Fresh Rebuild; not starting

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ClarkDart70

ClarkDart70

Street Machines Limited
Joined
Mar 17, 2011
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Plainfield, IN
Alrighty, I just put it all back in. The timing is set at top dead center with the ditributor rotor set at plug 1. I have spark and fuel. She'll turn over but she won't fire. Anything anyone can think of I might be overlooking?
 
You say TDC. Do you have it TDC on #1 cylinder, compression stroke? To verify, pull #1 plug, insert finger in hole, bump it over until you feel pressure trying to push your finger out. Then double check for rotor position, make sure it's pointing to #1 on the cap. You might also want to make sure the rotor is turning when you bump it over as well. Let us know what you find.
 
Got it to fire. Had to move all the plug wire one spot counter clockwise on the cap. Now my only issue seems to be a cooling issue.... my upper radiator hose gets super hot and the lower is cold. Does that sound like a thermostat not opening up or my pump isn't pumping?
 
Easy way to check, pop the thermostat out and drop it in boiling water. If you see it open it's not the t-stat. My demon was the same way when I ran it after a long time sitting and it just worked itself out when it got hot finally... I just think it didn't run long enough so the heat was all just collecting in there. But check that t-stat anyways and you'll be sure
 
I'm also going to try to burp the system to see if I have an air pocket in there.
My real concern is I had some lower end chatter at start up... it almost sounded like a flywheel bolt banging on something as it rotated. Anyways, I jacked the front end up to look under it just to make sure I didnt blow a seal out and as soon as the front end came up a foot the noise went away. What do you guys think about that? Its really quiet now and idles super smooth. The timing mark holds steady with a light on it.
My buddy thinks the pump might have just delayed priming up pressure right away.

Everything is torqued to spec.
All fluids are to fill lines.

It only made noise at start up.
 
Might have been hydraulic lifter(s) not pumped up?

The lower end should NEVER make noise.

For the record you do NOT set timing at TDC for a start up
 
Learn to set timing "static" where you want it to run.

1 Determine compression stroke. The timing mark comes up "for no1" and again "for no6" If the valve covers are off, bring the marks up about where you want the timing, say, 10 BTC or so, and look at the valves. When both no1 valves are closed, that is the correct stroke for no1 to fire

1A Alternatively, pull no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine until you START to feel compression. You may have to do this a couple of revolutions to get the "feel" of it. Immediately after you start to feel compression, wrench the engine slowly to bring the marks to "where you want timing" IE 10BTC or so

2 NOW drop your dist. in, rotor pointing to no1 plug tower. I always scribe the top rim of the dist. body so I know where this is with the cap off.

A Next, rotate the dist. RETARDED (CW on SB, CCW on B/ RB engines)

B Next, slowly bring the dist back ADVANCED. If you have points, watch for the points to open, using a test lamp across the points. If you have electronic dist, bring the dist until the reluctor tip lines up with the center of the pickup coil.

Once you practice this a couple of times, you will find the engine will fire and run just like it was parked overnight. This is ESPECIALLY important with a new cam, because you must IMMEDIATELY get the engine RPM up for breakin, and the last thing you want to do is fool around with a balky running engine just because the timing is off
 
Thats good to know. I didn't put a new cam in. I did notice as soon as it fired that the timing was spot on and the only hang up I have right now is what that banging noise might have been. It came from the passenger side rear of the motor and it sounded like it was underneathe it. Hard to describe but it was a cross between something hitting the bottom of the valve cover or a major exhaust leak at the manifold... neither of those are/were evident. Its gone now so who knows.
Tonight I'm going to pull the valve covers and make sure the top end is getting oil and then fix my thermostat issue. Thanks!
 
The noise could have been a number of things, But here are the questions that I have that I don't think was answered in the post, First off were the lifters primed prior to installing them? how long had the motor set before firing from rebuild? Was the oiling system primed before first start? Just from what was said I think lifters or rods slapping the crank if the engine wasn't primed.
As far as timing I always set the timing up for first time starts to 6/8 degres before TDC. Also prime the fuel system You want it to fire with in the first couple seconds.
Tim
 
I always drill a 1/16" hole in the thermotstat to allow air to pass. Some thermostats have a rivit type thingy that does the same. A small hole will not hurth anything in the valve surface. Just use care when drilling and get all the cutting out with air. Drop in boiling water to double check. Boiling water is free...Good Luck!
 
A lot of todays stats are not what they used to be.My best luck is with Mr Gasket,or Robert Shaw.Nothing but problems for me otherwise.My .02.
 
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