Front Hub Bearing

[DentalDart]

Quick question.

I got new front brakes from DrDiff.

Comes with bearings, is the race already in the hub, and I just have to drop the bearing portion in?

Yes- I will coat in grease.

 

[dadsbee]

Do not throw that new cone in on the old cup. Knock both cups out and install both new sets.

And hand pack the bearing.. not coat. FSM also tells you to fill the spindle cavity with grease, but I won't start that argument here! Lol

 

[DentalDart]

Do not throw that new cone in on the old cup. Knock both cups out and install both new sets.

And hand pack the bearing.. not coat. FSM also tells you to fill the spindle cavity with grease, but I won't start that argument here! Lol

Don’t just throw the bearing in the hub as is? Know the old cups/races out? Are they not the same?

 

[toolmanmike]

Don’t just throw the bearing in the hub as is? Know the old cups/races out? Are they not the same?

The bearings and races packaged together should be used together like a matched set. . Suit yourself.

 

[DentalDart]

Ok. I’ll use them together.

What tool used to put the new race in the hub?

 

[toolmanmike]

Ok. I’ll use them together.

What tool used to put the new race in the hub?

The proper tool is a bearing race and seal driver. Tapered cones and a driver handle you tap with a hammer. You will need a punch and a hammer to get them out and you can tap them in with the same. Be very careful as not to slip the punch off the edge and scar the race. May be you need help. This could be a disaster for you.

 

[DentalDart]

The proper tool is a bearing race and seal driver. Tapered cones and a driver handle you tap with a hammer. You will need a punch and a hammer to get them out and you can tap them in with the same. Be very careful as not to slip the punch off the edge and scar the race. May be you need help. This could be a disaster for you.

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you.

Pretty soon I’ll be “ToolmanJustin.”

I was about to buy some stuff at Lowe’s to get it out but autozone in the parking lot had this little doohickey for sale to get the job done.

 

[toolmanmike]

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you.

Pretty soon I’ll be “ToolmanJustin.”

I was about to buy some stuff at Lowe’s to get it out but autozone in the parking lot had this little doohickey for sale to get the job done.

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That is perfect. Grab the right size, turn it over to the flat side and drive seals in. Works well. I bet I sold a hundred of those since they came out.

 

[DentalDart]

In case anyone is wondering…. The race in the hub for the bigger inner bearing is the same as the one supplied with the DrDiff kit…

All that commotion for this little bitty races, I wonder how much of a difference it actually makes.

Like real world vs lab testing… kind of like a lot of dentistry… real world dentistry and what works/what works better vs what some dentist in a white lab coat say works best but has never actually worked on a pt before… ya know when ya can’t do you teach… lol (no offense to any teachers)….

 

[mopowers]

It's probably best practice to use new races with the new cones, but I'm sure millions of miles have been run on new cones with old races. I know I'm guilty of it. Hell, I think that's what I did for the bearings on my '68 that are currently on it.

 

[toolmanmike]

In case anyone is wondering…. The race in the hub for the bigger inner bearing is the same as the one supplied with the DrDiff kit…

All that commotion for this little bitty races, I wonder how much of a difference it actually makes.

Like real world vs lab testing… kind of like a lot of dentistry… real world dentistry and what works/what works better vs what some dentist in a white lab coat say works best but has never actually worked on a pt before… ya know when ya can’t do you teach… lol (no offense to any teachers)….

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Dang, a press. even better.

 

[DentalDart]

It's probably best practice to use new races with the new cones, but I'm sure millions of miles have been run on new cones with old races. I know I'm guilty of it. Hell, I think that's what I did for the bearings on my '68 that are currently on it.

I think that’s what I did with my purple car as well… it gets driven 2-4x a week

 

[RustyRatRod]

Ok. I’ll use them together.

What tool used to put the new race in the hub?

I use a long brass punch. Very simple installation.

 

[RustyRatRod]

In case anyone is wondering…. The race in the hub for the bigger inner bearing is the same as the one supplied with the DrDiff kit…

All that commotion for this little bitty races, I wonder how much of a difference it actually makes.

Like real world vs lab testing… kind of like a lot of dentistry… real world dentistry and what works/what works better vs what some dentist in a white lab coat say works best but has never actually worked on a pt before… ya know when ya can’t do you teach… lol (no offense to any teachers)….

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That works well too.....but by the time I set all that up, I'm done on the floor with a hammer and a brass punch.

 

[dadsbee]

Matched sets are the way to go. If you trust that even the same Timken part# is the exact same angle as the old one made 20 years ago, let alone an offshore derivative... you should buy a lottery ticket!

 

[CFD244]

Brand new races in brand new hubs.......I wouldn't hesitate just to use the bearings from the box. A used race......Not a chance.

Love the claw hammer by the way

P.S. Ask Dr. Diff what he recommends.

 

[DentalDart]

That works well too.....but by the time I set all that up, I'm done on the floor with a hammer and a brass punch.

Yeah it got off center for a second on 2 of them and I whacked it with a 10lb sledgehammer and in it went.

A brass punch, I’ll have to look for one.

The hardest part was getting the larger race out without the punch, the hammer and flathead screw driver kind of sucked. Lots of wacking.

 

[DentalDart]

Brand new races in brand new hubs.......I wouldn't hesitate just to use the bearings from the box. A used race......Not a chance.

Love the claw hammer by the way

P.S. Ask Dr. Diff what he recommends.

Everything was brand new, nothing used…

 

[DentalDart]

Matched sets are the way to go. If you trust that even the same Timken part# is the exact same angle as the old one made 20 years ago, let alone an offshore derivative... you should buy a lottery ticket!

Edited for sounding like a jerk.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah it got off center for a second on 2 of them and I whacked it with a 10lb sledgehammer and in it went.

A brass punch, I’ll have to look for one.

The hardest part was getting the larger race out without the punch, the hammer and flathead screw driver kind of sucked. Lots of wacking.

There's "usually" a recessed area in the hub itself around the diameter of where the race installs in the inside that allows you to get something on the race and drive it out. I've thought about getting a driver set, but I've just never done it.

 

[DentalDart]

It’s all done now. I only scratched the inner portion of the hub while driving out the old race a couple of times. No big deal though. I’m sure it will roll pretty somewhat straight…

Thanks everyone for the help, suggestions and moral support.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Nice, clean work!

 

[72bluNblu]

Everything was brand new, nothing used…

Yeah, I would have just installed the new bearings with the new races that were already in the hubs. And I have. Lots. Especially since all the parts came from DoctorDiff. Nice of you to confirm that the races in the hubs were the same parts as he supplies though!

And I'd only do that with new bearings and new races. I've certainly done what you just did and removed brand new races out of hubs and installed the races that came with the bearings. Nowadays I just put the new bearing in the new race, confirm that they fit together well, and then grease and install them. I wouldn't ever put new bearings in old races, unless it was some kind of short term "get it on the road for today" kind of deal. Although I don't even like to do that anymore though because those short term fixes have a way of going long term...

 

[dadsbee]

I mean… there definitely are tolerances built into these parts… they are roller bearings as well, so not meant to be seated tight, but in enough to roll.

I understand what you’re saying, but if you truly believe some of this it’s made better now than 20 years ago, or that a stamp and die has really changed much… you should be buying the lottery ticket lol

Only thing different now is the Chinese kid pressing the race in the hub…

Nowhere did I say today's stuff is better than 20 years ago. I'll just browse on by next time...

 

[DentalDart]

Nowhere did I say today's stuff is better than 20 years ago. I'll just browse on by next time...

That came out a little wrong, my apologies. I was trying to give you a hard time, I have edited my post.