frame connectors

-
crackedback said:
The three sided units use the floor pan as a sheer plane/plate. They work very well.

Pick your poison here, round, square, weld to pan are all better than the factory set up!
Click to expand...
go jack up one corner of the car w/ those stamped connectors welded on it, then go jack one corner of one that has the 2" sq. tubing welded to the floor pan, and inside the rear frame, and see which one is stiffest, both cars have to have (or not have ) torque boxes.
 
I can jack up any corner of my car all the way off the ground with the contoured frame connectors and open and close the doors just like it was sitting level on the ground. The sub frame connectors make a great jack point too
 
Famous Bob,
I agree fully and I wasn't saying that a tube frame connector isn't the best. What I was saying is...... The convertible and Big Block A's have torque boxes. If you have never seen these you should ask/ look/ check them out. With torque boxes you cannot use regular frame connectors as they are sold because the rear is Boxed in are where there they attach. The connectors must be modified or make a custom set or US tool. I agree...frame connectors are a must and especially on a rag top. It's modified or custom connectors that are required. So yes, I have thought about it....I have had several drop tops.
 
marksmopar1 said:
Famous Bob,
I agree fully and I wasn't saying that a tube frame connector isn't the best. What I was saying is...... The convertible and Big Block A's have torque boxes. If you have never seen these you should ask/ look/ check them out. With torque boxes you cannot use regular frame connectors as they are sold because the rear is Boxed in are where there they attach. The connectors must be modified or make a custom set or US tool. I agree...frame connectors are a must and especially on a rag top. It's modified or custom connectors that are required. So yes, I have thought about it....I have had several drop tops.
Click to expand...

can agree w/ that. I also put a 6 point gage in mine, that did a bunch. I didn`t want a roll bar, but I knew the 505 would twist the body. one of my hemi`s twisted the body even w/ the subframe conn., back to the pits after a run and the door wont open, and when u try to close it-it just bounces off!--good ol days.
 
Anyone have pics of the Torque boxes?
I never knew the US car tools were welded to the floor. I hear it is alot stronger than the older "homeade" style.
 
Depends on power.
Don't matter what you use. I have frame connectors and homemade
Fender well supports and still cracked windshield on 67 BB cuda.
 
I went with US CARTOOL, a lot of work but they look almost factory when finished. Nothing your are getting done in a day, plan on scrapping your fuel and brake line. Note the rear torque boxes from US Cartool
as well, the fronts are there too but almost impossible to see in the picture.

20160506_163332.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks good. Lol i see you routed the parking brake cable through the connector. I did that as well
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
Looks good. Lol i see you routed the parking brake cable through the connector. I did that as well
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was hesitant to go this route because the car was so clean with no rust or patches on the floor ever, it spent it's whole life in southern CA. There was no real good solution for the parking cable, not sure what most guys do but it looked like the cleanest way to go for me, I wanted it to look like the factory could have done it. There was a lot of grinding time to make them fit the contour as well so I had nice welds, then I used some 3M epoxy seam sealer to skim coat the weld line. I don't have a lift at home and the engine was out so it was all done on the floor where you see it. I ruined a couple of shirts and suffered some burns but it was worth it, makes for a good war story.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top