Front end shake

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BWDart

BWDart

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Came off the freeway today and when I hit the brakes the rt front started shaking real bad. I'm just waiting for the temp to get below 100 so I can check it out, what should I look for? strut rods? lca? ball joints?
72 Dart, 318 car, all new poly front end 3 years ago. I also noticed some vibration that just started at about 75 coming from the rt side, felt like a tire but they are new. It is pulling to that side also.
Bruce
 
Brakes are sticking, wheel cylinder/caliper seized = warped drum/rotor.

Off the top of my head.

All the best.
 
BWDart said:
I also noticed some vibration that just started at about 75 coming from the rt side, felt like a tire but they are new. It is pulling to that side also.
Bruce
Click to expand...


Just a thought. I know you said the tires are new, but a tire can separate without warning. Check for a bubble in the right front tire. Run your hand over the tread of the tire and feel for any raised area.

You don't mention if your front brakes are drum or disc?
 
Thanks for the input guys.
It's a disc brake car. The shake is like the whole suspension on that side shaking like something is loose, not like a brake rotor, checked it out this morning and nothing obvious that I can see. Took the weight off the spindle and the b-joints don't move, all bolts are tight. I have noticed when backing up and then going forward that side is clunking like something is moving. Strut rod bushings? I'm taking it to the alignment shop this week.
Thanks again
Bruce
 
Swap the wheels to the opposite side and go test it again. --after you get the clunk checked out--, to check for tires balance/outaround.
With everything else being tight, there might be a little play in the steering box that will alow a small shimmy to be amplified.
My disks shake like that once in a while, after I have driven quite a few miles, but never after a short 5-10mile drive. I believe the (Chinese)rotors warp from a heat buildup from friction from the pads continuosly riding on the rotors.
 
Happened to me too with a shot idler arm. Replaced it with a Moog :love7:

Sounds more like a warped rotor.

I would get that thing off the road and get it jacked up ASAP. If it is an idler arm you should be able to wiggle the tire by simply jacking it up and wiggling the tire.

Also, don't drive too long on a shot idler arm. I did so when I first got the car and didn't think about fixing the shake right away. It ended up warping my spindle slightly and I couldn't keep wheel bearings in it for the life of me.
After that I did the 73 disc conversion, but I will never be that neglectful again.
 
charger70 said:
Swap the wheels to the opposite side and go test it again. --after you get the clunk checked out--, to check for tires balance/outaround.
Click to expand...

If you swap the front tires from side to side, you can also tell if you have a belt separation on the tires. Had it happen on an 86 Daytona with Dunlop SP4s. If the car pulls to the opposite side after the swap, the front tires are part of the problem.

When I was running a lot of positive caster and negative camber, it caused the car to "hunt" under heavy braking. Checked with some SCCA types who said they had similar experiences with similar setups. The setup puts more stress on the joints and bushings.
 
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