Front end rebuild....buy new or rebuild?

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Sdriche

Sdriche

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I have a 68 Dart with front drum brakes (4" pattern) which I'd like to keep. I wanted to replace the front A arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints and not sure if if its easier (or even possible) to replace with all new tubular or new a arms, etc. I'd like to get the offset bushing benefit and keep the drum brakes. Am i limited to rebuilding the original parts? I see 'big ball joint' vs 'small small joint' but not sure what impact that has. Thanks
 
I cannot name all the aftermarket a arms but the uppers are likely to be "big" ball joints for disk brakes. But if they did have the proper upper balls, the alignment range varies. Some of them are "set" with possibly additional caster built in, and some are more adjustable, IE with such as heim joints, which in my opinion, may or may not be a lasting answer "on the street."

You can rebuild them with such as home made pipe fittings and good grade 5 threaded rod for puller devices, a BFH or maybe a press.

The really big project is the lower A arm pivot bushings, but if you can torch/ get the rubber / inner sleeve out, you can even slice the lower shells and get them out
 
specifically because you're wanting to keep the stock 4" BP drums, i'd rebuild it stock.

problem solver upper bushings will likely give you more than enough castor in alignment.

disregard large ball joint parts for this project, to upgrade would mean changing out several other expensive and hard to find components-- to keep the 4" drums.

stay stock and keep it simple.

if your budget allows i'd upgrade t-bars, shocks and add a swaybar if you don't already have one.
 
If you're going to keep the stock brakes, I'd stay with the stock control arms too. Rebuilding them isn't all that bad if you have the proper tools. These days, buying the tools, even if you only use them once, is probably cheaper than paying to have it done. There are bushing and ball joint removal/installing tools available as a kit or individually. You mainly need an upper ball joint socket. A 1 3/8" tap would make the lower bushing shell easier to remove, but, if you're careful, and hack saw blade and small chisel works too. A press or good sized vice is needed for installing the new bushings.
 
Replacing the stock bushings is pretty easy if you have access to a press or good vice. Check out the current edition of Mopar Action (Should be on the internet too) for lower control arm pivot bushing removal & installation. I just did this on a set from a car I have with 4" B.C.
It works like a charm & won't do any damage to the control arm. The stock/factory stuff is fine for a mild street car.
 
there are direct replacement tubular upper control arms that use the original small ball joints that are made to do more than offset bushings can and allow correct alignment for modern tires. Call Firm Feel inc to discuss what is available.
 
str12-340 said:
there are direct replacement tubular upper control arms that use the original small ball joints that are made to do more than offset bushings can and allow correct alignment for modern tires. Call Firm Feel inc to discuss what is available.
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This is exactly what i was looking for!! Thanks
 
I'm rebuilding my suspension over the winter and swapping to discs up front. in '73 they redesigned the front suspension to use the big ball joint for all configurations. my duster has 5x4 bolt pattern, the bigger ball joints, and 10" finned drums up front. with that redesign I think it pushed the track width wider, like the '73 up disc brake cars. here's mine

1699381317926.jpeg
 
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I rebuilt my '67 sbp KH disc/sway bar suspension with stock parts, ok.
Years later did it over with sbp QA1/Proforged parts, tracked/handled better than stock with the sway bar.
Added new 16.1 box, more better.
If I had to do it over, I would skip the stock rebuild.
 
michiganpat said:
I'm rebuilding my suspension over the winter and swapping to discs up front. in '73 they redesigned the front suspension to use the big ball joint for all configurations. my duster has 5x4 bolt pattern, the bigger ball joints, and 10" finned drums up front. with that redesign I think it pushed the track width wider, like the '73 up disc brake cars. here's mine

View attachment 1716163538
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On all but the small bolt pattern 4 wheel drums that retained the 9" drums. They were small ball joint right up until 1976.
 
You're both incorrect. The large ball joint started (in A-bodies) in 1973 regardless of which brakes you got. Also, early '73 still had 9" drum brakes as an option......usually standard equipment on a low line slant 6 2dr w/o A/C.
 
cudamark said:
You're both incorrect. The large ball joint started (in A-bodies) in 1973 regardless of which brakes you got. Also, early '73 still had 9" drum brakes as an option......usually standard equipment on a low line slant 6 2dr w/o A/C.
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so '73 had 9" drums in front and the large UBJ? huh, learn something new every day...
 
Just the first few months of the '73 model year. I believe it was Aug-Dec of 1972 build date. I had two of those cars. It was a surprise to me too. The spindles were the same as the 10" brakes, and used the same bearings. Like I mentioned, they were bare bones models.....manual steering, manual brakes, rubber floor mats, 198 engine, 904 column shift.
 
The A body used the small bolt pattern clear through to 1976. What size brakes did they get?
 
cudamark said:
If you're going to keep the stock brakes, I'd stay with the stock control arms too. Rebuilding them isn't all that bad if you have the proper tools. These days, buying the tools, even if you only use them once, is probably cheaper than paying to have it done. There are bushing and ball joint removal/installing tools available as a kit or individually. You mainly need an upper ball joint socket. A 1 3/8" tap would make the lower bushing shell easier to remove, but, if you're careful, and hack saw blade and small chisel works too. A press or good sized vice is needed for installing the new bushings.
Click to expand...
Not to interrup but who sells the tools for removing and installing the bushings I have a 73 340 Duster I want to do that. Thanks John B.
 
The kit I have (AM23000A) is made by American Muscle. Got it years ago, so, not sure if it's still available or not.
 
Pick up a current Mopar Action, there’s some tips with pics on front end rebuild.
Where is Garnet Valley ?
 
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