Front end alignment at home

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LJ67barracuda340 said:
The tabs seam less that perfect but them and the top of the shock brackets were the only things left on my Canadian Fish once I got the inner fenders off. The car had only seen the winter from '67-'76. They had already been hack repaired once in the 70's. I got a surprise!!! I didn't know FABO yet to ask for a front clip so I had to rebuild the whole thing from scratch. I bought the car in '76 and figured scraping her wasn't an option.
Also I remove the dust cap, the cotter pin and nut lock. Slide on a large washer and another nut. Then the magnetic tool will go right over the nut to stick to the washer

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Scary looking, seen that even on southern cars.

A-bodies are weak that way, never had B-body issues like that down south.
 
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My car had weak support tabs since purchased in 84.If you feel those tabs were solid more power to you. Most importantly is the ecentric tabs, they round over easily. My support front Tabs for the ecentric were welded with long crappy sub standard straps and supported prior to purchase in the 80’s but until resto they were not really dealt with the right way. The rest of the main rail and arm structure was fine but the tabs and supporting structure were weakened, flexed out to much, so alignments just stressed the ecentric tabs even more. hard to get a correct alignment that would last. They will crack right at the rail line over time, regardless of any rust issues, especially with BB weight and hard use. So far it is holding up well, but can not imagine others have not had the same issue!
 
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I had to fab everything but the tabs. I used heavier that original gauge steel. Tabs were spot welded in, now welded in solid. Everything I could make bigger or more reinforced I did. Fingers crossed, and inspect every spring.

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Hello, reviving this thread, since I finally got back to learning alignment. So, everything is new, and I have a Longacre caster/camber gauge, with ebay turn plates.
The questions are;
Which is set first, caster, or camber?
When using turn plates, do I set camber with the turn plates locked, or with the pins pulled?
 
pins pulled to set anything even toe,,,you'll have to set caster and camber together because one will probably effect the other and you'll have to go back and forth. Get you're camber close and then go after caster. bounce the chassis after each change to settle it. also the rears should be at the same height as the fronts
 
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1.....Set ride height and jounce car to settle the suspension

2.....Set caster / camber together. Jim Lusk had a suggested procedure if I can find it............

3....Set toe, and as you set toe, check that steering wheel remains centered. You will have to "walk" the wheel left/ right with the tie rod sleeves

4....Drive car, recheck

Here:

Alignment notes:

from here:

Front end alignment help please ??

Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up.


Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0701_1968_plymouth_gtx_suspension/index.html
 
I guess here is as good a place to ask. With a complete RMS front suspension including Qa-1 coil overs, adjustable strut rods and Wilwood front disc brakes, is doing the front end alignment any harder to do it yourself? I talked to Bill at RMS and he gave me the settings I should use.
 
No...the cam bolts are still the same...and the tie rods adjust the same too
 
It's hard, because you have to make an investment in equipment. I have about $500 invested in turn plates, toe plates, and a digital caster/camber gauge. It's hard because you don't have a rack to work on. It's a lot of getting up, and down. going back, and forth checking things. I just got tired of paying for a bad job. Plus I have 3 classic cars, so it should save me in the long run.
 
furyus2 said:
It's hard, because you have to make an investment in equipment. I have about $500 invested in turn plates, toe plates, and a digital caster/camber gauge. It's hard because you don't have a rack to work on. It's a lot of getting up, and down. going back, and forth checking things. I just got tired of paying for a bad job. Plus I have 3 classic cars, so it should save me in the long run.
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So what are you saying? I should take it to your house?
 
furyus2 said:
It's hard, because you have to make an investment in equipment. I have about $500 invested in turn plates, toe plates, and a digital caster/camber gauge. It's hard because you don't have a rack to work on. It's a lot of getting up, and down. going back, and forth checking things. I just got tired of paying for a bad job. Plus I have 3 classic cars, so it should save me in the long run.
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I'm getting old and feeble, but I do have a car trailer. Loaded the car on the trailer, and jacked and blocked it level. PRESTO!!! alignment rack!!1
 
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