for those who did reply to my post

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trudysduster

trudysduster

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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for those who replied to my post with your comments I want to say this. When I did the post about being a little disappointed, there were no replies yet. not three. check the time. For those who wanted to know the vehicle. read the original post. I stated a 76 Duster. For those who decided to add a remark about the wiring diagram online, I stated I wired it like the diagram showed and it will not work that way. For those who talked about the blue and brown wire on the ballast resistor, I mentioned that all wires were out of the car. The car was dipped. I mentioned I was not a mechanic but I didnt say I was stupid. All I basically asked is where do you find a wire that would be from an ignition source that would be hot in the run pos. and hot in the start pos. I thought some of you may have done this before. I didn't ask for all the smart *** answers I got. If you want to help. I would appreciate it. If you don't, I understand. Oh, and by the way, I did mention something about being frustrated or something of that nature. Give me a break. I don't post here that often. I did find a wire that would start the car and it runs fine but it will not shut off with the key. Back to square one.
 
You are not making any friends by doing this stuff. Post on the ORIGINAL THREAD if you have more trouble. And stop fuming about whether or not we meet your high standards of tech support. Or, for a dose of reality, just try and get an answer about your Dell Hell, your Comcrap, or your Hurlit and Pukit computer.

IF YOUR WIRING is not original, we can't help you. We cannot see what you have

IF YOU GO to the MSD site or merely read the instructions, they do show how to hook power to the box.

Do'no whut else to tell ya
 
i didn't see the original post but we have a pro-touring duster we built that has always had starting issues, at least for the owner lol... never gives up issues...

but anyways, i just wired in a relay, the trick is to find a switched hot that WONT completly lose voltage during cranking.

so what i did was wire a direct line from the lug on the starter relay to the relay, then to the MSD so now your MSD will have power

now probe around and find a wire (think it was a ign circuit) and splice a wire from that to the relay. from there you can go right to ground. if you cant find a good switched power you can run switch and just put it on the ground side...
 
You can not have no wiring if you started it.Did you make your own harness,do you have a starter relay and I assuming you still have the original wiring inside....it does have the original ignition switch?
With some more information and possible pictures,we could tell you how to wire it.To me it seems a used or new under hood harness would do the trick.
TXDart
 
Most people here are happy to help. I have personally had posts with little to no answers. I think it depends on timing and when it pops up. That is why you see some posts with a comment "bump" to keep it in an active situation and more people can see it. I understand your frustration and you want to fix your car, but posting a negative comment like that won't win anyone over. Personally, I would love to help you, but I would have had to look at a wiring diagram and you have already done that. Don't let this get you down on this site. It is a wonderful resource. You just ruffled some feathers and got some upset commentary back. You had to expect that. Keep trying, and give a bump once in a while if no response. These guys here love to help.
 
Man, I love forum politics!

Anyways, just saw your line about - "will run, won't shut off" - This is a problem I've had with MSD ignitions before. They somehow feed themselves enough power to keep running with the key off through the ALT light circuit. You need to add a little diode - Google should tell you the specs. On Fords, you turn the key off and then hit the brakes - the power drain of the brake light kills the motor, it's a fun party trick.

This may or may not be your problem.
 
So... the car doesn't have any factory wiring and you want people to be "Carnac" to come up with what wires you need.

carnac.jpg



Nobody can answer the question because most of us are used to the factory wiring and color coding. You got the correct answer from Tony about what wires in your engine harness to pull power from which should, if the car is wired properly, kill the car at the ignition switch.

Get a factory service manual, study the wiring diagram ,and find the wires you need coming out of the bulkhead if you are using it or out of the column.

Get a test light and use it as designed, IT'S AN AMAZINGLY COMPLEX TOOL! :-D
 
crackedback said:
So... the car doesn't have any factory wiring and you want people to be "Carnac" to come up with what wires you need.

carnac.jpg



Nobody can answer the question because most of us are used to the factory wiring and color coding. You got the correct answer from Tony about what wires in your engine harness to pull power from which should, if the car is wired properly, kill the car at the ignition switch.

Get a factory service manual, study the wiring diagram ,and find the wires you need coming out of the bulkhead if you are using it or out of the column.

Get a test light and use it as designed, IT'S AN AMAZINGLY COMPLEX TOOL! :-D
Click to expand...

Right on the nose :cheers: Tap into the dark blue wire in the harness coming out of the steering column under the dash and connect it straight to the small red wire of the msd unit. If that doesn't work you have other problems with your wiring.
 
now that is what I was looking for. That might work. I have all the factory wiring but we cut out the wires that went to the ballast resistor because with a MSD box you can bypass it. I didn't know we would need the wiring for it because MSD said you wouldn't need it. MSD wiring diagram does not work on this application, but thanks for a useable response to my problem.
 
I have the original wiring harness minus the wiring to the ballast resistor and some of the wiring that went to options the car didn't have from the factory. Every piece of wiring and every nut and bolt was out of this car at one time. It has a complete 4 speed column instead of the automatic that came with the car.The block on the firewall is the same. I found one wire that stays hot during crank mode and in the run mode but It will not shut the car off with the key. I am assuming it isnt a ignition source.
 
crackedback said:
So... the car doesn't have any factory wiring and you want people to be "Carnac" to come up with what wires you need.

carnac.jpg



Nobody can answer the question because most of us are used to the factory wiring and color coding. You got the correct answer from Tony about what wires in your engine harness to pull power from which should, if the car is wired properly, kill the car at the ignition switch.

Get a factory service manual, study the wiring diagram ,and find the wires you need coming out of the bulkhead if you are using it or out of the column.

Get a test light and use it as designed, IT'S AN AMAZINGLY COMPLEX TOOL! :-D
Click to expand...

I just about pissed my pants from laughing when I seen Johnny.

Kenny
 
trudysduster said:
I have the original wiring harness minus the wiring to the ballast resistor and some of the wiring that went to options the car didn't have from the factory. Every piece of wiring and every nut and bolt was out of this car at one time. It has a complete 4 speed column instead of the automatic that came with the car.The block on the firewall is the same. I found one wire that stays hot during crank mode and in the run mode but It will not shut the car off with the key. I am assuming it isnt a ignition source.
Click to expand...

OK, first you said "the wiring was out of the car" or some such, now you seem to be saying that the INTERIOR wiring (underdash) IS IN the car?

What year was it again?

Go here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

and download the appropriate service manual

If your car is newer than 72, the 72 manual will still have somewhat correct wiring.

You can download "alternative" diagrams here;

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24

WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR is the layout of the bulkhead connector. You are interested in THREE wires coming through the bulkhead Some change color over the years but

"traditionally blue" is "ignition run" which feeds the high side of the ballast, the regulator, the alternator field, electric choke if used

"traditionally yellow" engages the starter relay

"tradionally brown" is the ballast/ coil resistor bypass for start, goes to the + side of the coil, originally hooked to the coil side of the ballast

THERE WILL BE ONLY one wire coming through the bulkhead that is hot with the key in "run." If not, go back to your connector going up into the column, and make sure it is "hot" coming out of the switch. You may have a wiring/ connector problem, or who knows---the switch may have gone south.

In your case with the MSD and no ballast resistor, you will want to identify the ign run (blue) and ign bypass (brown) and tie those wires together and feed them to the power wire on your MSD

BUT WHAT EVER YOU DO stop bitchin and compainin. You are not making any friends. Post ACCURATE information. We are not mind readers. And STOP starting new threads. So far this is about the third thread you have started on this subject.
 
trudysduster said:
I have the original wiring harness minus the wiring to the ballast resistor and some of the wiring that went to options the car didn't have from the factory. Every piece of wiring and every nut and bolt was out of this car at one time. It has a complete 4 speed column instead of the automatic that came with the car.The block on the firewall is the same. I found one wire that stays hot during crank mode and in the run mode but It will not shut the car off with the key. I am assuming it isnt a ignition source.
Click to expand...

Like I said connect the dark blue wire from your steering column to the small red wire on the msd unit. Then try starting your car. If it starts and shuts off like it should, you will know that that system works and finish your wiring from there. If it doesn't work you probably have a problem with your ignition switch or power to it.
 
Hmmmmmmmm;I think something got lost in the translation.Ok now im pissed!!!
 
OK, I apologize. You did finally say what year you were working on in your original thread. But you did not wire it like it said in the instructions. Nor do the instructions say to remove the wiring on your ballast resistor. You did that and how are we supposed to know that? So, that being said. Did you totally remove this wiring from your engine harness or did you backyard hack it off and tape it into the main branch of the harness?
The easy solution would be to untape it if that is what you did and connect your signal wire (small red) there. If you get a back feed and the vehicle stays running after the ignition is switched off, you can add a diode that would limit the backfeed. (Also covered in MSD's instructions). Now don't blame MSD or us because you expertly modified your vehicle wiring harness. (What was that comment on being stupid?)
 
So, you post an original question thread. Then when somebody doesn't answer you quickly enough, you post a ***** thread. Now, you post this ***** thread explanation thread. Google the term "drama queen". That's you.
 
TXDart said:
Man,I REALLY MISS JOHNNY !!!
Click to expand...

Me too, and I just don't get the hype over Conan. I never did think he was all that funny

I like Jimmy's intro, he is master of the stand up one-liners.
 
I,m dissapointed ya,ll havent fixed this yet. Not sure but wouldnt the blue off the voltage regulator work.
 
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