This is what I found. The lower control arm bushings were shot and the pins were now way off center. That probably is what caused the torsion bar adjusters to rub the frame and hang up on it, as it was suggested. The driver's side lower control arm ball joint knuckle was bent back. Both struts had a small bend in them. And the spindle AKA steering knuckle was a B body part not an A body part (from a previous disc brake/big bolt pattern hub conversion). The upper control arm bushings were not great either. I replaced everything, all the bushings, all the ball joints, both lower control arms, heavier torsion bars, both upper control arms, and put in A body spindles. I don't know, but I've been told that the disc brakes should be to the front of the spindle. Mine were in the back. I think all you have to do is reverse the spindles L-R side and R-L side. How does that affect the alignment? Positive or negative, caster or camber? When the drum brakes were there the sway bars at the ends of the lower control arms did not interfere on turns, but the larger disc calipers would hit, so they were relocated to the back? I've seen sway bars mounts on the LCAs in at least 4 different locations for A bodies. And A and E body LCAs are not interchangeable. One is shorter and has a different shock location among other things. With the disc in the back, it's closer to the brake line/flex line fitting. Anyway, all my new bushings are rubber and not eurethane. Am I having fun yet. The easiest way to separate the ball joints was to thread the castle nuts back on the ball joints and hammer them with the biggest MF hammer I have. Pressing in the lower control arm bushings was a test in enginuity and finding the biggest MF vise and sockets in the land. Now, I didn't mention taking all the parts out and unbolting the right side headers to get the right side lower control arm out. Everything got cleaned, painted (POR-15), and greased when reassembled and greased again. I eye balled the caster/camber and toe in and toe out enough to make it driveable. The caster/camber were marginal since the car is raised in the front to give more ground clearance for the headers and oil pan. Hey, I even got to rebuild my creeper wheels, I've spent so much time under that car. And, I've added a 6 foot piece of thick wall pipe to my tool collection (breaker bar extension), and several bushing tools, and a couple of torsion bar tools, too. I'll add pictures as soon as I can shrink them down, size wise. Thank you A body guys for all the advice and help. No one can say I don't love my car with all the weekends and evenings I've spent on her. I think I'll name her "JENNAY". Thank you Forrest.
