front spindle nut torque

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Joe Dz

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Hey guys,

I just finished rebuilding the front brakes on a 64 dart with 9" drums all the way around. After I put the drum back on I put the wheel bearing, washer, nut and cotter pin on the spindle. Any idea what the torque is for the nut? I don't want to over tighten it or anything.

Thanks.
 
I know there's a torque spec that you can use, and then back of a certain amount? I honestly learned by feel. Snug up the nut while rotating the wheel and then back it off enough to allow a small amount of clearance. Sorry I can't give you a specific number, it's just the way I've always done it.
 
I always take an adjustable wrench or channel locks and spin the drum in counter clockwise while tightening. Get it real good and tight once to seat the bearings, enough to stop the drum from spinning. Continue spinning the drum while you back the nut off two turns and then torque it just past tight or untill you start to feel a little rolling resistance on the drum.

When you finish, put the wheel on and torque the lugnuts, grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle it, if there is play, the spindle nut is too loose. BTW if you have stamped steel rims or any rim that will give hub access without removing the wheel, tighten the spindle nut with the wheel on the car to make life easy.
 
Tapered roller bearings need preload. You need to tighten the nut with the tire and wheel on while turning and pounding on the sidewall at the same time. This will act to seat the bearings. Continue to tighten the nut until you can see and feel a noticable drag on the wheel. Do NOT back the nut off. This is incorrect procedure. You need to tighten to the next available slot and put the cotter pin in. Without preload a tapered roller bearing will not bear its load properly.
 
This is right in the shop manual under wheels and bearings. I've posted this about 6 times in the last month

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=233102

A quote:

According to my 67 book, you install all the parts, and WHILE TURNING THE TIRE or brake drum, you tighten the nut to 70 inch pounds Then you install the castle over the nut, such that one slot is lined up with the cotter-key hole in the spindle. Then you back the nut off so that the castle rotates back ONE slot.

I do this slightly different, I like to "snug" the bearing up FIRST just to be sure that everything is "in" and then back off and retighten to the lighter torque. It is IMPORTANT not to either over or under tighten these bearings.
 
Thanks guys! I just found it in the service manual. I knew it had to be in there somewhere.
 
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