Floorboards...
- Thread starter nodemon
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Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Wire wheel in a die grinder...
ACME SS
Well-Known Member
It depends on the condition. If crusty exfoliated rust but solid, sometimes a needle gun will knock off the chunks whereas a wire wheel will polish the rust chunks. I once removed exfoliated rust which was probably 1/8" thick from a Jeep frame and was amazed to find stamped numbers on the frame that were still ledgible on the frame. I also used a needle gun at a pretty flat angle on the firewall of a 54 chevy and it flaked off all the paint without denting the surface, right down to the factory red oxide primer! It was absolutely amazing.
But I see you are in CA so there is probably some pretty good metal. I don't think there is just one tool for the job. I'd probably use a DA sander with 60 grit on the flat areas, a needle gun on thick chunky exfoliation and a wire wheel on an angle grinder for large rusty areas as well as a die grinder with a small wire wheel for those narrow troughs. Harbor freight has these orange plastic brushes for die grinders which have abrasive particles in them and those work really good. I used them on my cowl vent slots with great success to remove paint.
Good luck. Only thing worse is hand sanding louvers in hoods.
But I see you are in CA so there is probably some pretty good metal. I don't think there is just one tool for the job. I'd probably use a DA sander with 60 grit on the flat areas, a needle gun on thick chunky exfoliation and a wire wheel on an angle grinder for large rusty areas as well as a die grinder with a small wire wheel for those narrow troughs. Harbor freight has these orange plastic brushes for die grinders which have abrasive particles in them and those work really good. I used them on my cowl vent slots with great success to remove paint.
Good luck. Only thing worse is hand sanding louvers in hoods.
Thanks for the input..!
I'm actually in Missouri, the other poster is CA. ..
I just purchased some cheap-o air Sanders, die grinders. I spoke with my body guy and re recommended I fill in the pitted areas with ...something, I can't remember now...lol. I'll have to get home to send me the info again... I will look for this needle gun thing you speak of.. ANYTHING to make this as painless as possible.
ACME SS
Well-Known Member
While I have never used it, the body guy may have recommended POR15 which is supposed to be good for encapsulating rust. It is a great paint for sealing rusty surfaces.
I bought my needle gun at harbor freight and it has worked fantastic when I have used it and it was very inexpensive. Just beware, it could perforate thin metal...but if that happens it was probably in need of replacement anyways. If you only have a few rust pinholes, I would not (unless it is in a structural area) replace it. Instead, you can use a fiberglass reinforced body filler. You will want stuff with long fibers. It can be thinned out with polyester fiberglass resin to make it more spreadable. This stuff is waterproof so if you thin it and spread it on the inside, a little will squirt out the exterior through the holes and it will seal the floor. I wish you the best luck on the project.
What he recommended is "3m panel bonding adhesive"
I was just going to do the POR15, but he said do the 3m..
ACME SS
Well-Known Member
So that is usually used to bond in lieu of welding panels together but your guy can probably help you better since he can see what you are dealing with. Good luck!
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