If you're installing a new oil filter, I would add a cup or so of oil inside and rotate it around so it soaks in. On a small block, I would fill them but on a slant it makes too much of a mess getting them installed before the oil leaks out. You'll have to figure out what is hitting the flex plate bolts. Pull them all back out and make sure they're all the same. Turn the engine over at least one revolution to make sure it's not something else causing the problem. Hopefully you didn't bend one of the flex plate ears during installation of the engine. If you did, you'll need to pull the engine out again and replace it. The manifolds are up to you. I don't know your level of expertise. I wouldn't bother with the exhaust manifold unless you plan on putting on a high temp coating of some sort. Regular paint won't last 10 minutes.

 

[Maxwel Nicoll]

I'll do that with the oil filter because it will be new, and I am pretty sure they used lube but the place I bought it from also did a test run to check it all out. With the engine was a piece of paper saying that the oil pan needs to be cleaned but it didn't come with the pan, I put it in later( and I cleaned it first).
I was thinking of putting some high temp paint on the exhaust but wasn't sure if I could do a good job at home.

 

[cudamark]

If the engine was run after assembly and broken in, there will probably be no assembly lube left on anything. I would pull the spark plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder, pull the valve cover and run oil down to the cam lobes, fill the crankcase with oil, and crank it over with the starter (without ignition) until the oil pressure comes up on a good live gauge. Then install the plugs and fire it up. You can also buy or borrow an electric pre-oiler but I don't think it would be necessary. If you're talking about putting a rattle can paint job on the exhaust manifold, I wouldn't waste my money. Never seen one last. Talk to Leanna on here, she may have a line on what coating will hold up. I've seen what looks like a powder coating on some that held up a long time. There are some ceramic coating that work good too but they're kinda pricey.

 

[pishta]

UHT 1200 exhaust paint with ceramic. Comes in white as I recall, did a set of headers and it actually lasted. Missed a few places and when I stripped the rust off on a wire wheel, the surface under the paint was still rust free. I did mine but have not fired it up yet. If it was started once after the rebuild, I wouldnt bother with the pre-oiling. These motors are tough and 3 seconds of dry cranking or idle with no pressure isnt going to kill it. Heard the story of the old lady that put radiator water in the slant's oil filler? She drove it in and said it was making a noise...she DROVE it in! Fact or fiction?

 

[cudamark]

I'll do that with the oil filter because it will be new, and I am pretty sure they used lube but the place I bought it from also did a test run to check it all out. With the engine was a piece of paper saying that the oil pan needs to be cleaned but it didn't come with the pan, I put it in later( and I cleaned it first).
I was thinking of putting some high temp paint on the exhaust but wasn't sure if I could do a good job at home.

Leanna's screen name on here is cudachick1968. She might know about a good exhaust manifold coating.

 

[xlexl]

UHT 1200 exhaust paint with ceramic. Comes in white as I recall, did a set of headers and it actually lasted. Missed a few places and when I stripped the rust off on a wire wheel, the surface under the paint was still rust free. I did mine but have not fired it up yet. If it was started once after the rebuild, I wouldnt bother with the pre-oiling. These motors are tough and 3 seconds of dry cranking or idle with no pressure isnt going to kill it. Heard the story of the old lady that put radiator water in the slant's oil filler? She drove it in and said it was making a noise...she DROVE it in! Fact or fiction?

Just my .02, International motors have been known to run for quite a while without oil, but it doesn't mean that I would do it. A little prep work goes a long way into maintaining the longevity of a motor and negating future issues. Doesn't take long to make sure there is plenty of oil pressure but the time and monetary savings down the road are huge.

 

[Maxwel Nicoll]

The work has slowed for lack of money, but the car is still waiting for me. I got the flexplate bolt tightened, a nice adventure.
Now I have to figure out the fuel and exhaust. I'm keeping the stock exhaust for now but can't put it on because of it being 40 years old and rusty. The gas tank is going to need drained and cleaned- no rusty tank goo in the nice new block. And I still haven't done anything to the manifolds. I have two pair that are different.
If I go with the old choke I need to find a choke cup thingy, or figure out how to do an electric. I also have 2 1920 carbs that have different numbers on them and want to do the original carb. And, how do you change manifold studs, I have a new set but the nuts have a different thread pitch?

 

[sireland67]

You can buy the choke housing from NAPA.
As far a the studs go to your local tractor supply or hardware store and buy the correct thread nuts.