front end alignment

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That's easy to explain. A recirculating ball gearbox always tries to find center with the pump energized. So, if the toe is set so the wheel is off center to the left slightly, the car will have a slight pull to the right, as the box is trying to find center.

This does not usually happen if the wheel is slightly off center to the right, as the road crown fights against it and cancels it out.

This of course is only true as long as caster and camber are close to equal. This is why I always strived to get the wheel perfectly centered with the gearbox in the center of its travel. Just makes for a better job for the customer.

Talk about modern alignment equipment and older cars they are not very compatible as some have to be hung on all four tires and the equipment is to large for closed rear wheel wells. I had to find a shop that could hang their equipment on my Dart.

Last Friday morning I took my 66 Dart in for alignment at 8 am when they opened . I had just changed everything from the lower control arm up ( 73 Disc brake conversion ) .
Would you believe they already had 5 alignments ahead of me .
I talked to the tech and told him I wanted the maximun caster that could be dialed in and to tighten the upper cam nuts at ride height. I mentioned it had an ever so slight pull to the right and that the steering wheel was just a bit to the left of center.
When they finally got it done at 20 to 5 the pull was gone but the steering wheel was now slightly to the right of center. I hope he tightened the nuts at ride height.
 
If the tech did anything other then the alignment that was on the work order, or actually did go over it nut and bolt it would put them on the liability hook for your install. Right, wrong, or indifferent shops have to protect themselves as well. As a tech this gets drilled into you. Grease is part of the install process. It would be natural to assume it was done. My car needs a 60k, but I'm going to drop it off for an oil change and tell them to "check it out".
 
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As far as the alignment goes, they should be able to provide you a printout that verifies their work. Castor, camber, toe, SAI, and turn radius should all be on there.
 
I did my first alignment in 1976 and made a living at it until I was hurt on the job in 1999 and after that did consulting work for local dealerships and shops. So I know what it takes to get a good alignment.

I can align a car properly with a tape measure, level and angle gauge on any flat concrete or asphalt surface, so I think I got it covered.

I have tried to help with alignment problems on here before but gotten ignored, so I just backed off.

Since most all of my expertise is in everyday street driving with no road race experience, I am somewhat looked down on, so I just shut up.
I did my first alignment in 1976 and made a living at it until I was hurt on the job in 1999 and after that did consulting work for local dealerships and shops. So I know what it takes to get a good alignment.

I can align a car properly with a tape measure, level and angle gauge on any flat concrete or asphalt surface, so I think I got it covered.

I have tried to help with alignment problems on here before but gotten ignored, so I just backed off.

Since most all of my expertise is in everyday street driving with no road race experience, I am somewhat looked down on, so I just shut up.

Well maybe you need to go back to consulting because everyday someone is posting here about bad alinements .... GGs66GT just got his done and the steering wheel is off centre... who wants that.
 
Well maybe you need to go back to consulting because everyday someone is posting here about bad alinements .... GGs66GT just got his done and the steering wheel is off centre... who wants that.

Certainly no one, but if that is all that's wrong with the alignment, it won't cause any trouble as far as tire wear. It's not difficult to get the wheel in the center. Most shops are in too big a hurry to polish the details.
 
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