Is anyone looking to put a tubular k fame in with rack and pinion? I have a enexpensive, very nice alternative.You can use all of the original suspension parts, but I suggest at least upgrading to coilovers. I'm in the process of starting to fabricate lower control arms and pick up where dillinger chassis left off.
front suspension
- Thread starter 440 dart.
- Start date
-
junior636
Well-Known Member
Looks like a QA1 k frame?
junior636
Well-Known Member
Well, how about you give us some details then.... Maybe even some better pics?
Really it's pretty stock, factory location for lca pin, only the sleeve is turned on a lathe to exact inside diameter, and beveled inside, strut rod mount is in factory location as well I don't have really anymore pictures that will show more, when I built it I had no plans to build more, but I was talked into building a couple more here in the next few weeks for a couple local guys who want to put bb in their a bodies, for the record I used cheap hedman e body headers, and they cleared great, as well as a b body milodon oil pan, tons of clearance. I'll post more pictures
Here's some pictures. Also built some stainless megaphones, 3 Inch inlet 4.25 outlet, 30 degree angle, also that was the motor before I coated the headers and dropped it in, and the one on my bench was a prototype, everything is laser cut on the one I put in my car
I,m sure there will be interest in them after Some R & D and proof they work. Of course the price and available options play a big part also.
junior636
Well-Known Member
Looks good, I've wanted to build one but i can't put a rack in that position because i have my motor set low. I have a thread in here on lower control arms I'm building that work with factory k member. I would suggest a tubing bender, looks like that front tube is kinked?
Are you not afraid of the weak spot in the rear between the LCA pivots since they are not connected? I think I would be.
Ya, it is, that one was built just to see if it would clear everything ok, once I figured everything out, I had my neighbor, who builds race car chassis, bend my front bar, then lasered the rest of the parts where I work, I would love to get some tubular lca in order to get rid of the strut rods.
torkflight
Well-Known Member
looks weak, that 1.625" tube is not enough to keep everything from pulling and twisting, the motor is being used as the connection from side to side towards the rear of that k-frame, I believe the block would see a lot of stress in a high horsepower situation, also what is going to keep those lower control arms from working their way off the mounting pins without the torsion bars on there? lets see some pics of the tie rod ends where they mount to the spindles, how is the bump steer?
As far as a high hp situation, it could put some stress on the block, especially if it's a solid mother mount, this frame wasn't intended for race or high hp, but currently working thinking about figuring out how to make a better one, and I'm only running about 500 hp, with factory rubber mounts, the frame has also been beefed, my particular car doesn't have any weakness, it has front down tube as well as a cage, however a bone stock car with no frame connectors, etc could cause problems since those cars are so weak even completely restored. With those bushings as tight of a press fit as they are, they will not work loose, but you would want to put new bushings in. I don't really care for the design, that's why I'd like to get something similar to a mustang lca. Car handles amazing, all you do is swap spindles, driver with passenger, so everything is up front, then just bolt on your tie rod ends.
ube
Active Member
Following
MidTexCuda
Ancient Member
Pics of the spindles and how the rack is attached it is what will make this idea a reality.
Thanks, I'm now making fully adjustable lca, just like some uca's offer, and changing the motor mounts to offer more room, I'll keep things updated
Woods74
Broke Senior
What's wrong with the stock? I pumped down the PS; couldn't happier.
Spun Bearing
Lost in Space
You cannot swap stock spindles side-to-side and retain any semblance of safe handling!
It's been tried many times and I'd love to see somebody make it work but your ackerman and bumpsteer geometry
will be so far out of whack that it will probably hurt someone.
What happens when you drive at 60+ mph down an undulating country road with even gentle rises and falls in it?
What happens when you try to back up in a sweeping turn at near full lock?
Besides the inherit strength in the mechanical assembly, these are the concerns that must be answered.
Really this again? I've been swapping spindles for years on many cars and have been 6.04 in the 1/8 with no problems.
Spun Bearing
Lost in Space
Ha! Sure. Precisely my point. You can drive a short distance in a straight line on a pool table smooth surface with no problems. Even Sox & Martin used to build their drag cars this way. But you cannot make a regular street car work properly by swapping stock spindles. If you want this type of setup for your drag car go ahead. Using it anywhere else is dangerous.
Oh really? So I guess I should stop driving my 69 Dart that has been done this way for 9 years? Enough said from me about this. This argument has been going on since Moby Dick was a minnow.
Umm, sorry, but you're 100% incorrect.
The spindles on our mopars are identical when swapped side for side except for the location of the calipers. SAI, ackerman, whatever you want to throw in there. Exactly the same.
In fact, I run my cars with both configurations. Challenger has the calipers to the front, Duster has the calipers to the rear. Alignment numbers on both cars are almost identical, and both are using the 73+ F/M/J spindles. For the astute this is the old set of rims on my Challenger.
-
