Ford 9" in 1965 Barracuda...an option?

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Barracuda 65

Barracuda 65

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I recently acquired a 9 " Ford rear end complete from a 1985 Ford Bronco. Is this something I could adapt to my 1965 Barracuda, rebuilt 273 V8/ 4 bbl./A833 4 Speed. It has the original 7 1/4" differential and is whining somewhat. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas I should consider?
Thanks,
Barracuda 65
2018-01-15 19.46.56.jpg
 
I have a 9" narrowed to stock A body width I'm going to put under my 64 Valiant.
 
Hard to beat a Ford 9”. I’m using a Ford 8.8” in my 65 Valiant, super easy to shorten and comes with disc brakes.
 
I'd keep looking for a sbp 8.75. Expensive; but boom; done. Little driveshaft work if you can't find an original. Otherwise an 8.8 from a 92 older Ranger; maybe shorten one side with a stock short side axle, but then there's wheels that don't match. and it's a ford part..But the drum brakes would work with your original brakes, just use an adapter to the metric lines or a double compression fitting..
 
Barracuda 65 said:
I recently acquired a 9 " Ford rear end complete from a 1985 Ford Bronco. Is this something I could adapt to my 1965 Barracuda, rebuilt 273 V8/ 4 bbl./A833 4 Speed. It has the original 7 1/4" differential and is whining somewhat. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas I should consider?
Thanks,
Barracuda 65View attachment 1715814625
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What size wheels are those, 15s?
 
Are the widths comparable, or are you gonna have to narrow it? Time to get out the tape measure. (If it's just a couple inches wider, the right backspace wheels can solve that problem)
Other than that, anything is do-able, if you want to bad enough.
 
I have 9” out a Lincoln Versailles. Fairly easy to install. I adapted e-brake cables and had a custom driveshaft built. 9” fords parts a lot cheaper and easier to find than 8.75. Due to the configuration of the ring and pinion you will need the proper gear oil from Currie.
Why Run Conventional Gear Oil?
 
Barracuda65, you did not say the width, but I think the Bronco rear end will need shortening on both sides of the pumpkin to fit the Dart, the Explorer rear will need shortening on only one side (although some people run them in the Dart as is, with different offset rims), and the Ranger rear end should be the correct width.

I don't know if the Ranger's correct width means the pumpkin is in the correct place for the Dart though; it may be offset compared to the Dart's transmission / driveshaft tunnel.

What's the gear ratio in the Bronco rear end? Is it what you want?
 
If your trying to keep it original down to the SBP cragars w redlines, then I would look for an 8.75 mopar SBP axle and bolt it in. If you go for the ford 9", redrill the axles, and drums for your 5 bolt 4" circle and put 7/16" lug studs in it.
 
Thank you all for your your feedback and input! I really appreciate it! I really do not know much about differential changes or what to do regarding this option. I would like to keep my same bolt pattern/Cragar wheels due to the expense to try to buy other wheels. I have thought about trying to go disc brakes on front and rear vs. stock drums also. I've got limited funds and 72 years old with minimal differential experience or changing from a stock set up to a different type set up. Any input and advice is greatly appreciated.
The reason I've even considered this is I can't find a used 7 1/4 differential with sure grip and the 9" Ford has an extra unit with Posi Trac. I would like to have the positrac setup one way or the other even if I had to trade the Ford 9" for and 8 1/4 or other set up that would work in the application, retaining the current bolt pattern and wheels.
I guess I'm asking for more than I can expect...don't know?!
Thanks
 
By the way...the Cragar wheels and tires are 14" with stock 4" X 5 Bolt pattern.
 
The lug pattern of a bronco is 5 x 5 1/2, so I don't think you'll be able to find wheel adapters to the 5 x 4 pattern. The axles could be redrilled, but I believe the hub in the center is not going fit your wheels.

If the 9" is really cheap it could be narrowed and new axles ordered with correct bolt pattern. Would probably be a lot less than finding a completely built A body 8.75.
 
bbab3 said:
I have 9” out a Lincoln Versailles. Fairly easy to install. I adapted e-brake cables and had a custom driveshaft built. 9” fords parts a lot cheaper and easier to find than 8.75. Due to the configuration of the ring and pinion you will need the proper gear oil from Currie.
Why Run Conventional Gear Oil?
Click to expand...
My 71 came with a Versailles rear, it fit perfectly. I replaced it because of the brakes, the odd offset on the axle, and the rotation on the housing ends. I've still got it, buy the 4.11 center section, get all the other parts for free. But I'm not shipping it so it'll probably still be here when I die.
 
Some say those 8.75 early sbp rearends are too expensive, but by the time you get something else under there it will cost a lot more, won't look original, and basically will be more trouble than it's worth; if you can't do most of it yourself. An original sbp rearend without center section is probably less than a thousand; then pick up an aftermarket pumpkin with posi, cut a driveshaft; still under $2k..
 
Uncle Bob said:
My 71 came with a Versailles rear, it fit perfectly. I replaced it because of the brakes, the odd offset on the axle, and the rotation on the housing ends. I've still got it, buy the 4.11 center section, get all the other parts for free. But I'm not shipping it so it'll probably still be here when I die.
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I am aware of the brake issue and that it can be updated with newer Cobra Mustang parts, as well as the pinion offset of this rear axle. But, what are you referring to in regards to "the rotation on the housing ends"? Thanks.
.
 
bbab3 said:
I am aware of the brake issue and that it can be updated with newer Cobra Mustang parts, as well as the pinion offset of this rear axle. But, what are you referring to in regards to "the rotation on the housing ends"? Thanks.
.
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If you look at them from the side, they are rotated about 1/8" of a turn from being squared up. So if you change to drum brakes and certain other brakes, it will be difficult to bleed them because the bleeder is not at the top.

Some people will cut the ends off and correct it, others will re-drill backing plates, others will remove the brakes to bleed them. It all sounded to me like too much hassle to keep a Ford rearend with notoriously poor brakes on a Mopar.

I made this as a template to use in redrilling backing plates for drum brakes before I found out there are several different axle offsets on those too. I gave up on the whole idea and replaced the rear end. You can see in the background that the housing is vertical as it should be in the center but the ends on this side are rotated CCW.

Yl4XEgj.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. Now I got to crawl under my car to see if mine is the same!
 
65TerrorCuda said:
How about find a free/cheap 7 1/4 somebody is giving away? Shouldn't cost much if you don't really need the beefier axle
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What I would like to find is a good original 7 1/4 Mopar rear end with posi unit, but that's probably not out there. that would keep it original and bolt right in.
 
Go into the parts wanted section, and offer the posi(?) 9" straight across for a A-body 7 1/4 sure grip.
If I had a 7 1/4 suregrip, I'd do that deal.
 
Here's the thing about the Ford 9". And not trying to talk you into it, this is just my story. A friend GAVE me a 9" out of a 1970 F100. Gave. Scott free. I cut the housing ends off myself with a large tubing cutter. They will make perfectly straight cuts. Then I took it to a friend and gave him the stock A body flange to flange width and he narrowed it to stock A body width and welded the Mopar housing ends on. I already had the housing ends left over from a project from years ago. So now we have a total of $100 in the rear end. My friend Matt down the road pressure washed it, sanded it down, epoxy primed and painted it RED. No charge, because I always help out with stuff here and there when he asks. After that, I got a 4.11 ring and pinion from Summit on sale for $129 bucks. I already had A body backing plates. I got A body brake shoes from OReilly. I have a commercial account. $11 more bucks. I rebuilt some A body wheel cylinders. $6. I got a Chrysler 8 3/4 brake line set from somewhere....Inline Tube.....Summit.....Right Stuff, hell I don't remember. It was like $25. All I have left is the pair of custom axles for about $500. So, that'll still be less than $800 for a complete Ford 9". That's well under what people are wanting for a complete 8 3/4 AND a stronger rear end with MUCH more available service parts. There's no down side.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here's the thing about the Ford 9". And not trying to talk you into it, this is just my story. A friend GAVE me a 9" out of a 1970 F100. Gave. Scott free. I cut the housing ends off myself with a large tubing cutter. They will make perfectly straight cuts. Then I took it to a friend and gave him the stock A body flange to flange width and he narrowed it to stock A body width and welded the Mopar housing ends on. I already had the housing ends left over from a project from years ago. So now we have a total of $100 in the rear end. My friend Matt down the road pressure washed it, sanded it down, epoxy primed and painted it RED. No charge, because I always help out with stuff here and there when he asks. After that, I got a 4.11 ring and pinion from Summit on sale for $129 bucks. I already had A body backing plates. I got A body brake shoes from OReilly. I have a commercial account. $11 more bucks. I rebuilt some A body wheel cylinders. $6. I got a Chrysler 8 3/4 brake line set from somewhere....Inline Tube.....Summit.....Right Stuff, hell I don't remember. It was like $25. All I have left is the pair of custom axles for about $500. So, that'll still be less than $800 for a complete Ford 9". That's well under what people are wanting for a complete 8 3/4 AND a stronger rear end with MUCH more available service parts. There's no down side.
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my problem is here locally I am not aware of anyone who is proficient in transforming the 9" to fit properly. I'm sure someone can, may contact local car clubs and see if they have a recommendation. Thanks for your input!
 
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