Daves69
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, as is, does this pivot move and cause the outboards to open when you open the center carb or does it stay where its at?
Its what you need.................
Friends, lovers, Chevy cretins....Let's unf*ck a Six Pack
- Thread starter jos51700
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Hmmm, as is, does this pivot move and cause the outboards to open when you open the center carb or does it stay where its at?
Its what you need.................
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I'm ok with this. The EPA didn't mandate this idiocy in my alternate timeline 1975.
How? What's the fire risk?
Is it possible that the 340 is flat and the 440 isn't?
It's a solid rod, but doesn't mechanically actuate the outer carbs. It only forces them closed. Not sure why they would replace the factory linkage but since there's a bunch of new linkage sets on the market today, I guess that's common.
bought this setup a guy had on a boat , he's made it mech linkage and removed the vac pods from the out board carbs , since mounting it i've refined the linkage , still mech , no vac pods
picked up a barry grant set of demons for a six pack , put them on a b block six pack intake . came with this linkage and fuel tubes .
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
I made a 4 barrel Lokar cable work. But, this is temporary as I am going back to a tunnel ram and just wanted to try the six pack.
If you plan on using the six pack setup long term, I would buy the proper cable.
Like I said before, nothing is cheap when it comes to these.
i've run a twin inline fours and the six pack set ups , and on my 383 the twin fours (pair of 660 cfm holleys) won out on the top end but for low end the six pack won out . i've got a e body with a six pack and it roars top to bottom it's just power . that demon setup is for a 383 driver .
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
What's the correct cable for an A body? All I see are B/E?
Daves69
Well-Known Member
IMO, try it with that '69-'70 bracket in your 1st picture first.
There isn't one exclusively for a six pack.
My stock '69 bb 4bbl worked but had to be pulled further back in the bracket. The plates still opened fully.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Curious, what are the List #s on those? TIA
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
You are correct, if I planned on keeping it I was going to fab another Lokar or other aftermarket cable that would be a better fit.
@NoCar340 is very knowledgeable on this subject. Maybe he will join in.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Try it now, if you mean me.
kenelder
70 340 4spd 6 pack
Yep, still available!
For what it’s worth I’m using the A body standard 4 barrel cable on my ‘70 Dart, I’d guess the 2 barrel is the same….
Ken
For what it’s worth I’m using the A body standard 4 barrel cable on my ‘70 Dart, I’d guess the 2 barrel is the same….
Ken
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when my 65 880 383 was six packed , i used the two bbl throttle cable , even on the twin fours .
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Look up The Carburetor Shop in Forest Lake, Minnesota and talk to Dan. If he does not know, his father will.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I appreciate that but I'm going for the OEM look that didn't exist. Your setup looks sweet!!
kenelder
70 340 4spd 6 pack
Thanks! If you plan on factory air conditioning I don’t think the factory air cleaner will fit, but probably easy to mod. Besides, I’d go with a modern compressor anyway…..
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
This car has ZERO options on it other than automatic transmission and possibly power steering, both of which I hope to keep with the 440, even though I don't know how ps works on 440 A bodies.
I'd like overdrive on the car and since it's a 4 door with no slicks or drag racing, I'm considering how to go about adding a A-518 to this project while still looking 'factory'.
I may just keep the 3 speed automatic. What did the six pack cars have for kick down linkage and how close is that to the 4bbl linkage?
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kenelder
70 340 4spd 6 pack
Perhaps someone that has an automatic can answer that, mine have all been 4 speeds
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
The Six Pack throttle cable and kickdown linkage were specific to the engine, but...
I ran a 440+6 '72 Charger around Atlanta for a couple of years. The car was my daily driver so I didn't have time to f__k around finding "correct" parts. I used the later 1-piece 440-4V kickdown I already had on the car, which I believe I grabbed from a cop car. I used the Direct Connection carbs on it (4782/4783) but I see no reason that would change anything. I did the swap in an afternoon and don't remember chasing parts or modifying anything to work. Obviously I needed the Six Pack throttle and coil brackets, but I got original Chrysler stuff from work before I started the swap... yeah, this was awhile back.
For a cable, you'll want the '69-'70 B-body cable, assuming the firewall attachment never changed on A-bodies. I absolutely had to swap the cable (another new OE part) because the 4V cable had a longer housing. It came out of the firewall at a sharp angle, almost a kink. I'd already learned--on that same car--what results from that: A frayed inner cable. Mine went full bird's-nest inside the housing at WFO and a sharp curve coming up extremely fast. Exciting stuff. Anyhow, to my knowledge the cable game is as such: '70 & older B-bodies and all A-bodies should use the '69-'70 B-body cable. All E-bodies and '71-up B-bodies use the E-body cable, which also gets used on F/M/J-bodies. I can't speak to pickup trucks and I've never researched the C-bodies, although a few Six Pack freighters were built.
My own project is somewhat similar to yours. What would a factory 1974 340 Six Pack Challenger have looked like? I went full retard: T/A heads & intake, N94 (T/A) hood/air cleaner, quarter-panel antenna, and the other little T/A detail parts like valve covers and washer nozzles. I even found an NOS set of 1974 Michigan manufacturer license plates to complete the "prototype" look. I'm not using the T/A stripes or spoilers, though.
I ran a 440+6 '72 Charger around Atlanta for a couple of years. The car was my daily driver so I didn't have time to f__k around finding "correct" parts. I used the later 1-piece 440-4V kickdown I already had on the car, which I believe I grabbed from a cop car. I used the Direct Connection carbs on it (4782/4783) but I see no reason that would change anything. I did the swap in an afternoon and don't remember chasing parts or modifying anything to work. Obviously I needed the Six Pack throttle and coil brackets, but I got original Chrysler stuff from work before I started the swap... yeah, this was awhile back.
For a cable, you'll want the '69-'70 B-body cable, assuming the firewall attachment never changed on A-bodies. I absolutely had to swap the cable (another new OE part) because the 4V cable had a longer housing. It came out of the firewall at a sharp angle, almost a kink. I'd already learned--on that same car--what results from that: A frayed inner cable. Mine went full bird's-nest inside the housing at WFO and a sharp curve coming up extremely fast. Exciting stuff. Anyhow, to my knowledge the cable game is as such: '70 & older B-bodies and all A-bodies should use the '69-'70 B-body cable. All E-bodies and '71-up B-bodies use the E-body cable, which also gets used on F/M/J-bodies. I can't speak to pickup trucks and I've never researched the C-bodies, although a few Six Pack freighters were built.
My own project is somewhat similar to yours. What would a factory 1974 340 Six Pack Challenger have looked like? I went full retard: T/A heads & intake, N94 (T/A) hood/air cleaner, quarter-panel antenna, and the other little T/A detail parts like valve covers and washer nozzles. I even found an NOS set of 1974 Michigan manufacturer license plates to complete the "prototype" look. I'm not using the T/A stripes or spoilers, though.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
I bet the cops were PO'd when they found out someone had ripped off their throttle cable.
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