Flex Plate Bolts...
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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I believe that the converter bolts have shorter heads than the standard bolts.... They may hit and make some noise if you use standard store bolts....
I make them out of the flexplate to crank bolts. I cut the head down to the 5/16 bolt thickness. If you need them let me know . I also should have an old DC flex plate flexplate . The bolts are $10 to cover shipping and lathe time. This is the second time I am posting this since the start of the thread. It was taken down for some reason.
What do you mean? Like how far the bolt holes stick out. I can cross measure.
I saw your original post, for today I am just going to get some bolts to get it all together then worry about some different flex plate bolts.
Round off the head of one bolt......one bolt! And now you have an issue with them? Come on! You know how many people use ARP fasteners (studs, nuts, bolts, washers etc) in general and the only way they get messed up is from the installer using a junky tool and/or improper use of the tool. Skip the grade 8 thick headed bolts . Buy the correct bolts for that torque converter.
The heads are thin for a reason. Use a quality wrench, not cocked or otherwise on the bolt head. That’s the only reason there was an issue in the first place with your head bolt. User and/or tool issue. Like I’ve said, we’ve all been there. To deny is just being in denial!
The heads are thin for a reason. Use a quality wrench, not cocked or otherwise on the bolt head. That’s the only reason there was an issue in the first place with your head bolt. User and/or tool issue. Like I’ve said, we’ve all been there. To deny is just being in denial!
That flexplate will not work. U can order a 440 source flexplate for $40.00. Get some better tools. Kim
I wonder why it was taken down. Maybe a moderator had him covered . LOL
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Tc installed. Just having some troubles with getting the vb to seat all the way. Checked the bands and readjusted them. Snug fit for double wrap band with wrench then back off 2 turns. Front band snug tight with wrench and back off 1.5 turns... per turbo action directions. Technically turbo action says not to adjust the rear band, so I just did it to some previous posts on FABO
Kick down band adjustment
Kick down band adjustment
The B&M flex plate is drilled for both sizes of bolts.
U said u stripped the head on an ARP bolt. So u need better tools. It have to be a lot more careful. Show us the socket that stripped the bolt with. Kim
Round off the head of one bolt......one bolt! And now you have an issue with them? Come on! You know how many people use ARP fasteners (studs, nuts, bolts, washers etc) in general and the only way they get messed up is from the installer using a junky tool and/or improper use of the tool. Skip the grade 8 thick headed bolts . Buy the correct bolts for that torque converter.
View attachment 1715904982 View attachment 1715904981
The heads are thin for a reason. Use a quality wrench, not cocked or otherwise on the bolt head. That’s the only reason there was an issue in the first place with your head bolt. User and/or tool issue. Like I’ve said, we’ve all been there. To deny is just being in denial!
I am always in denial... like today... I got the transmission in... but not all the way hooked up. So who wins the bet? Im denying that I lost the bet. Lol
Its just a 6pt husky socket. Its brand new, maybe been used 1 time before.
That's the problem.
I’m just
you. Talking sockets, if you were to use a socket on a bolt or nut head, and you had your choice of one of these that would ensure good engagement, low risk of rounding off of the fastener, which would be best? And which would possibly cause issues? Which might be more forgiving of user input and which would likely do some damage to the fastener if not careful?
I usually grab the 6pt sockets, because they are on the left hand side and I open the drawer with my right hand.... I've always been under the impression a good 6pt is supposed to be the best for reducing your likelihood of stripoing a bolt.
No I don't own snap on tools, all of my tools are consumer friendly purchase prices. Since I bought them before or while in dental school. They work for my needs.
Ps- I know a lot of thebsockets are missing... they are currently spread all over my 3 car garage...
No I don't own snap on tools, all of my tools are consumer friendly purchase prices. Since I bought them before or while in dental school. They work for my needs.
Ps- I know a lot of thebsockets are missing... they are currently spread all over my 3 car garage...
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I get by with cheap-er tools too, never broken one... my friends have but I guess that's the benefit of being slow and careful, I'm not a professional mechanic so I take all the time I need and use a soft touch.
For shallow-head bolts I take a socket and grind/sand down the end so the "teeth" are flush instead of recessed. I had to do that for installing the oil filter threaded adapter piece that holds the filter plate onto the block; very thin hex to grab, drove me nuts and then either I got the idea myself or from someone on here, I forgot lmao.
I just installed ARP main cap bolts in my 440 and notice with ARPs the drive heads are on the shallow side. I didn't have issues but I used the shortest socket possible and was very careful to not get it crooked on the bolts.
For shallow-head bolts I take a socket and grind/sand down the end so the "teeth" are flush instead of recessed. I had to do that for installing the oil filter threaded adapter piece that holds the filter plate onto the block; very thin hex to grab, drove me nuts and then either I got the idea myself or from someone on here, I forgot lmao.
I just installed ARP main cap bolts in my 440 and notice with ARPs the drive heads are on the shallow side. I didn't have issues but I used the shortest socket possible and was very careful to not get it crooked on the bolts.
You think Husky is a good tool. That's the problem right there.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
As far as cheap tools go, Husky does suck lol. Most of my sockets are Craftsman, Kobalt or whatever brand they sell at Ace Hardware I can't remember the name. For nicer pro-quality tools I like Cornwell but haven't had a need to buy any yet, might need a new 3/8"-drive ratchet soon my old Duralast POS has held up great but could be better.
Neither. KimI’m just
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Bingo!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Agree! Those look like they might be for a midplate application.
I would do some measuring before I threw a trans on with that converter!
Let’s keep things in perspective here. Any will work but you have to pay extra attention when using certainly the tapered 6-point.
For a 6 point thin head bolt/nut such as this:
Of the three sockets shown in previous post only this one is good. Flat end like MopaR&D mentioned.
Round off the head of one bolt......one bolt! And now you have an issue with them? Come on! You know how many people use ARP fasteners (studs, nuts, bolts, washers etc) in general and the only way they get messed up is from the installer using a junky tool and/or improper use of the tool. Skip the grade 8 thick headed bolts . Buy the correct bolts for that torque converter.
View attachment 1715904982 View attachment 1715904981
The heads are thin for a reason. Use a quality wrench, not cocked or otherwise on the bolt head. That’s the only reason there was an issue in the first place with your head bolt. User and/or tool issue. Like I’ve said, we’ve all been there. To deny is just being in denial!
Got the arp bolts
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