Front Drum brake troubles on a 1964 Dart

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schlockfink

schlockfink

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Hello I bought a 1964 Dart convertible where every time I hit the brakes after about 10 minutes on the highway it starts vibrating violently. The previous owner said that he had just got new drums for it. I think he sold the car because the new drum brakes were warped. Does anybody know a good place to buy good new or NOS drums? Any good brands? I read someplace that the newer drums aren't as thick and warp easily.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
-Paul
 
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schlockfink said:
Hello I bought a 1964 Dart convertible where every time I hit the brakes after about 10 minutes on the highway it starts vibrating violently. The previous owner said that he had just got new drums for it. I think he sold the car because the new drum brakes were warped. Does anybody know a good place to buy good new or NOS drums? I read someplace that the newer drums aren't as thick and warp easily.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
-Paul
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Maybe. Pull the drums and check they brake shoes. They maybe cracked
 
What's the best company that makes front drum brakes for a 1964 dart? 9inchers.
I need some good ones! The last new ones I bought seem like they're already warped.

Thanks,
Paul
 
schlockfink said:
Hello I bought a 1964 Dart convertible where every time I hit the brakes after about 10 minutes on the highway it starts vibrating violently. The previous owner said that he had just got new drums for it. I think he sold the car because the new drum brakes were warped. Does anybody know a good place to buy good new or NOS drums? I read someplace that the newer drums aren't as thick and warp easily.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
-Paul
Click to expand...
This is your second thread you have started about your brakes. You only need 1. Check around at machine shops, older car repair shops and parts stores and have the drums turned. If they are discolored and have been overheated you have other issues. By the way, Drum brakes and brake drums are 2 different things and pads are for disc brakes. Drum brakes have brake shoes not pads.
 
When you drove it, did the steering wheel shake or the whole car.
Next drive, gently pull on the hand brake in the release position, so you can relax the emergency immediately, feel for shake.
If it shakes then, it indicates the rear brakes bent
Steering wheel shake, front brakes bent.
It's not unusual for new drums to need "truing" on a brake lathe.
The rears may need it also depending on those test results.
Take drums-hubs to an automotive machine shop, imho
 
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shaking after using them and getting hot, or after 10min of just regular normal driving?

have you looked at anything on the car yet? have you had anybody else?

what's your level of mechanical skill? are you going to DIY this or are you just gathering info so when you roll to a mechanic you can say: "this is what they said on the internet"?
 
A mechanic has it now and is at his wits end on how to fix the front brakes from shaking after freeway driving for around 10 minutes. It seems to get worse the longer it's driven. My mechanical skills are pretty basic. This is the 3rd Dart I've owned, and I had disc brakes installed on my 63 wagon. That fixed the right pulling brakes. On My 66 I had the drum brakes completely redone, and they worked amazingly! So I figured maybe drums aren't so bad let's try drums again but now I'm thinking maybe time to buy another one of those disc kits.
 
schlockfink said:
A mechanic has it now and is at his wits end on how to fix the front brakes from shaking after freeway driving for around 10 minutes. It seems to get worse the longer it's driven. My mechanical skills are pretty basic. This is the 3rd Dart I've owned, and I had disc brakes installed on my 63 wagon. That fixed the right pulling brakes. On My 66 I had the drum brakes completely redone, and they worked amazingly! So I figured maybe drums aren't so bad let's try drums again but now I'm thinking maybe time to buy another one of those disc kits.
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It could be something as simple as the shoes installed on the wrong side. (Short shoe always in the front of each backing plate) You may need to find a different mechanic.
 
sorry for the abruptness, but i don't like to play the telephone game of internet to customer to mechanic.

the drum system is pretty basic and sussing out such a glaring problem should be fairly straight forward. it might take some money and a few swings and misses on parts, but that's a risk you have to be willing to take with old cars. if you mechanic isn't super knowledgeable with older iron, you both might be better served in taking the work elsewhere.

personally, i wouldn't spend a dime on drums and go straight to discs.
 
junkyardhero said:
sorry for the abruptness, but i don't like to play the telephone game of internet to customer to mechanic.

the drum system is pretty basic and sussing out such a glaring problem should be fairly straight forward. it might take some money and a few swings and misses on parts, but that's a risk you have to be willing to take with old cars. if you mechanic isn't super knowledgeable with older iron, you both might be better served in taking the work elsewhere.

personally, i wouldn't spend a dime on drums and go straight to discs.
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Yeah seems pretty straight forward except the drums these days aren't as heavy duty as the New Old Stock drums, they're light weight, out of round, they're warped straight from the chinese factory, and that's probably why people switch to disc these days. But with this ride I'd like to keep it stock with the 13 inch wheels and original hubcaps. I have discs on my 63 Dart wagon kustom and just want to try something stock for a change.
 
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schlockfink said:
Yeah seems pretty straight forward except the drums these days aren't as heavy duty as the New Old Stock drums, they're light weight, out of round, they're warped straight from the chinese factory, and that's probably why people switch to disc these days. But with this ride I'd like to keep it stock with the 13 inch wheels and original hubcaps. I have discs on my 63 Dart wagon kustom and just want to try something stock for a change.
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i feel you on that, and a change to the rims and tires is a serious cash outlay.

have you considered sourcing used drums and having them turned? they pop up frequently here (and in junkyards) for relatively cheap.

i'd start with making sure everything is absolutely to spec and installed correctly from the backing plates to the lug nuts.

has other work been performed on the brake system? sometimes a change of component can have detrimental effects on other parts of the system.
 
First thing to do is get you a factory service manual. They are free for download at mymopar.com or if they don't have one, go on ebay and get one. That's FACTORY CHRYSLER, not some Haynes, Chiltons or other hogwash.

1st. Lets get your terminology straightened out. Drum brakes have shoes, not pads. Remember that so we all know what you're talking about and will have a better chance of helping you help you. Using correct terminology avoids confusion.

2nd. Drum brakes are very, very simple. You don't just get out the check book. You need to do some actual diagnosis.

3rd If your "mechanic" is having trouble with drum brakes, find another one, or do it yourself. These cars are old school technology and you could literally train a chimp to work on them. There's zero excuse to take it to someone unless you are physically unable to do it. If you can turn a nut on a bolt with a wrench or ratchet, you can do anything to these old cars. All you need is the correct service manual and maybe some assistance from a certain online forum you found all by yourself.
 
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It sounds like the front drums are out of round, & gets worse as they get hotter.
Take the drums to a brake shop & they can check for out of round.
 
Bewy said:
It sounds like the front drums are out of round, & gets worse as they get hotter.
Take the drums to a brake shop & they can check for out of round.
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The contact area on the shoes should show the sign of an egg shaped drum.
 
schlockfink said:
Yeah seems pretty straight forward except the drums these days aren't as heavy duty as the New Old Stock drums, they're light weight, out of round, they're warped straight from the chinese factory, and that's probably why people switch to disc these days. But with this ride I'd like to keep it stock with the 13 inch wheels and original hubcaps. I have discs on my 63 Dart wagon kustom and just want to try something stock for a change.
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Same thing happened with Chinesium rotors years back, the castings are done quick & dirty, & aren't stress relieved. When they heat up, they change shape, You can't fix them....well You COULD, but the time to stress relieve them & re-machine them is more than just replacing them w/quality ones. There's also a chance the swap was done half-assed, putting uneven stress on the drum at the hub/studs, not sitting flush on the flange.
Next, look at the wear pattern on the shoes, even? Only on an edge? How's the machined surface appear? If it looks like You could drop a needle on it, & play it like a barrel phonograph, when the brakes warm up they may be pulling out 'til they angle & lose bite then snap back.
Last, are You certain it's not a rear drum transferring the pressure cycles to the rest of the system? I've seen all of these & more, make sure all wheel cyl. pistons are free, etc.
Good luck, & keep Us updated, peace!!
 
What centers the drum to the hub on these models? Does the drum flange fit into a machined recess on the hub......or does it rely on the bolts for centering.
 
Bewy said:
What centers the drum to the hub on these models? Does the drum flange fit into a machined recess on the hub......or does it rely on the bolts for centering.
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OE they are swaged/staked on the stud shoulders, but that ain't going to change cold to hot, out of whack is out of whack.
But, if the stud shoulders weren't cut down correctly, there may be stress/deformation where the wheel has them pinned against the flange.
 
Bewy said:
What centers the drum to the hub on these models? Does the drum flange fit into a machined recess on the hub......or does it rely on the bolts for centering.
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Drums on these cars are hub centric. That's why when you cut the swedges off, it does not matter that the drums have a little back and forth "slop" on the wheel studs, because they are centered on the hubs.
 
10 minutes of driving and the brakes are wonky… sounds like the shoes are dragging.
When cold how much effort does it take to turn the wheel when it’s jacked off the ground?
It should only have a slight drag when the shoes are adjusted properly and the drums are round .
 
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