Front suspension suggestions for better tracking

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Looks like you have the usual good guys helpin you out, but my advice would be to find another alignment shop. I don't care how good they "seem" to be, if they cannot get any more than 3.5 degrees positive caster and you HAVE aftermarket adjustable control arms like you say, then they're doin it wrong.

Whether or not that's your wandering issue, I don't know. I can tell you the two biggest contributors to wandering is not enough caster and not enough toe, with incorrect camber setting coming in a close third. As long as camber is "close", with radial tires, it should not have a huge effect because the radial tires tread footprint stays on the road for a much longer radius through camber travel than the old bias ply tires did. Now, as for handling, camber differences can be pretty big. Refer to the skosh chart to see what type of driving you do and match that up with the figures on the chart.
 
How does the car sit? If it has a rake (rear end jacked up) you will loose caster. The closer to zero degrees you are the more it wants to wander.
 
toolmanmike said:
How does the car sit? If it has a rake (rear end jacked up) you will loose caster. The closer to zero degrees you are the more it wants to wander.
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It sits pretty level. I have super stock springs on the rear and 1' lowering block.
 
How about toe numbers for the front. Rather, can you post the alignment sheet in its entirety. My car wandered when my toe settings were off.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Looks like you have the usual good guys helpin you out, but my advice would be to find another alignment shop. I don't care how good they "seem" to be, if they cannot get any more than 3.5 degrees positive caster and you HAVE aftermarket adjustable control arms like you say, then they're doin it wrong.

Whether or not that's your wandering issue, I don't know. I can tell you the two biggest contributors to wandering is not enough caster and not enough toe, with incorrect camber setting coming in a close third. As long as camber is "close", with radial tires, it should not have a huge effect because the radial tires tread footprint stays on the road for a much longer radius through camber travel than the old bias ply tires did. Now, as for handling, camber differences can be pretty big. Refer to the skosh chart to see what type of driving you do and match that up with the figures on the chart.
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I'll have to ask him why he could not get more caster. It could be due to tire clearance. They had to shave a bit off the front fender so the rear of the tire would clear during a hard left hand turn.
 
Kent mosby said:
How about toe numbers for the front. Rather, can you post the alignment sheet in its entirety. My car wandered when my toe settings were off.
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I'll see if I can pick up the sheet from them tomorrow. The car is going back into the shop for a pinion gear depth adjustment. The numbers I posted about the rear wheels were from a previous alignment.
 
jcolman said:
I think he said it was under the spindle nut.
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It may have the wrong spindles or the wrong bearings. If the bearings are loose on the spindle the car will move all over the place.

Fun fact, 70-72 B/E bodies use spindles that look just like 73+ disk spindles. But they use a smaller inner wheel bearing. Those spindles with 73+ rotors and wheel bearings can cause the “not tightening” issue with the spindle nut. But a washer can’t make up for the inner bearing being too big for the spindle.
 
The rear axle is bent some if its toed out that much in the rear , not helping you much , also some tires are more horrible at traming than others.
 
What is your tread design? If the treads are straight cut the tires WILL grab the rain cuts in the road and wander. I am looking forward to changing the OEM tires on my 2020 Elantra. They are NOT low profile. Lowest profile tires I ever had were the 18's on my old 2004 BMW 330Ci convertible with sport suspension. That car never wandered...
 
Jim Lusk said:
What is your tread design? If the treads are straight cut the tires WILL grab the rain cuts in the road and wander. I am looking forward to changing the OEM tires on my 2020 Elantra. They are NOT low profile. Lowest profile tires I ever had were the 18's on my old 2004 BMW 330Ci convertible with sport suspension. That car never wandered...
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Best photo I have at the moment

qxZN631.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Looks like you have the usual good guys helpin you out, but my advice would be to find another alignment shop. I don't care how good they "seem" to be, if they cannot get any more than 3.5 degrees positive caster and you HAVE aftermarket adjustable control arms like you say, then they're doin it wrong.

Whether or not that's your wandering issue, I don't know. I can tell you the two biggest contributors to wandering is not enough caster and not enough toe, with incorrect camber setting coming in a close third. As long as camber is "close", with radial tires, it should not have a huge effect because the radial tires tread footprint stays on the road for a much longer radius through camber travel than the old bias ply tires did. Now, as for handling, camber differences can be pretty big. Refer to the skosh chart to see what type of driving you do and match that up with the figures on the chart.
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I was wrong about the upper control arms....I thought they were adjustable but they are the standard tubular QA1 uppers. I hadn't looked at them close enough.
 
That tread design will probably wander on the rain grooves...too many straight lines.
 
jcolman said:
Once again I turn to the wisdom of you guys with years of experience.

I finally have my car *almost* the way I want it. I swapped out the auto for a Tremec TKX 5 speed, I have a new rear end with a powr-lock differential and Hotchkiss subframe connectors. Previously, I had added Borgeson power steering. The car handles really well now but the tracking could be better. My shop gave me as much positve caster as they could, about 3.5 degrees.
What would be the next step to help improve drivability? I have Q1A adjustable upper A arms but the rest of my front suspension is stock. Stock torsion bars, stock anti-sway bar, poly bushings, good shocks.

Would adjustable strut rods be my next step to help increase caster?
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Try changing the idler arm
 
Little bumps can make it wander if the idler arm is even a little bit loose or worn. Yes if the toe is "out" it will turn at speed like no ones business...but will wander going straight/track bad.. toe "in" will make it track nicer but cause a tittle built of oversteer.
I used to do alignments for Goodyear Express Tire at one point before the machine shop
 
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