Flywheel and Clutch Advice (340)

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SGlez10

SGlez10

68 Barracuda
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Carson, Ca
Hi guys, I am in the process of changing my 68 Barracuda (1970 340) from automatic transmission to a 4 speed (1971 A833). I have in the images below a picture of the bellhousing that I purchased. I am looking for some advice on what flywheel to get? The bellhousing is a Mopar 69-71 4 speed 10.5 small block. Casting 2892482

What flywheel do you guys recommend?

Also, what clutch do you guys recommend?

My aim is to build the car just one notch above stock, it'll be a cruiser for the most part with a little fun when you want to punch it.

Let me know if you guys need more info from me to be able to help me out.

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Just get a stock MoPar 10.5 flywheel and have it resurfaced, slap in a Centerforce II pressure plate, clutch disc too and throw out bearing too! Brewers Performance also has all your 4-speed needs.
 
66340SEDAN said:
Just get a stock MoPar 10.5 flywheel and have it resurfaced, slap in a Centerforce II pressure plate, clutch disc too and throw out bearing too! Brewers Performance also has all your 4-speed needs.
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Is there a site you recommend?
 
I have one of those flywheels, I think. PM me if interested.
 
There is a guy on ebay that sells brand new 10.5 inch flywheels. He is from Minnesota. I bought two of them from him. No problems yet. Don't buy a diaphragm clutch unless you want to have problems with your clutch pedal not returning. Buy one that has the three fingers like they came originally. Just my two cents. I bought a clutch setup from rockauto. Been good so far. I'm sure I will have someone disagree me. Everyone has their own opinion.
 
CodyS said:
There is a guy on ebay that sells brand new 10.5 inch flywheels. He is from Minnesota. I bought two of them from him. No problems yet. Don't buy a diaphragm clutch unless you want to have problems with your clutch pedal not returning. Buy one that has the three fingers like they came originally. Just my two cents. I bought a clutch setup from rockauto. Been good so far. I'm sure I will have someone disagree me. Everyone has their own opinion.
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What’s the guys eBay name or page?

I was looking into center force clutches so that’s probably the route I’ll go. Not sure if those have what you’re saying but I’ll check.
 
CodyS said:
Don't buy a diaphragm clutch unless you want to have problems with your clutch pedal not returning.
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For a streeter
IMO, this advice is misleading at the best;
The solution to that is incredibly simple, and
the diaphragm style has several advantages;
Because it requires a fraction of the leg-power to operate, as compared to a Hi-Perf 3-finger, you can modulate engagement much better, and can toe-the-clutch effortlessly.
Also because it requires a fraction of the leg-power to operate, this opens the door to getting one with superior clamping force.
And it seemed to me that the CF clutch was less weight too.

To eliminate the sticking-to-the-floor-problem, you gotta do three things; 1) remove the over-center spring off the pedal assembly, and 2) only push the pedal down as far as you need to, to achieve minimum clutch departure of about .080, to disconnect the power, and 3) if you have to, if you have to, put a block on the floor to limit pedal travel.

The CF is my second PressurePlate, after bluing the crap out of a B&B.
I did not like the harshness of the CFII disc, so I swapped in a stock factory 340 disc. They don't last very long behind a 430 hp 367, maybe a year or two, but they are cheap and easy to replace, now that I swapped in an alloy case.
My CF was new in about 2002, and has probably 100,000 miles on it.

But I gotta warn you; with the CFII disc, at 430hp, it likes to break stuff behind it. So you better have the big U-joints and such. With the 340 disc, it tends to tear out the spring pockets and eject the springs, and/or shred the friction rings.
 
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