Frame connectors are installed!!!!

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cuda67

cuda67

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Well, the US car tool connectors are in.... Yea, it was more of a job fitting them than anything else. Once fitted, it took about 3 hours to weld in, after 3 hours or so of fitting. Of course this project will lead to another I didn't think I had. Found rust in the rear floor pans, not alot but needs attention.
You guys were right about the connectors, Wow, what a difference in the quality of the ride. I would swear it even ride quieter. Finished about 830 tonight so I didn't get much time to check it out but it sure felt better.
 
I believe you when you say it's quieter. It would tone down those famous mopar rattles and squeeks.
 
Shoot us some photos. We'd like to see! toolman
 
Subframe connectors are some of the best money I spent on my car. It's a world of difference.
 
Installing sub-frame connectors is the very next project I have planned. If `67 doesn't have a photo sequence, I'll photograph my install. Mine are Comp Engineering and are different from what was originally posted, but I'm more curious about the ride difference as my car is pretty tight to begin with.

Good post that needs pictures of your installation of the US Car Tool pieces!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Did you wind up installing them yourself? Did you have to pull the interior out?
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I did some of the prep work and fitting. I got tried of crawling under the car during the fitting process so I went to Pro Fab and got Matt to finish the install. The console and seats had to come out, the carpet is just pulled back. The issue of rust was a little tricky to weld, but Matt was able to get it done, although it took longer than I thought it would.
 
I really like to have some installed myself. I grabbed up a piece of square steel that is 2" x 3" wide (I believe) that I was going to fab up and have someone with more welding talent than I to weld them in. Sounds like there is more involved that just welding them in far as the way the car has to be sitting when they are welded.
 
I will take pictures of the completed job and post in a couple of days. I didn't take any pics of the install. I thought most folks on this site knew how it is done. The US Car Tool site has some pictures but they don't really prepare you for all the fitting that there is. They also show the install done on a rotisserie and that in no way gives a hint of what it is like doing it at home.
 
FASTBACK340 said:
This is courtesy of our friends over at Big Block Dart Dot Com.

[URL="http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml"]http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml[/URL]
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I thought about this layout but I just felt that the U S Car Tool ones being welded to the floor pan would be a little stronger, just my opinion. The 2x3 box would definitely be easier to fit. In fact there appears to be just fitting the length. The US match the floor pan contours and are welded along the length, not just at the front and back. It is all in what you think is right for you.
 
mullinax95 said:
I really like to have some installed myself. I grabbed up a piece of square steel that is 2" x 3" wide (I believe) that I was going to fab up and have someone with more welding talent than I to weld them in. Sounds like there is more involved that just welding them in far as the way the car has to be sitting when they are welded.
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Not really.Theres no right or wrong way to do this. As long as the doors open and close when your done!

But seriously,some guys do it on a frame rack or alignment rack.Others simply raise the car with the weight still on the suspension and level the car. Yet others weld em in when the car is totally stripped and on a rotisserie. They all work. I think for a street car simply raise and level is good enough and will require zero shimming of body panels and adjustment of doors as the car is already sitting as it naturally would.
 
cuda67 said:
I will take pictures of the completed job and post in a couple of days. I didn't take any pics of the install. I thought most folks on this site knew how it is done. The US Car Tool site has some pictures but they don't really prepare you for all the fitting that there is. They also show the install done on a rotisserie and that in no way gives a hint of what it is like doing it at home.
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I thought the US car tool ones are more money because they are custom cut and fit to your floorpans. So what extra fitting did you need to do?

I've heard their floorpans cutouts are not always right and you still need to do a bunch of custom fitting.
 
autoxcuda said:
I thought the US car tool ones are more money because they are custom cut and fit to your floorpans. So what extra fitting did you need to do?

I've heard their floorpans cutouts are not always right and you still need to do a bunch of custom fitting.
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That is about it, the cutouts to fit the floorpan aren't that close, you have to do quite a bit of grinding and trimming to get them close enough to be able to get contact to weld. You will have to make notches for the fuel line and take care with the brake line. You have to keep in mind any future fixes that you might need to do with the brake and fuel lines. The emergency cable might need to be re-routed. I don't have e-brakes so it wasn't a concern to me. I like the product and I am sure a more talented person wouldn't have any issues. The truth is that if I had had a drive on lift or any lift, I could stand under there would not have been any issues. I am not as flexible as I once was so creeping under cars 18 inches off the ground just isn't that easy anymore. U S Car tool connectors, including shipping, were 192 dollars. I think they are worth it, I just wish I could have done these things when I was in my 30's. Now that I have a few extra bucks now and then I also have quite a quite few years pass 30 to go along with them.
:-D
 
 
Man Joe, they look great. Now I know who to get to do mine in my 69. Are you up to it? HEHE!
 
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