Floor Pan Install...

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19 Again..

19 Again..

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I'm getting ready to cut out the old floor pan (left side front and back 1 pc). I have the new one for replacement, which brings me to my question. I've read here, been told by others, and basically just wanting to know. Whats the right way to weld these in. I've been told to drop the new one in place trace a line leave about an inch of old material and weld to the edge of the old material. I've read to cut it exactly to fit, but most of the time cuts aren't perfect so patches are necessary. I know taking your time is the most basic rule, but is there a right way? I would think you might leave about an 1/8th to 1/4" of material as a lip (external), but I would think you would want to go underneath and weld the open gap between old and new closed...right??
I know there are plenty of you'all here who replaced 1 or all of them. Any suggestions would be helpful..
Thanks
(19)
 
The first thing I'd do is level the car front-to-back and side-to-side.

The cutting and welding part is personal preference. If you have good metal working skills, you could cut the new panel close enough to butt weld. Start your spot weld on one panel and swirl it over the gap.

Overlapping the panels is more forgiving, but they will always look like they've been overlapped. This is more important if you want more of a factory appearance.
 
Butt welding is the way to do it right. When you drop the new pan in and scribe your line remember your new pan is sitting on top of the old 1 so do your cut bout 1/2'' lower then your scribe, cut the old 1 out and clean the sub frame flanges hammer and dolly straight if needed, drop your new pan in and fit it, now you can trim to fit for butt welding.
I made the floor pan for my 66 here's a couple pic's.:burnout:
 

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Butt welding is more factory looking than overlapping and is cleaner looking.Some overlap on body panels that won't be seen like the inside of the quater.
 
Overlapping aloows room for error and material for future repairs. If it is cut exactly to size and but welded there is no room for error. If that same section should need replaced again someday, the same patch panel may not be large enough.
I wouldn't cot out any more than required, even if that meant trimming the overall size and or shape of the patch panel I purchased. Different strokes for different folks .
 
RedFish said:
Overlapping aloows room for error and material for future repairs. If it is cut exactly to size and but welded there is no room for error. If that same section should need replaced again someday, the same patch panel may not be large enough.
I wouldn't cot out any more than required, even if that meant trimming the overall size and or shape of the patch panel I purchased. Different strokes for different folks .
Click to expand...
True different stokes:I did the opposite,i replaced both front floor pans and the pass side had just a little rust in the bends but I replaced the whole piece figureing the new metal floor pan was a little thinker and more solid so i cut the floor and replaced with the new material.the factory floors alsted near 40 years so the new ones should be in till the rest of the body is replaced or gone.Just seal the under side real good especially the weld as they will rust faster than metal.If you decide to overlap make sure you seal the overlapping area underneath with something like seam sealer so no moister can get in there.
 
You bet Dart_Doctor. As I have gotten older I find it never hurts to ask for a little guidance on uncharted terrirtory. As I read these responses it all seems to be coming down to personal preferance. Complete and total fit, no lip, or leave a little and have some for "oopsies" if needed. Since I'm replacing the full left side from the seam above the gas pedal, along the tunnel all the way back to just past the rear seat hold down, I'm inclined to look at leaving just a tad bit of undercut. If all I was doing was replacing one of the footwell areas I think I would cut it for an exact fit. If my car was completely torn down where getting to all the areas that needed to be welded underneath and inside (like on a rotiserary, or casters) again I think I would cut and fit it exactly. I'm still liking the input and open to anyone else who has the experience that wants to weigh in on this.. Keep it coming...
"19"
 
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