Freshen up a 904 in one weekend. Doable?

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Corrupt_Reverend

Corrupt_Reverend

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I'm real tired of my trans leaking like a sieve and its crummy shifts.

So I ordered myself a TransGo tf3 full manual valve body kit a week or so ago. I was planning on finding a second 904 to rebuild and modify but I'm wondering if that's even necessary.

The main problem is that the Dart is my DD so I want to keep down-time to a weekend.

What do you guys think? Is it realistic to think a 904 can be pulled, torn-down, rebuilt, and have the tf3 done all in 2 and a half days?

Also, I've been looking around at rebuild kits but I'm getting a little confused in the variety. Any suggestions for a parts kit that will have everything I need?

The transmission is original to the car. 74k miles and 43 years. Suggestions on what needs to be replaced and what doesn't?

I don't need it to be built up for the strip. I just want it reliable and not leaky. But I am definitely open to modification/upgrades if it's a matter of a little extra cash gets me a better end product.

It will be bolted up to a recently built 318 but it's nothing crazy. Just a little more compression and an rv cam.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.
 
Uh, yeah. Without a question.

This Kit:

http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/tk-12008c


The best way to deal with these transmission

Now, please inspect your bushings, I'd say minimal, replace the front pump, and output shaft bushing, with the direct drum not far behind, replace if you see any excuse:



The easy way to deal with them is cut them short wise with a hack saw blade BY HAND, and tap them out with a chisel; Re-installing them; toss the bushings in the freezer, and the part in the oven on low for 30 mins. Lube the bushing up right out of the freezer, then dead-blow with a block of wood, then/or a socket that is just the right size.

I'd use babbitt bushing for the front pump, and get a couple of them for practice. Front pump (babbitt), direct drum, and output shaft.

Don't forget to stake the front pump bushing!




I can e-mail you the ATSG manual so you have a walk through for it.



Almost forgot, get a selection (3 sizes) of direct clutch selective snap rings and thrust washers, so you can tighten that up too, and get rid of the wavy direct snap ring if you have it. The name of the game is tighten the specs up to as close to minimum factory specs as you can.

If you get confused about setting end-play, put the extension housing back on with gasket, snapped into place like your going to finish; then set the transmission on its end; then install the front pump, with a couple bolts holding it in place; then and set your dial gauge and base on top of that and check it out by pulling up on the input shaft with a pair of pliers.

A good way to remove the front pump, is cut some tops off of some 3/8 coarse thread bolts, the kind that thread into where the puller would, then give those studs a flat screw driver slot, screw them in as deep as you can, then thread a regular bolt in there crossing side to side of course.. Damn thing pops right off.


Everything you need can be found here:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=A500

Or here:

https://www.wittrans.com/


Enjoy!
 
Thanks for all the input poisonDart!

I've noticed all the kits I've seen only have one band (the front I think?). Does the other band never need to be replaced?

Also, the kit you suggested lists a front babbitt bushing as being included. Is that the one you're suggesting, or do you mean a different one?

Thanks again!
 
The rear band is something you can replace, but it pretty much never dies; if you want to be sure you can grab a double wrap rear band when you order everything. I'd grab another front pump bushing, they can be a pain to install, so you have a backup. Same with lip seals.


ALSO: get a rear sprag kit; springs and rollers! They are cheap and good insurance against over-run.


They way I go about building trans; it's better to have too much, then not enough! So as you surf and collect information, make a list. Then order it all; you can return what you don't need easily.



I could rattle on and on, I think that the basics are here though, it should work well!


AIR TEST EVERYTHING! Before you put it back together and after before you put it in; beg, borrow or steal a compressor and a 1/4 blower!

You can air test all clutch packs by lubing up the sealing rings and stacking the front clutch, direct cutch, and front pump together, then blow air into the ports. I sent the diagram so you can get an idea. You want to hear a confident 'thunk' on about 25psi.

If your kit doesnt come with a quick lip seal tool, you can make one out of a thin flexible plastic or use a thin feeler gauge to work the seal in, but one thing in common; is lube liberally with ATF and go slow and apply even pressure. Take your time.

If you can, grab a fresh converter. Unless you have a fire breather; a hi-stall from gotopnh.com is inexpensive and high quality; good stuff right there!


Refresh the post, I added a trick to remove the front pump. This will be a hard rocker!

Another helpful link:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6662487
 
It all depends on how much time it takes to remove and re-install , I built mine in about 2 hours and had never even seen the inside of an automatic before that , download the youtube rebuild videos for the 727 the process is the same , I think they might be stickied here .
 
Alright. Rebuild kit on it's way, TransGo kit sitting on my bench, youtube videos downloaded, pdfs saved.

I still need to order a sprag kit and thrust washer set.

Just to double-check, will these be good?

Thrust washer kit.

Sprag kit

I was ready to check-out but then noticed the thrust washer kit says '74 and later. Mine's a '72 and I'm not sure of the difference.
 
regarding the thrust washer kit: i learned few days ago that the thrust washers are different between steel planetaries and aluminium planetaries for the 904. So you should disassemble the trans first to have an idea what´s inside. Or you ask the supplier to send both kits and sell the wrong one later.....

Michael
 
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