What are problem solver bushings? Should I be using those? I just got a stock rebuild from ESPO. Are the hotchkiss shocks worth it if I’m sticking with.87 T bars for now?specifically because you're wanting to keep the stock 4" BP drums, i'd rebuild it stock.
problem solver upper bushings will likely give you more than enough castor in alignment.
disregard large ball joint parts for this project, to upgrade would mean changing out several other expensive and hard to find components-- to keep the 4" drums.
stay stock and keep it simple.
if your budget allows i'd upgrade t-bars, shocks and add a swaybar if you don't already have one.
Mancini racing.Not to interrup but who sells the tools for removing and installing the bushings I have a 73 340 Duster I want to do that. Thanks John B.
moog K7103, it's an offset bushing that enables more caster with the factory parts. i consider them to be essential when rebuilding front suspension. highly recommend them.What are problem solver bushings? Should I be using those? I just got a stock rebuild from ESPO. Are the hotchkiss shocks worth it if I’m sticking with.87 T bars for now?
Not exactly true. They can be oriented many ways, depending on WHAT you're doing. But to increase caster, they should be oriented with the bolt hole in the FRONT bushings facing closest to the frame and with the holes in the REAR bushings facing closest to the ball joint. In this way, you're effectively lengthening the FRONT of the control arm and shortening the REAR, thereby increasing the caster angle. You are shifting the upper ball joint BACK towards the rear of the car. They can also be installed to increase or decrease camber as well.BE CAREFUL TO VERY CAREFULLY FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR OFFSET BUSHINGS!!! THEY CAN ONLY BE ORIENTED ONE WAY AND ANY DEVIATION WILL BE COUNTER PRODUCTIVE.
ma mopar used the same bushing from 62~76 across a BUNCH of different body platforms and models.Thank you. I’ll order those. K7103 seems like it’s for B-body.
This seems backwards in my mind. If the the bolt hole in the front is nearer to the frame, wouldn't this be effectively shorting the Front of the control arm and if the hole in the rear is closer to the ball joint would this be lengthenging the Rear?Not exactly true. They can be oriented many ways, depending on WHAT you're doing. But to increase caster, they should be oriented with the bolt hole in the FRONT bushings facing closest to the frame and with the holes in the REAR bushings facing closest to the ball joint. In this way, you're effectively lengthening the FRONT of the control arm and shortening the REAR, thereby increasing the caster angle. You are shifting the upper ball joint BACK towards the rear of the car. They can also be installed to increase or decrease camber as well.
This seems backwards in my mind. If the the bolt hole in the front is nearer to the frame, wouldn't this be effectively shorting the Front of the control arm and if the hole in the rear is closer to the ball joint would this
Nope.This seems backwards in my mind. If the the bolt hole in the front is nearer to the frame, wouldn't this be effectively shorting the Front of the control arm and if the hole in the rear is closer to the ball joint would this be lengthenging the Rear?
Yeah. I got once I had it in my hands. Another question: I messed up the install a bit. The arrow was not 90 degrees to the control arm. My mom lives across the street from me (yes, like everybody loves Raymond) and she came over and distracted me. Anyway, can I remove the new bushing, turn it a bit and re-install it? Or are they a one use deal?Nope.
I don't know. Can you? lol You can if you're really careful. I'm not understanding "90 degrees to the control arm". Can you expound on that some?Yeah. I got once I had it in my hands. Another question: I messed up the install a bit. The arrow was not 90 degrees to the control arm. My mom lives across the street from me (yes, like everybody loves Raymond) and she came over and distracted me. Anyway, can I remove the new bushing, turn it a bit and re-install it? Or are they a one use deal?
Ha! I needed some of your words….wobbly bobbly, lumps on dicks, wonky donkey….it was just off kilter…. I don’t knowi get what you're laying down.
yeah you can R&R the bushing if you're careful. but if it looks sus when you get it all back together save yourself the headache and time and frustration of having to do the whole job again and just order a new one.
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speaking of alignments... do you do alignments on these cars? You are in Southern California, no?if you mess up the weebles it'll have too much wobble when it all goes together. then it's all bobbly and things get round and brown in a hurry, and that ain't good for nobody.
then you spend your money twice on another alignment and you're back to drinking parking lot bloody mary's and eating at the bad taco truck cuz it's cheaper but it gives you the chorro something vicious. but if you're lucky you caught it before you needed new tires, or at least one tire, so you'll have that going for you.
i am in LA, but i don't do alignments. i'm sure there's somebody out in your neck of the woods, but if you get jammed up and need a guy i've got one here in the SFV.speaking of alignments... do you do alignments on these cars? You are in Southern California, no?
oh yes they did. My Dad had a 76 Feather duster, had 9" drum brakes all the way around. and 4" bolt pattern. manual brakes to boot, no power booster. /6, 3 speed on the floor, manual steering even.99.999% sure they didn't offer 9" front drums after 1972....
SFV? I have teeth... and I'm not homeless. Can I go there??i am in LA, but i don't do alignments. i'm sure there's somebody out in your neck of the woods, but if you get jammed up and need a guy i've got one here in the SFV.