Frame Connectors

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Burntorange70

Burntorange70

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I am thinking about geting some connectors for my 70 Dart. Has any body got a set of Mancini Racing's weld in kit? How are thay?

Also what ones do I need? Thay have 67-69 ones and 70-76 ones. I would think the 70-76 but then thay might be for the 108 wheelbase car and that means I need the 67-69 ones? I wish thay would be more clear about it.

Thanks,Russell
 
I got the M.P. bolt in ones from Mancini. I just welded them
in. No problems. Worked great. Fit tight to the floor boards.
Don't hang down at all.
 
Burntorange70 said:
I am thinking about geting some connectors for my 70 Dart. Has any body got a set of Mancini Racing's weld in kit? How are thay?

Also what ones do I need? Thay have 67-69 ones and 70-76 ones. I would think the 70-76 but then thay might be for the 108 wheelbase car and that means I need the 67-69 ones? I wish thay would be more clear about it.

Thanks,Russell
Click to expand...

those things are expensive as hell. if u have a welder handy. go out and buy some 1/8th ich 2 by 2 square tubing. or 2 by 2 1/2 to 3. prep well ad weld it up. probly much cheaper then ordering them things. flare one side and notch it so u can weld to the rear frame and trosion car with the flared side. notched for the back. i hope ive helped in some way/ probly not but thats my opinion on that.
 
I got the mancini weld -in connectors and they fit great on my 1971 Demon. Only drawback was cleaning the underneath of the car enough for welding. I cut some holes in the drivers side and inserted an angled tube so the e-brake cable could go through instead of hanging under. Actually, I didn't do anything. I had my students who are building my toy do the job. As far as wheelbase, it's simple to measure from center front spindle hub to center of rear axle.
kenny b
 
Mopar318Guy said:
those things are expensive as hell. if u have a welder handy. go out and buy some 1/8th ich 2 by 2 square tubing. or 2 by 2 1/2 to 3. prep well ad weld it up. probly much cheaper then ordering them things. flare one side and notch it so u can weld to the rear frame and trosion car with the flared side. notched for the back. i hope ive helped in some way/ probly not but thats my opinion on that.
Click to expand...

Ya I was going to do that but then I decided to go with ones that fit the floor pan.

kenny b said:
I got the mancini weld -in connectors and they fit great on my 1971 Demon. Only drawback was cleaning the underneath of the car enough for welding. I cut some holes in the drivers side and inserted an angled tube so the e-brake cable could go through instead of hanging under. Actually, I didn't do anything. I had my students who are building my toy do the job. As far as wheelbase, it's simple to measure from center front spindle hub to center of rear axle.
kenny b
Click to expand...


Do thay follow the floor pan well?
 
If you really want to stiffen up your car, you'll use 2x2 or 2x3 rectangular steel frame ties. i consider the us car tool ones "wannabes". Take your us car tool pieces before you install them and twist them. Can't do that with rectangular steel.
 
I just installed a set of US Cartools connectors here are some pictures.

DSC00893.jpg

DSC00892.jpg

DSC00889.jpg

DSC00896.jpg
 
I ordered mine from Mancini's as well. But they sent me the wrong ones. They sent me the ones for the 4 door A-body. I took a chance ordering from Mancini's (first order), they screwed up and it cost me. So if anyone needs subframe connectors for a 4 door a-body, 70-76. I have a pair for sale. Otherwise, I'll just have them cut down at the shop and they'll just end up being the most expensive subframe connectors ever!:angryfir:
 
I ordered some parts from Mancini's a while back & one of the things they sent me was not the part I ordered. I called them & they said to send it back & they'd send the correct part & credit my credit card for the return shipping since it was their mistake. They did everything they said they would. All I was out was my time on the phone & my time to package the incorrect part & take it to the Post Office. I couldn't have asked for more (other than the right part the first time, but it was no real problem).
 
Burntorange70 said:
I am thinking about geting some connectors for my 70 Dart. Has any body got a set of Mancini Racing's weld in kit? How are thay?

Also what ones do I need? Thay have 67-69 ones and 70-76 ones. I would think the 70-76 but then thay might be for the 108 wheelbase car and that means I need the 67-69 ones? I wish thay would be more clear about it.

Thanks,Russell
Click to expand...

I've got the mopar performance 108" bolt- in's on my '70 duster,but we welded them in place ..Summit sells them for $98.00..if you have a 111" wheelbase which i believe a '70 dart is,the price is $160.00..wow glad i got a duster...
 
Just checked,and Mancini's has the 111" wheelbase for $125.00!!!
 
Thrashard340 said:
I ordered mine from Mancini's as well. But they sent me the wrong ones. They sent me the ones for the 4 door A-body. I took a chance ordering from Mancini's (first order), they screwed up and it cost me. So if anyone needs subframe connectors for a 4 door a-body, 70-76. I have a pair for sale. Otherwise, I'll just have them cut down at the shop and they'll just end up being the most expensive subframe connectors ever!:angryfir:
Click to expand...

4 door frame connectors?

Did they send you a set for a Dart/scamp which was the 111" WB vs the Duster/Demon/Dart Sport 108" models?

The floor pans are the same for all the cars, 2 door, 4 door, 108 or 111" wb.

Too bad you aren't closer, I could get you fixed up adjusting those connectors for you.:cheers:
 
All these products are going to get nothing but more expensive as steel prices continue to climb.

My steel cost on projects is roughly 2-2.5x what it was about 3 years ago.

Another option is 1-1.5" .083 round bar. Cut 4 lengths and make a light bend around the floor pan, weld 2 pipes together. Box for the rear frame, and a 2"x6" .125 plate for the front mount. Pretty easy to make and relatively cheap compared to what the bolt ins cost. Just as effective.

The us car tools are flimsy until you weld them to the floor creating the "box" shape/member. Any U-channel is going to be more flimsy than a comparative boxed steel member of similar size. From a design standpoint, the floor being used as a structure plane is far superior to the 2x2 or 2x3 box tube that isn't attached to anything but the torsion x-member and rear frame stubs. I have a set of US car tool connectors that I haven't installed yet, not even out of the box, on a Duster. I usually build my own out of 2x3 .125, but, got the US pieces in a parts trade from John which worked out fine for both parties.
 
Crackedback, I agree with you. Welding to the floor pan looks way stronger than just at each end. Even though the tube is stronger. I think that is how the rest of the frame is on the car. Is it not?

Keith9291, Thank you for the pic's. It looks realy nice.
 
I've ordered from Mancini's several times and I've had no problems at all and very fast delievery.

Now, I bought a set of Comp Engineering sub-frame connectors that appear to drop down in the center. I wonder if I really want these on a street car.... I'll dig them out tomorrow and test fit them. Details to follow.
 
I bought a set of Comp Engineering sub-frame connectors that appear to drop down in the center. I wonder if I really want these on a street car.... I'll dig them out tomorrow and test fit them. Details to follow.[/quote]


Will there be pic's too? Please.:-D
 
Dude... when I say details, I'll not only include pictures, but probably a description of what I had for breakfast too. :-D

Of course I'll snap pics... That's the best way for everyone to see what works...and maybe what will NOT work.

Details (with pictures...) to follow. 8)
 
Burntorange70 said:
Crackedback, I agree with you. Welding to the floor pan looks way stronger than just at each end. Even though the tube is stronger. I think that is how the rest of the frame is on the car. Is it not?

Keith9291, Thank you for the pic's. It looks realy nice.
Click to expand...

Yes,thats how the original stuff is done.It's part of the strength of a unit body. So welding the UScartools ones to the floor would actually result in a stronger,stiffer car than just simply welding 2x3 tubing to the front and rear frames.

Definitely a plus for a hardtop model.
 
needsaresto said:
Yes,thats how the original stuff is done.It's part of the strength of a unit body. So welding the UScartools ones to the floor would actually result in a stronger,stiffer car than just simply welding 2x3 tubing to the front and rear frames.

Definitely a plus for a hardtop model.
Click to expand...


That is what I was thinking. Plus you would think that the UScartools weigh less than the 2x3 set up as well.
 
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